I just changed the rear pads and rotors and everything is lubed and working properly but I noticed when on the hoist and I hold the brake pedal all the way down and put it in drive and give it gas the rear wheels will turn, if I let off the gas they stop. Is this normal?
The brake pedal should not go all the way down. You might have an air bubble. Try bleeding all 4.
I don't mean all the way to the floor, I just meant as far as I can push it. Should the rear brakes be able to overpower the engine? When the vehicle is on the ground I can do the same thing and it will not move because the front brakes are holding a great proportion.
mark wrote in news:6bbfbcf9-3af6-4d51-946d- snipped-for-privacy@r10g2000vbc.googlegroups.com:
yea thats normal. KB
Check your parking brakes and be sure they will hold. If so, it is probably okay.
It won't hold either. The back brakes are set up so they provide less than 20 percent of braking force. They won't hold back the engine. The P-Brake on these trucks is even worse. Plus on an 02 there may be a load sensing prop valve as well. On those a free hanging axle will almost disable the rear brakes entirely.
Thanks , as for the parking brake I got rid of that about 5 years ago, it never worked properly since I bought the truck brand new. Around here they never check it as part of the vehicle inspection.
One more thing, when doing the brakes over one of the sliders was rusted solid so after getting everything apart I drilled and tapped the dead end of the slider's passage and put zerk fittings in so I can now grease them, I am aware not to put too much in as it will probably end up on the disk and pads but the rubber boot on the slider hold it in nicely.
Why would he have an "air bubble" ?!?!
If all he did was swap pads, he shouldn't. If he opened the bleeders to compress the pistons, then there is a good chance he would.
When pressing the brake pedal can you turn the wheel by hand?
Sometimes here the parking brake check is a part of the manditory safety inspection. (Oddly, not every area has the same focus on what is inspected and how well). It is my view that if the parking brake wont hold, the rear brakes probably wont contribute the little bit that they do under best conditions.
When I read the OPs later post about drilling and tapping for Zerks, I just hope he lives far away from where I normally drive.
Yeah, I saw that too. Hopefully, he hasn't "fixed" the fronts as well.
The problem with greasing them isn't that it will get on the pads, it is that the grease will act like hydraulic fluid and hold the caliper in place just like rust did.
SOP for me on those pins is to pull them out. Then use a dull reamer that I made which cleans all the crud/rust out of the caliper mount. Then I clean the pin. If it is pitted or rusted much it gets replaced. When the new one goes in I apply a coat of silicone based grease to the pin. Make sure it gets in the hole as well. Then bottom out the pin. This makes sure the grease doesn't lock up the pin. I inspect the boot real well and clean them out. Then a small dab of silicone RTV on the lips so they seal better. OR the better solution is to do this once, then check them for operation every tire rotation.
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The pins are a very loose fit in the holes, there is no way the grease is going to push on the pin, I put one stroke of the grease gun in and the boot started to inflate then I stopped. Why would anyone loosen the bleeder to push the piston back, a "C" clamp easily does it.
You don't open the bleeders to compress the pistons.
There are more than a few who don't like the idea of pushing the crud in the calipers back up into the MC.
I know quite a few who do.
mark wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@a11g2000vbn.googlegroups.com:
Is your "grease" compatible with the rubber boots? If not, it will quickly emulsify the rubber and cause even worse problems.
Have you investigated just /why/ water is getting inside the boots and making the pins rust? There may be more happening here than at first appears.
Sure does. But how old is your brake fluid?
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