Won't start...no spark...check what next..?

Doesn't seem to be much coming out of the coil. In fact, I don't feel ANYthing. And since I'm gonna get a Pertronix with a new coil anyway, I think I'll just wait til then.

John

Don't throw parts at it just yet.

If you don't have a spark at the coil wire: Check the output at the coil wire as you short across the OPEN distributor points with the key on. A screwdriver tip is all that's necessary. The spark should occur as you remove the screwdriver tip -- not at the time you short the points.

If you get a spark that way, clean and reset the points. while cranking, if you get a spark at the coil wire and none at the plug wire, the problem could be the distributor rotor. On the GT's the resistor carbon piece on the rotor has been known to fail (open). You can usually see it. Also inspect/replace the cap if necessary at this point. If you have no spark at the coil wire then disconnect the condenser and try again. If this action restores spark replace the condenser. Do not go without the condenser . The condenser is needed to prevent arcing at the points, an undesirable thing. Get back.

Try it with a hot wire from the battery directly to the + side of the coil. If you see "spark" at the points when they break... your problem is in the ignition circuit IE: switch, feed-wire from the solenoid, ballast resisto, etc..., . Otherwise- it's "past that" IE the points/condenser/coil etc...

Ray

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Always suspect the CONDENSER!

Dave Miller

This is a handy way to run a car with a problem in the ignition system upstream of the distributor. Helps if you're on a hill in a manual tranny car, too, For longer distances or longterm use, I'e consider putting a drop-down resistor in the circuit. I carry a wire with clips at either end in the tool box. (Not for modern cars! )

Karl