Outer (CV) joint Boot replacement

In the future it is probably wise to replace both inner and outer at the same time.

Not sure what year vehicle you have. I take the axle in and out on my '82 without the puller. It is easier to push out than to pull back in. To get it back in I have assembled a few washers and spacers that I use along with the existing nut to pull it back in.

I have change the outer boots without pulling the axle but that is not fun.

Something else I learned is that the genuine Subaru boots seem to be of a higher quality rubber and last longer than the NAPA, etc boots. At least that was my experience a few years ago.

I still need to know how to get the Axle out of the hub? Special tools? The inner boot is no issue as that can be done while the axle is still attached at the wheel end.

On my '82 I loosen the nut to the end of the shaft and tap the axle loose and then take the nut off and push/tap it the rest of the way. Better to use a brass hammer.

It is such a pain to change them and since you have to take the inner boot off to do the outer it is well worth it to change both at the same time. But you are right that the inners usually go first.

Beware of aftermarket axles. My brother works in a Scoobie shop and on occassion they have put in after market axles trying to save the customer some $$$s and many times they had out of balance problems with them and had to redo the job.

On my '82 I was having a vibration in the front end which I could not get rid of. Finally discovered it was an out of balance axle and when I pulled it out it turned out to be an aftermarket unit that someone had put in before I bought the car. I replaced it with a genuine Subaru axle and the vibration went away.

I've replaced several in my own cars, and many in customers vehicles, and NEVER had a problem.

That's true, but the OP had just changed the *inner*, so in *that* case, it probably would have been a good idea to replace the outer, or replace the half shaft (except you risk getting a crappy aftermarket one when your original one may be in great shape).

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

You meant to say "outers" right? 8^)

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

I've seen *LOTS* of discussion on another Subaru forum about this, and apparently it is not uncommon to get bad (meaning worn out joints and improperly rebuilt) remans. Some rebuilders are better about this than others. It seems to be consistently felt that NAPA does a better job of screening suppliers of things like this than most chains stores - IOW, most people have good experience with NAPA remans, and also that the dealer is usually another good source.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Hi Jeff, Connie, All!

On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 00:01:11 GMT, "Jeff and Connie" wrote:

If all you want to do is replace the boot, you do not need to remove the axle. The procedure somewhat depends on model and year. Generically, remove the roll pin holding the axle to the stub shaft on the tranny. Separate the hub from the lower ball joint by removing the pinch bolt, spreading the socket a bit, and prying with a large pry-bar. Separate the tie rod end from the hub by loosening the nut and giving a sharp rap with a hammer. Pull the hub away from the tranny to separate the axle from the stub shaft. Remove the clamps from the inner boot, and slide it back from the joint. Using a small screwdriver, remove the retaining ring from the inside of the outer housing of the joint, (you'll see what I'm talking about when you get that far) and slide the shell off of the bearing "spider". Remove the snap ring holding the spider to the axle shaft, and remove the spider. You can now replace the outer boot. Clean everything, and pack in as much fresh grease as you have patience for. Reassembly is the reverse. Should you want to pull the axle, before you do any of the above, relieve the nut staking, and remove the axle nut. On older Soobies there is a split conical washer to provide additional challenges. After you separate the axle from the tranny, you will be able to slide the axle inwards and out of the hub and bearings. Maybe. In all likelihood, you will need to use a large gear puller. Newer cars have the shaft splines arranged differently, which allows you to place the puller jaws on the brake rotor and push without loading the bearings. Older cars will require that you remove the brake caliper and rotor, and put the jaws on the hub. This results in side loading the bearings when you attempt to push. Gentle pressure is acceptable here, but resist the temptation to exert significant force or hammer on the axle end unless you want to replace the bearings as well. If gentle persuasion fails, resign yourself to replacing the bearings. Disconnect the hub from the bottom of the strut, and toss the whole assembly up on your workbench to make life with the puller a little easier. If the hub/axle spline area has significant rust/corrosion you will probably save yourself a good deal of effort and frustration by making a trip to your friendly neighborhood junkyard for a complete assembly; I have seen them absolutely refuse to come apart due to corrosion, and have mangled pullers, knuckles, temper, and any chances of passing thru the Pearly Gates while trying ;-) Once this far, it is probably easier, and definitely cleaner to reassemble the bearings/hub/axle on the bench, and reinstall it as an assembly. Hope this is helpful, feel free to contact me directly with specific questions.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

I usually just take the ball joint stud nut loose and seperate ball joint from control arm instead of taking it loose at the spindle, but either works, i guess.

While this is OK, it certainly makes cleaning the joints and repacking them properly tougher than just removing the axle from the vehicle

Not generally much of a challenge, after removing the axle nut, usually a quick rap on the axle pops the conical washer loose, then pull it out with a magnet.

I've done many axles, but I've NEVER used a gear puller. Put the axle nut back on flush with the end of the axle and smack a few times with a hammer, loosens 'em right up. Take the nut back off and either pull or gently tap the axle out of the hub.

Newer cars have

I've never had to, and I don't recall any of the tech I've worked with needing to replace wheel bearings from changing an axle on a Subaru or any other vehicle, after using a hammer to persuade the axle out of the hub. I've done, and seen quite a few changed over the years working in a Subaru/GM garage, as well as a couple independant shops and even a 'chain shop'