Having trouble with the New Heater Control Valve!

I bought a new heater control valve for my 64 Hawk. It does not appear to be opening. Lever is adjusted correctly. Plunger seems to move slightly but NO HEAT. There is a tiny phillips screw on the firewall side behind a rubber plug I have screwed it in NO HEAT screwed it out NO HEAT left it in the Middle NO HEAT. Did I get a bad heater control valve? Anyone buy one that works? It's nice and shiny but NO HEAT.

Allen Anderson

Reply to
Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.c
Loading thread data ...

Alan, take the valve off and if you can blow through it easily, then it is not your problem. Then the problem lies in the plumbing. The hose should come directly from the top of the water manifold to the valve, then to the heater core and from there back to the lower water manifold, I think. I can't think of any reason why the heater valve shouldn't open, but if you work the part that the cable moves with the valve out of the car, it should be plainly visible if it is opening or not. Tim K.

Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.com wrote:

Reply to
GTtim

Heater cores also have a nasty habit of becoming clogged... Especially with low ussage.

JT

GTtim wrote:

Reply to
Grumpy AuContraire

Y'know, I noticed a decrease in heat when I replaced the heater core on my '55. The original was what I would call a "cellular" type core and the replacement is a tube and fin type. I als oreplaced the valve at the same time as both were leaking. Before it put off incredible amounts of heat, now, not so much. But I will probably not worry about it untl absolutely everything else on the car is fixed...

nate

Grumpy AuC> Heater cores also have a nasty habit of becoming clogged... Especially

Reply to
N8N

Nate did you replace the heater control valve (HCV) with the new valve that S- I offers? I purchased the $86 USD control valve from SI. The new HCV does not have the temp sensor that the old one has.

FYI my heater core is original and in fantastic shape, so I know it is not that.

Plumbing wise: The top of the waterpump manifold is going to the Y section of the (HCV). The straight lead from the HCV is going the the bottom of the heater core. From the top of the heater core to the bottom of the water pump manifold.

I took the Hawk out last night Downtown Toronto anyway (it was a mild night

52 degrees) I was travelling north on Yonge Street in the Theater District. It was great to see the street sidewalks packed with people and having so many people pointing at the Hawk. She sure draws the attention!

It would have be better for my date if we had some HEAT any other suggestions?

N8N wrote:

Reply to
Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.c

Nope, I bought a rebuilt one from Jon Myer. My valve is different from yours anyway as I have an under seat heater.

nate

Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.com wrote:

Reply to
Nate Nagel

I need to get one for the '55 Prez sedan.

JT

Nate Nagel wrote:

Reply to
Grumpy AuContraire

Reply to
GTtim

Thanks Tim,

I will check for the blow through, There is a good possibility that the car does have a 160 degree thermostat s>Alan, it sounds like the plumbing is in order and if the HCV is opening

Reply to
Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.c

I never used anything hotter than a 160° thermostat when I lived in New England and never suffered for the lack of heat. Even my T-cab with a three row radiator provides ample heat even though the temp indicator hardly budges.

JT

"Studebaker-r2-4-me via CarKB.com" wrote:

Reply to
Grumpy AuContraire

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.