Anyone get a GTP letter from subaru?

I just got a letter Subaru talking about their GTP( guaranteed trade-in price) If I get a 2006 Subaru by feb 28,2006 they will give me a min of $15,750 sight unseen for my '04 WRX Wagon as long as it's at or under 24k mi. I call a dealer and asked about my car, because I have 25k miles and he said that they would just take off $.15 a mile over 25. They will also give you more if they feel your car is worth more. Plus $500 for Subarubucks, L.L. Bean, or toward your first loan or least payment. I only owe about $14k and I'm think about Leasing a '06 STI. If they have the right price I will get this then, I can get the EVO X or the New STI that will be out about '07. When my lease is up then they will have better price on thoose cars and I will junp to one of them. Anyone try to use this yet?

Reply to
Bryan Lee
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I got the same thing and thought about it until I saw the mileage limit. I have 60k in two years.

Reply to
bigjim

Why do you want to be perpetually in debt? I pay cash for mine and run the wheels off of them. I have an '03 Outback and a '91 Jeep. I have no idea when the Jeep will die.

Al

Reply to
Al

Thats how leasers live-always in debt. Carmakers love them

Reply to
bigjim

Reply to
Bryan Lee

So I have no pressure I can afford

Must be nice, some of us don't have the luxury

Reply to
John

We probably all got the letter. I always think that convenience for us means more profit to the dealer. Otherwise why is he always pestering me with warranty offers and letters such as this.

I believe in separating the deal, i.e get the best price I can on the car and do any financing, trade in, etc. external to the deal. I'm also one of those that pays cash and keeps the car forever.

Reply to
Frank

Leasing can be GOOD...... leasing can be BAD....... Depends on what you want to do at the end of the lease. If you walk away from it, the money spent is a total loss. The GOOD part is when the car turns out to be a piece of shit, you are rid of it without paying all the money for it. The GOOD part is when you lease it for 36 months and make your payments "heavy". If you operate a home based company you simply "write off" the heavy payments.I have done this a few times.I put next to nothing down on it, make my payments close to $400 a month and write it off. The residual on my 2002 Fully loaded Ford Explorer with less than

30,000 miles on it was $11,500.Where can you buy a fully loaded,like new SUV for $11,500??? BE CAREFUL on buyouts! You ***MUST*** get ready to buy it out BEFORE the lease runs out! If you do want to buy it off, arrange with a lender about 2 months before it ends (or pay cash).If the lease terminates the Lease holder can (and will) want to charge you the "CURRENT VALUE" on the vehicle or demand it back!!! At the 2 month time YOU are still in control and have the right to buy it off for the "buy out" amount. The BAD part of a lease...... Break down the costs involved, if you can not write it off a lease is not for you.Be aware! DO NOT lease a car that is a known piece of shit. Cars that do not hold their value well, WILL put you "upside down". You will pay more than it's worth in the end or be forced to walk away from it in the end. You can turn that in your favor if you are careful. DO THE MATH before you even step foot in the place. Example 1... You lease a piece of shit Kia. You put close to nothing down on it.The lease is $199 a month.You lease it for 3 years. You are allowed 12,000 miles a year. For the 36,000 miles you are allowed you have a full warrenty.In 3 years you will shell out around $7200. At this time you can walk or buy it.You might want to walk. Example 2... You lease a nice car, put a few thousand down on it. You get a payment schedule thats comfortable for you. YOU WRITE IT OFF for 3 years. In 36 months you still like the car you buy it out for way under the market value.The lower amount you will pay off is NOT a write off. Leasing is NOT for everyone. Buying a car that is a lease return is a crapshoot, why did they walk away from it? Some want a *NEW* car every 3 years, some HATE the car and want to dump it. Restrictions on lease vehicles..... You cant/wont do ANY modifications to "leased" vehicles period.NO engine mods,No exhaust system mods,No body mods,No painting it. You do not own it, its not yours (yet).At the time you turn it in they will check EVERYTHING.Every scratch,ding,nick,tear,glass,carpeting, tire wear and of course miles.It MUST be exactly like you got it(except for miles and normal wear). Insurance claims can be a real *BITCH* on leased cars. God help you if it's totalled. Your insurance company and the lease holder will NEVER agree on the amount on the value of the dead car and the lease holder will come after *YOU* for the differance. Some companies will demand you have THEM service the vehicle. You WILL bring it to them for oil changes, for ANY service and if its not agreed upon in writing that THEY pay for it..you will! OH YEAH. Give that lease a lot of thought, the cards are stacked against you.
Reply to
Mortimer Schnurd

FWIW, I don't know if it's ever a good idea or what it's called, but it is possible to buy insurance that covers the difference.

-- Mark

Reply to
Mark T.B. Carroll

Reply to
Hal Whelply

Reply to
Bryan Lee

leasers=losers ? ;)

Reply to
daszkiew2000

back in 1990 i paid cash for new honda civic and sold it with profit after 12 months :)

Reply to
daszkiew2000

Those old Pontiac heads didn't breath too well.

Reply to
Bob H

What he said. I have 117,000 miles on mine and it's just starting to get real comfortable.

Reply to
Jim Stewart

And just to show you how much Mortimer who knows all about leasing really does know, just about all leases come with built in "gap insurance." It of course is more to protect the banks than the consumer.

Reply to
normzauchin

Reply to
bigjim

That is true. But not for the reasons this poster says. If you put substantially less miles on a car than the lease calls for you should buy. As the car will depreciate less and why give that benefit to a dealer. If you drive substantially more miles than the lease calls for you should buy. At anywhere from .15 to .30 cents an extra mile it can get very expensive. If you figure on keeping your car at least seven years you should buy. Other wise leasing makes better financial sense.

That is just stupid. If you are paying 400 a month for 36 months on a $32,000 (about the right numbers) car and did not put anything down, you paid 14,400. You don't think that your $32,000 car depreciated by more than $14,400. Not to mention you paid the whole sales tax when you bought and only paid tax on 14,400 when you leased. You had the use of the car for three years and now you get to walk away before the tires, battery, muffler, etc., walk away.

Well, that is obvious.

Unless the car has very low mileage or you need it for your wife or kid it really makes no sense to buy it. The way residual value works you will be paying more than market and if you finance the residual, you probably could get a brand new lease for the same payment. The only difference is that you now own a high mileage six or seven year old car that is probably going to need some serious repair bucks soon.

Most people can arrange a car loan in a day.

If the lease terminates the Lease holder

On just about every lease the lessor will extend your lease on a monthly basis as long as you want. Why would he not? You are now paying the same 400 a month on a three year old car.

At the 2 month time YOU are still in control and have the

You can buy it for the residual right up until the end of the lease.

Just about any financial advisor including Consumer Reports recommends leasing given the caveats mentioned above.

Be aware! DO NOT lease a car that is a known piece of shit.

It is impossible to be upside down in a lease and why would anyone sane buy or lease a "known piece of shit"?

You will

Considering you are paying about 40% of the car's price when you lease, how can you be forced to pay more than its worth?

Good advice whether you lease or buy or intend to negotiate anything.

Does any of this have a point?

Never put down anything on a lease. Take the higher payments. If you cannot afford the payment the car is too expensive for you. You don't put down money because there is no reason to have the lessor have the use of that money instead of you.

This of course is not true. What difference does it make to the insurance co. if the bank owns it or the leasing company. You do not have a clue.

God help you if it's

Gap insurance is provided free on every lease I have heard of in the last 20 years.

No, they won't. You made this up.

You WILL bring

What the hell are you talking about?

No, they aren't. As I said, given the caveats in my first graph almost every financial advisor recommends leasing. You of course are talking right out of your ass.

Reply to
normzauchin

How did you manage that?

Reply to
Donkey Agony

Reply to
Bryan Lee

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