Re: Oil Change... (revisited)

Thank you all for you help :)

Good luck

Forrester wrote:

Ok, this may sound like a very noob question. but i am reading this and wondering.....

I just bought a 03 Forester. I haven't done my first oil change yet, but i will in the next 2 months or so. What are you guys talking about with going and buying washers? Don't you just take the plug out, drain oil, and put plug back in? like on most normal cars?

Am I missing something? is there something that needs to be replaced every time you do an oil change?

thanks in advance

Mike

Actually, they are not "supposed to be" reusable, but certainly are. Their function, as I have been told at least, is simply to provide a way of sealing the opening without putting too much torque on the threads. Most of us have heard of or experienced an oil pan plug opening that got ruined by torquing too hard on the plug. The crush washer does seal at it is crushed, which lets you know you got it properly snug, and doesn't over torque the threads in the pan. I have reused these crush washers (both aluminum and copper ones) a second time on maybe 3 or 4 occasions when I did not have another new one on hand. Each time I was extra careful not to torque too hard, but in each case, I had no problems with leaks. I don't make a habit of this, but it can be done usually without penalty.

I find that Delrin? (acetyl) washers are ideal - they are harder and last longer than nylon (nylon has problems at the temperatures they see on our engines, Delrin? does not). They are also slightly (not much) softer than the hard pressed fiber (cardboard) gaskets that the auto parts stores sell. As hard as the fiber ones are, they might as well be made of metal.

They don't sell Delrin washers in the stores - I buy them 25 or a hundred at a time from McMaster-Carr (a mail order industrial supply company that some of you may be familiar with). It's been a while since I bought any, but I'm guessing a bag of 25 would cost what maybe three far inferior washers from the auto parts stores cost.

Also, of course the thread stripping problem is tremendously aggrevated these days by many oil pans being aluminum (I don't know which the late modes Soobs have - my guess is aluminum) - the quick change oil places (and some auto dealerships) are the kiss of death for them.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Wow! that really sucks! Of course the first question is.... Why don't they just do it like EVERY other car manufacturer in the free world?

and second. If you ever take it to a "quick change" do you usually give them a washer?. i know you prob can't count on them knowing. (kind of like the tow truck driver hitching your scooby with the rear tires on the ground)

I love my car so far. Even though i will trade it in in a year or 2 for a turbo version, I couldn't afford it right now, but there are MANY qwerks in the Sube that really irk me.

Mike

I just use a flat one (non-crushable, just an ordinary steel washer). Thomason Subaru, from whom I mail-order my parts, say they use the non-crushable kind in their service dept and it works fine. They tape one to the box of every oil-filter I buy, although there's no reason they shouldn't be re-usable.

I simply torque the drain-plug to 40 ft-lbs (the Haynes manual says

John

P.S. Once, I got my oil changed at some fast place in Flagstaff AZ. Later I looked and it seemed they hadn't put a washer in AT ALL. But I couldn't tell for sure. I took it back and they looked and said "yeah, there's a washer in there". Sure enough, when I got home and changed the oil again, there was no washer. Bastards ! Wish I could remember the name of the place. But there were no problems.

You beat me to the punch on that one. I was formulating my response in my head before i even finished reading.

LOL

Mike

Solve your problem, go to:

This is a engine oil drain valve. I installed this on my Forester and am getting one for my Ranger.

Hope nobody hates you and opens it! LT

I'm thinking of a fumotovalve too, and worried about this.

But at least you'd probably notice a big puddle of oil, not that it still would'nt be a pain. If somebody cares to f**k you up enough to go to the trouble of collecting the oil so you don't notice, or even to simply go to the trouble of opening the valve at all, then chances are they'd be willing to go to the trouble of un-screwing a conventional drain plug.

Or not. I still haven't decided. It is really worth $30 to save myself a couple minutes labor 2-3X a year ?

John

In order to get access to the valve, the jerk would first have to figure out how to work the 6 Subaru clips that secure the plastic door. That would be a harder job than opening the valve.

Are you sure ? That's certainly a show-stopper for me !

John

The FAQ at fumotovalve.com explicitly states that this is NOT the case:

Q. Does my Engine Oil Drain Valve protrude into the interior of the oil pan and prevent full drainage of my engine oil?

A. No. The threaded oil drain plug hole is always reinforced to accept the threaded bolt of the drain plug. In most cases, the Engine Oil Drain Valve will not extend past this threaded portion of the drain hole and will allow the oil to be properly drained ...

Ok, actually, it waffles a bit and says "in most cases". Has someone examined the Subaru model and found that it is an exception ? (Apologies if that's what the quoted poster was saying he had done ...)

John

1. Why is so many people in these groups so negative. I would never worry about someone wanting to open the valve unless you tell everyone in the world you have it. I have had 3 Subies since 98, 2 Foresters and

1. How much oil could possibly be left in the engine. I checked the drain plug against the valve and saw no difference.

2. Do we all hire guards to watch our car, because you never know when someone may key your paint, or flatten your tires etc.
3. Another oil subject that gets so many defensive about is the 3000 mile oil change. I use Amsoil for 1 year at a time with one filter change, a average of 20,000 miles and oil analysis. Argue all you want, but synthetics are superior and in my opinion Amsoil is the best. It outperforms Mobil 1 in five tests (ASTM testing procedures)

1. You need to all try Buffalo Milke Instant Spray Wax. No more toothbrushes q-tips for detailing. NO white residue. Wax your Subie in

Now! Everyone start taking your shots on these 5 issues. Let all the experts come out of the computers.