Gutted it! (ON topic)

Well, I gave the Flxible refurb a rest for today, and got into a Studebaker.

I dragged a '58 Silver Hawk shell up from the lower 40 , and commenced to strip it to the tin. This is the "half-a-Hawk" I bought a few years ago at the McDonald auction in Yakima, WA.

So far, I have removed: seats, seat belts (they were GM, and fastened to the floor with stainless steel bolts, YAY!), floor mat debris, headliner, windlace, windshield, back window, quarter windows, vent windows, heater core, dashboard, and exterior chrome moldings. Front clip was off when I got it, as was the trunk lid.

Weird things I've found so far: a 1957 FDR silver dime under the floor mat, two

2-holer speed nuts at the left end of the dashboard, where one would have done, and rear window rubber so crisp, I had to chip it out with a putty knife. Funny, the windshield rubber is still quite supple; a little foot pressure, and the glass popped right out. It was already cracked. :>(

Most of the soft trim was hard, crisp, and totally toast. Strangely, the black vinyl dash pad is only a bit dull, and is still soft. A little Armor-All should bring it back.

Floors are bad, more so on the right, where weather beat in through missing side windows, but the area where the A pillar meets the batwing crossmember appears to be OK, so mending the floors won't be a huge task. Rocker panels, rear quarters, "A" pillars, and trunk floor are RUST-FREE. Doors good, too. Other than some minor dents, the body is very straight.

Here's the plan: this car is going to get resurrected as a '53 C-body. I have a set of good '53 doors, they go on it next work session, ditto the trunk lid. The fins will come off, and the un-needed trim holes in the quarters will get filled. I have a '53 hood, and some of the front clip pieces, but the hood is welded to a pair of rotten '53 fenders. I'll try and cut the welds, and see if I can salvage the hood.

I have a pair of mostly non-rusty Hawk front fenders I can use. How much different are the Hawk inner fenders from the '53 - '54 style. Will they work as-is, or are they incompatible with the '53 hood and front sheet metal? If incompatible, can they be massaged to work, or are the differences so profound that getting '53 inner fenders is the only rational solution?

What about the rear valance panels? Same, or different like the bumpers?

In a week or so, I plan to hand this car off to a pro autobody man for prep and paint. If I can't get the necessary front end parts by then, he can still do the body shell, doors and rear quarters. Since the car will be painted in completely-stripped condition, a color change to some form of resale red won't be hard to do.

When I get the body back painted, it will get a new headliner, windshield, and back glass, and the quarter windows will go back in it. Then I can either store it (indoors!) or finish it, or sell it as a project. I have a hotrodded 259 with an overdrive tranny that would be real happy in this car. I may well wind up duplicating a C-coupe I had in my teens; a '54 Champion equipped with a 259, overdrive, and 3.31 gears, only with better quality parts, hopefully. Actually, I doubt I'd use 3.31s with OD; 3.73s would be a lot better. That '54 also had a Hawk dash, and of course, that feature I'll retain.

Next work session will entail pressure-washing everything I can get to, to remove rust, dirt, mouse crap, and St. Helens ash. Then sandblast any rusty areas so the body guy can do his thing. Hang the coupe doors and trunk lid, after sandblasting any rust on them. I'll try to get enough of the floor repair done, that the remainder can be done without affecting the new paint job.

I'll have to make a shopping list for South Bend....

Gord Richmond

Reply to
Gordon Richmond
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You will learn that the front of any non '53/'54 fenders (inner panels) are extremely different at the front (radiator mounting panels attachments). Changing the inner panels is the best solution, but Studebaker did a great job of spot welding. They are really difficult to get separated. But any project worth doing.... tempestan

Reply to
tempestan

Well, I got more work done today, but not what I was expecting to do, altogether. I used my A-frame and chain hoist to lift the front end off the ground, so I could replace the front wheels. I want 4 alike on there, to help it sit level for the bodyman.

Then the dread "might-as-wells" got hold of me. Might as well clean all the hardened grease and gunk off the front end, seeing as it's so nicely exposed, and raised to a comfortable working height. Got that done. Since it's still in the air, might as well scrape-chisel-peel off all the rock-hard undercoating on the firewall, A-pillars, and front portion of the floors. Got that done. Floors are softer than they first appeared to be, but the crucial link between the A-pillars and batwing crossmember is in fine shape, yet. I have a mangled 2R-series truck cab out back, with some nice metal in the step-up portion of the floor. Time to harvest some patch panels!

Then I moved the hoist to the rear end, and changed out both rear wheels, so now all 4 match. Something weird with the model 44 rear axle: no yoke or pinion shaft! Seems like there is a carrier in there; I don't feel a wobble or hear scraping sounds when I spin a rear wheel, and in fact, if I spin one, the other spins the same way. Might be a TT? No sign of the rear cover having ever been off, either. I wonder if it ate its pinion shaft? I wasn't curious enough to pull the rear cover and look. Rear axles I have.

Once the car was back on its wheels, I rolled it away from the shop a bit, and fired up the pressure washer, and commenced to hose out the car. Suddenly, the water pressure fell off drastically. What gives? Unscrewed the garden hose from the inlet fitting of the pressure washer, and found 3 or 4 earthworms piled up on the filter screen. That'll do it every time. I don't know if they were swimming in the rain-water cistern, or if they had taken up residence in the garden hose while it lay out over winter, but they sure had quite a wild ride!

So I didn't get to the coupe doors or the hood, but the basic body shell is cleaned up enough to work on it without my getting filthy in no time at all.

Gord Richmond

Reply to
Gordon Richmond

Update:

I did cut the welds; took 3 wheels for my 1/4" die grinder, but got the hood separated from the fenders without doing it any violence. Hood edges have been cracked and repaired at several spots, but it's basically sound. The right side hinge attachment plate was missing, so I salvaged one from a Hawk hood with a bad case of "corneritis". There will be some metal work required to make this hood nice, but that is why I'm hiring a bodyman to do the car. I took my 4" angle grinder to the welds on the hood edges, and now have it cleaned back to mostly original metal.

Anyone here have comments on the idea of bending 1/2" conduit to the contour of the hood edges and welding it to the inside of the flange formed by the sides of the hood lip? I figure it might help stiffen up the hood, and prevent a hinge-bending calamity. My next step with this hood is to sandblast it before attempting to weld on the hinge plate or any reinforcement.

I made one welcome discovery when I separated the fenders from the hood: I do in fact have the front portion of the inner fenders, from about 3" behind the rad support towers on forward. That's basically the part that differs between the early C/K and the Hawk types, at least the crucial part. More stuff to sandblast.

Gord Richmond

Reply to
Gordon Richmond

and repaired

There will be

plate or any

If it were me, I would fabricate a doubler for the entire length of the hood on both sides rather than attempt a tubular reinforcement. I think that it would be stronger and be less obvious of modification.

Reply to
Grumpy AuContraire

I figure it might help stiffen up the hood, and prevent a hinge-bending calamity. ____________________

___________________ A really good idea, and good points on both hands. I just disdain a floppy hood.

I'd be afraid a doubled piece would be a rust attractant, or hump up the metal where it was fastened (brazed? rivets?). Maybe 1/4" square-section tubing would make a good compromise? Should be stronger than just sheet metal, but not look as fabbed as round conduit. Of course it's absolutely no harder to contour ...

Reply to
comatus

Well, thanks for the thoughts. The hawk hood from which I robbed the hinge plate has doublers that extend forward about 9 or 10 inches from the hinge plate. Yes, I'm concerned that simply doubling up the metal would form a potental rust trap.

As far as the conduit looking "fabbed", I don't really care, it IS on the underside of the hood anyway. And the FACTORY support for the latch assembly is a piece of 3/4" tubing as it stands, so using conduit would be consistent with the original design. I figure I could lay the conduit into the "V" formed by the near-vertical hood edge and the 1/4" flange where it is bent under for stiffening. Tack welds at intervals along the bottom edge, and plug welds through holes drilled at intervals along the line of contact between the vertical hood edge and the conduit. Make the hood edge into a 3-dimensional structure, and should add a lot of stiffness with very little extra weight.

This car will be a Stude-powered custom, unless someone buys it off me.

Gord Richmond

Reply to
Gordon Richmond

Sounds like a reasonable course of action. I just hate welding on conduit. Jeff

"Gordon Richmond" wrote..

Reply to
Jeff Rice

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