break-in period

I don't know that he was actually giving advice. He was just being skeptical.

You probably remember correctly, but your teacher was mistaken. Here is a link (one of MANY, do a google search) that explains it:

I too was surprised, but the above seems to be the truth. At least one major glass manufacturer has an FAQ that lists this topic, but I couldn't find it-I thought it was corning but their page doesn't seem to have the FAQ I remember.

--Dan

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

--Dan

There have often been theories, and perhaps different manufacturers use different oils. The basic theories are single weight oil, extra additives, or a combination therof.

There isn't that much specific information on break-in oil on the web. However - ere are a few I found through a search engine:

John Deere actually sells a break-in oil to top off for new engines or use in rebuilt engines for 100 hours (I guess most tractor/ equipment operators keep logs):

Chevron sells an "uncompounded" SAE 60 oil for uses as a break-in oil in aircraft engines. It sounds like break-in oil is very common in aircraft engines, although it's fairly well-known that aircraft engine tolerances aren't as high. They tend to go with older, proven technology.

Features

Chevron Aero Engine Oils Uncompounded do not contain ashless dispersant additives that retard the formation of sludge.

Applications

Chevron Aero Engine Oils Uncompounded are the type of oil recommended by most engine manufacturers and engine rebuilders for use as a break-in oil for new, rebuilt or overhauled fourstroke cycle aircraft piston engines. Check with the engine manufacturer or overhaul facility for their specific recommendation.

Well, three of the guys at the dealership seemed to encourage me to do so, so I took their advice, after really grilling them and making sure they knew their shit. At any rate, I am back home now, I have put 1400 miles on the car, and I did my best. I varied the engine speed every 50 miles or so during the trip. But I also was unable to hold off on seeing what kind of power the car had before the 1000 mile mark. In other words, yes, I had some fun with it right away, but not excessively.

I suspect the car will be fine. It's 2004, after all, and I highly doubt a not-strictly-by-the-manufacturer break-in routine will spell doom for this machine.

At any rate, your doom-prediction does have me curious....would it be worth it to have someone take apart the engine and inspect the rings and cylinders to see how they look?

Matt

To be fair... I shouldnt have responded in the way I had. Sorry. Break in procedures are well thought out and not without reason though. Always follow break in procedures.

Rob

I should note here... I was trying to be pleasently sarcastic in my last sentence. I can see I failed remarkably. ;^)

Truthfully? Thats too infrequent.

That might not be so bad. I wouldnt worry about that part.

Nah. I wouldnt worry about it. Honestly I think we vary our speeds while driving a lot more than we realize. Is yours an automatic? Stick? The rings arent exactly metal on metal as one poster mentioned. Although when under differing pressures, such as in accelerating or decelerating, the

*high* points are rubbed off. Different cylinder angles occur under different loads. This all needs to be taken into account. The cylinder/pistons are seperated by a film of oil, as you probably know. No rubbing occurs between the two. Just the high points of contact are rubbed or polished off. But the rings also need to be seated... and that requires differing engine loads as well. You dont want your rings twirling circles forever.

What I would do, even now, is when you first get in your car to go somewhere use the rpm band. Be generous. Overly so. After its warmed up I wouldnt worry about it. Just my .02

Rob

LOL, were you stoned when you went off on ecstacy? Heh heh. Have you ever looked for evidence. Im sure tons of it exist. Visit you local library and look it up. Write Subaru... ask them what they base their recomendations on.

Rob

Wow - I'm still trying to break in my new WRX, and I'm at the very least going plus/minus 5 MPH every 30 seconds. I'm getting rather sad gas mileage though.

I've occasionally blipped the tach just above 4K, but never more than a second. Makes it frustrating when I'd really want to floor it.

He said STi, so it's the 6-speed stick.

Absolutely.

Much appreciated. About warming up, though....is it necessary to sit in my car for 5 minutes in the morning (and evening) to let it get to a reasonable temperature? Or can I get away with, say, 2 minutes, then drive very conservatively until the temperature is warm enough to let loose and scare some grandmothers?

Matt

actually, the pictures were deliberately misleading.

the two scans were not of the same subject. they showed two different subjects whose baseline activities were not even close--essentially, the highest high vs. the lowest low.

don't get me started on the war on drugs propiganda...

if you'd been paying attention, you would have noticed the latest brouhaha over the latest mdma study by the government-hired dr. george ricaurte:

the entire thing looks like bullshit, smells like bullshit, and sits there steaming just like bullshit.

do some googling, and educate yourself. a lot of "experts" out there are scientists of the worst sort.

ken

During his break in though I would use this opportunity to take advantage of the differing clearances in a cool engine. When things have room to wiggle, or work at small angles when a large clearence is present, its an opportunity to rub things off and smooth things down. I would be a little heavy on the accelorater in the mornings for a while. But with as many miles as you have already... really, I wouldnt worry about it. If your not blowing smoke, and if your gas mileage is close to what it should be when you drive moderatly, Im sure your fine.

Rob