clutch pedal not completely popping out

Yesterday I noticed that my clutch pedal was not popping out completely. It seemed like maybe a spring was getting stuck part way, and wouldn't pop all of the way out. I could get it to pop all of the way out by putting the back of my foot behind the back of the pedal and pulling on it. Today that problem went away, so it seems to be a random occurrence.

Now a bit of background on the clutch. I had it replaced earlier this year, in March. So I took it back to the shop where I had it done, and the shop suggests that maybe the hydraulics need replacement. He suggested that the not popping all of the way out was due to humidity yesterday. What does everyone else think?

Yousuf Khan

Reply to
Yousuf Khan
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I don't buy it. The springs, both the one on the pedal and the one on the clutch fork return the pedal. I think they are plenty strong to overcome any fluid problems.

Reply to
Bob Noble

on two of my Toyotas, a bad slave cylinder has caused this to happen, but usually (on Toyotas, anyway) the pedal stays on the floor...

Reply to
Hachiroku

Yeah, that's what I think too. If it was a fluid problem, then it would stay completely on the ground.

Also, I don't think if the peddle even if it is partly in, is causing the clutch to slide as I am not smelling anything burning or hearing any squealing.

Yousuf Khan

Reply to
Yousuf Khan

So you think maybe one of the springs in the clutch pedal is getting shot?

Yousuf Khan

Reply to
Yousuf Khan

Had the same problem with my '01 Forrester, took it in and found out there was a TSB and it was fixed under warrenty. It worked fine when cold but would begin to stick after driving for a while and things heated up. Don't know if this is related to your problem, but maybe worth checking out? I found the following from a search...

Clutch Slave Cylinder TSB

NUMBER: 03-52-03R DATE: 07/15/03

APPLICABILITY:

1995-2002MY Legacy; 1997-2003MY 2.5L Impreza; and 1998-2003MY Forester Vehicles. All models have Manual Transmission.
Reply to
Mike

No, I don't think that can happen and start working ok again, as far as springs go. After reading some of the other posts, it might be a messed up slave cylinder, but I don't think just changing the fluid will help this condition and a humid day should have nothing to do with the fluid as humidity doesn't get into the fluid system. It could also be the same of he master cylinder and thinking more on this I suppose if you wanted you could change the fluid, but still don't feel it is necessary and more likely a waste of money. It might just be a thing where one of the pistons hung up for a bit, maybe because of some scoring. I think I would put a wait and see on it and see if the problem happens any more.

Otherwise, since you don't really know what caused it, you'd likely have to replace the master and slave cylinders to be sure you got it. It doesn't seem like the type of problem that would just fail and let you down, so myself, I'd be inclined to watch and see for a bit.

Reply to
Bob Noble

Thanks, it sounds the same.

Would the Outback be included among the Legacy?

Yousuf Khan

Reply to
Yousuf Khan

I've never seen this on a hydraulic clutch; usually if something goes wrong, the clutch pedal goes to the floor, and stays there. I'm trying to imagine how a sticky TO bearing might cause this, but I can't see it happening; once it gets the clutch pedal up past the effect of the "helper" spring, the "return" portion of the pedal spring ought to pop it on up against the stop.

Check for possibly some of the wiring harness or ??? interfering with the pedal motion, and spray some WD-40 on the pivot points while you're under there.

Removing/replacing the pedal cage is a PITA, but might be worthwhile if the problem becomes persistent.

Keep us posted.

ByeBye! S. Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

Yeah, that was my next idea. Good ole WD-40. :)

Yousuf Khan

Reply to
Yousuf Khan

That stuff sucks. Go over to your local GM dealer (yeah, I know, just hold yer nose and charge through the door!) and pick up a can or two of Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Libricant. It is the one real good thing GM dealers have, and it runs rings around anything else for lubricating, freeing stuck bolts and removing rust from nuts and bolts.

Reply to
Hachiroku

I wouldn't say WD-40 sucks as a general statement. It primarily is a solvent (a lubricant is in there, folks speculate it might be a silicone, probably why the can says shake before use) called Stoddard Solvent, a 'deodorized' kerosene. It's quite good at flushing gunk out but it is not a long lasting lube. I suppose following up with some kinda lithium grease or the Heat Riser lube as mentioned would be a good idea. Just know the limits of WD-40. I keep some around, but I never expect it to be a durable lubricant.

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

The WD stands for Water Dispersant which is what it was designed for, and it does it well. Anything else that it is used for will be a bonus but there may be other products that will do those other tasks better.

Reply to
bugalugs

Yup. It was deeveloped to keep the missles in underground silos from rusting!

I have actually found that if sprayed as a 'lubricant', it will actually remove and grease from whatever, and I found this out by 'lubricating' a hood cable with it.

At least Toyota hood cables are easy to replace...

Reply to
Hachiroku

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