Hi all, Long time lurker,posting. Tried starting a 62 GT today, to no avail. Previous owner said they drove it into the garage last fall,and it ran fine. I purchased it none running, this summer. I don't have a 62 shop manual,but I do have a 53 shop manual. My question is: Is the proceeger for checking valve timming the same on a
289 V-8 as it would be on a 232 V-8? #1 intake valve clearance at zero with timming pointer on first mark on damper ? Mine's about two and a half inches before the mark. So I'm thinking I need to put on a new cam timming gear. Or am I missing something? I confirmed fireing order and ign.timing. And both valves closed on TDC.
Basically, the distributor should be pointing at 6:30 (straight ahead) at TDC. But, remember there's two TDC positions since the crank turns twice for every distributor rotation.
To be sure that TDC represents the compression cycle, remove #1 plug and "bump" the engine with the starter until you feel compression while watching the position of the rotor. If all is ok, then check for spark and fuel.
Hi all, Long time lurker,posting. Tried starting a 62 GT today, to no avail. Previous owner said they drove it into the garage last fall,and it ran fine. I purchased it none running, this summer. I don't have a 62 shop manual,but I do have a 53 shop manual. My question is: Is the proceeger for checking valve timming the same on a
289 V-8 as it would be on a 232 V-8? #1 intake valve clearance at zero with timming pointer on first mark on damper ? Mine's about two and a half inches before the mark. So I'm thinking I need to put on a new cam timming gear. Or am I missing something? I confirmed fireing order and ign.timing. And both valves closed on TDC.
And both valves closed on TDC Got spark, got fuel.
Left rocker cover off, both valves closed after intake valve had been open last, next comes compresson, at TDC . Distributor on #1 wire.
Get some fireworks out of carb,this is why I'm thinking valve timming, because timming light flashes on TDC.
Rotate the distributor as required if you're that close.
BTW, I find the use of timing lights next to useless when it comes to tune ups on old cars with considerable mileage. Too many wear factors to monkey wrench the results..
Curious...If the car was driven into the garage, why are you focusing on valve timing? Typically when cars sit, the ignition points corrode and need a good cleaning before you can get proper spark. If the timing gear had lost some of its teeth, the camshaft and distributor would not turn. It is all or nothing since there is no timing chain to jump. You are probably thinking way too deep on this one.
It would seem to me that if it were driven into the garage last fall, it should start up. Perhaps a simple filing of the points my do it and maybe pour a little gas directly into the carb. Or better yet, a squirt or two of starting fluid.
I'll concede that modern gas is crap has very poor storage characteristics. I know from experience as I had to remove the heads on both, the '55 & '56 for letting gas go way too stale. If it really smell real bad, it's probably too late.
In the old'n days, I often left the Power Hawk and/or Avanti idle for a year or more but never had a problem getting 'em started. But that was pre-1990 when gas had a lot more formulated integrity.
Goes to show that everything is turning into crap...
The guy I bought it from said he was no mechanic,he got spark plugs changed and that was about it. And when he couldn't get it started, he had two other guys come over and look at it. They both said they thought his firing order was mixed up. So they changed plug wires around, but still no go....
I worked on it checked all systems, fuel (thats a whole other story there, he said the electric fuel pump was bad. He poured gas down carb, but still no go.. He had taken off fuel line and the pump made noise but no gas came out.. I asked if it had gas in tank? he said , yes. When I got it home I poured in
5 gal., took off hose, bingo, gas to carb...) Points where shined up I had spark. Timing was on, or so I thought.
Chip and JT got me thinking about that rotor being at 10 o'clock posiition, and not staight ahead 12 o'clock. So I put it on the timing mark (compression stroke) pulled the distributor, turned oil pump with long screw driver, and put the distributor back in so the rotor was straight ahead. Tried it again and it took off !!!!! YAAAAAAAA!!!
I was thinking to deep, that a stuck valve, like George said, had messed up the valve timing.
Thanks to all again, the combined efforts of the news group gets another Stude on the road!!!!!!!
It might be mildly entertaining to hear WHY TooGize thought the firing order was wrong. I bet neither of the 2 would have fared well here.
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Sounds like TooGize did correctly copy the firing order for a correctly positioned distributor. If only they knew to be sure the rotor is pointing at number 1. But then the purchase price would have remained a bit higher.
Even with the mis-positioned distributor, originally a spark test would have revealed no spark, which would lead to filing the points. Then when fresh gas was poured in the carb blessed internal combustion would result.
So the old standby of " First check for spark and fuel" are vindicated once again.
"Distrust the previous owner's statemenbts" is a decent rule too.
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