My 2000 Echo check engine light keeps coming on. The first time a mechanic found nothing and the light went off. (Gas cap?) The light came on again and I had it put on the computer. The neighborhood mechanic said he got a code he was having trouble following up.(?) Hovever,the light went off. The light has been on again for about a month and I had Monro run it through the "Orbit computer scan" when I had it in for an oil change. It came up with code PO171,system too lean,bank 1. It was suggested I take it to the dealer. Guess what. When I started the car,the light was off. Does this sound like an intemittant O2 sensor that resets itself when put on the computer? Should I ignore it? All I know about cars is what I read on this board.
Both gentileman are correct, it can many things that will create a false reading.....Without proper diag. all we are doing is are throwing parts greniades at the problem at hand. ...
i have seen a problem some Toyota's be the o2, on occassion i have seen faulty Comp. and or wiring
Thanks for the quick replies. One of my questions is,what significance is there in the light going off after the car is hooked up to the computer? If the light does not come on again,should I forget about it? BTW,I cannot even change a wiper blade without screwing up,so whatever gets done will by by a mechanic.
I believe most code readers have the ability to clear the code, making the light go off. That could be the case for you. But if the problem isn't fixed it will come back on eventually.
When my Mazda threw that code a few weeks ago it turned out to be a split in the big hose between the air cleaner and the intake, after the maf, just as someone else here gave as a possible cause. Easily fixed with a piece of duct tape until I can get a replacement.
You have an air or vacuum leak setting the code. We have this problem all the time. With Chevy and Ford with our fleet vehicles. Can be an intake leak, a vacuum hose, PCV hose or grommet. With engine running spray carb cleaner around top end of engine and listen for engine speed to change to a higher rpm. That is were the leak will be. Don't forget to also check the brake booster if you have vacuum assited power brakes.
If I'm so full of baloney, how come my car(s) run like a Top, and other people's cars run like shit? Got a clue, any idea? Maybe it is possible that I know more than you *think* I know.
Your impression of my skill levels has no relevance to what they actually are.
I already corrected a serious engine surge problem on this glorified taurus. didn't take the time to mention it, because of the inevitable flames that would have followed. So, why should I waste my time trying to help people who only spit on me for gratitude.
Yes -he- is in over his head, by his own admission, which leads me to question why he queried =this= n/g in particular, which is populated with highly experienced professionals and advanced amateurs ( counting myself amongst the latter ).
He had to know he was going to get a technical answer to his question. Now he says he doesn't know how to change a windshield wiper blade and is going to take the car to a mechanic. ;-\ He is definitely in *over his head.*
My URL reference was just a blip that I could make available with little effort. My service manual goes into the detail in a much more meaningful way.
BTW, baloney is good. I just had two heated baloney sandwiches, so right now, I -am- full of baloney ! 8-)
Yep. Nobody has all the answers. Too many different makes and models of vehicles to keep track of. We need input from people who have experience.
Re my engine surging problem, the syptom was the engine would surge heavily at idle but never while the vehicle was in motion. Clue: Something to do with IAC, throttle, position sensor, something in that area.
I took the IAC off, cleaned it out ( against the rules ), cleaned the throttle butterfly valve, reassembled...same problem.
Took a flashlight to the throttle plate and moved it 90 degrees to the bore, and there was a dam of *crap* piled up BEHIND the throttle air control vane. Behind it where you couldn't see it. So I scrubbed the crap out of that area to get it down to *bore diameter* and now the engine runs like new. This on a car with only 18K miles on it.
Now how much would that have cost me if I brought it to a *dealer* service shop. I paid something like $5 for a can of throttle plate cleaner. That was my entire investment. I also got to clean the MAF sensor, air filter, IAC piston and seals, and so forth. Fixed.
Less than 1 hour of labor and $5 for a can of spray. That's a story with a happy ending.
Something else: My alternator outputs 14.4 volts, but my Davis Car Chip records this as 13.8 volts. Screwy.
Another thing... My car takes 6 WATTS of power when it is *turned off.* No it isn't a parasitic load like a light left on, cause I can see the amperage rise and fall as lights turn on and off ( e.g. trunk light and so forth ). That is the power necessary for the Anti Theft Control System, power to keep the ECM memory alive, and who knows what else.
That's 6 watts being sucked off the battery 24/7, whether the car is running or off. Result: When I put my battery charger on the car this last weekend ( haven't done it in a while ) the battery took a HUGE charge.
Now I do have *all electric* this and that. Windows, door locks, seats, everything has a motor connected to it, not to mention the rear window defogger, the rear mirror defoggers ( yes, I have HEATED MIRRORS ), and who knows what else.
Bottom line is, if you have a car like mine, it might be a good idea to put a charger on it every now and then, especially if it is used for short trips around town.
There is a lot to learn. I checked the electrolyte level in my
*maintenance free* battery and THAT was down also from the beginning of this summer, and I had to top up the cells.
Bottom line is, keep an eye on what is going on under the hood so you don't get any unpleasant surprises. I check my serpentine belts, everything when I pop the hood. fluid levels, cables/wires/drips, it only takes a few minutes and will guarantee you'll be driving problem free when Winter hits.
I hate to say it Larry but you've got a problem. I'm not sure why you measure battery drain in watts, it's generally measured in milliamps. 6 watts would be about 500ma and on your car 20 would be considered normal. How are you measuring it? Are you leaving the meter connected for at least a half hour to give the GEM module time to go to sleep? Bob
No, I didn't give the GEM module time to go to sleep. But the car has been garaged for about 2 or 3 hours now since I came back from shopping, so I'll go read the drain now.
I use a clamp meter on the ground to chassis from the battery. Get the current, multiply by the voltage. Result = Watts. You got a problem with that? Smoke it.
Stand by for my *new and improved* reading with the GEM module sleeping soundly. Post coming shortly.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.