Another PO171 situation

I don't have a meter that will read that low with any degree of accuracy. This test will have to wait for another day.

Almost any cheap meter will read that without a problem. Bob

I don't have *any cheap meter* around here.

Well, if you bought an expensive one that won't measure it you got screwed. Bob

My clamp meter reads up to 600 amperes AC/DC. It does well with those high currents. It does a rotten job with very low currents.

It is the Craftsman Model 82014

Did I get *screwed* Bob?

Not at all Larry, just a case of using the wrong tool for the job. A mistake easily made by amateurs. Much like measuring parasitic draw in watts. Not your fault......you just don't know any better. Bob

I just don't know any better. "not my fault"

So, you agree that using a tape measure for measuring feet is appropriate, but not for measuring thousandths of an inch. A micrometer would be more appropriate and accurate for measuring the samaller values.

Therefore, two different intrstruments are required to satisfy accuracy demands in measuring both magnitudes: meters, and thousands and ten thousandths of meters.

And so it is with electronic instruments. I bought the instrument I needed to measure the larger values, by choice and forethought. Your calling it a fault of mine because I *don't know any better* proves beyond a shodow of a doubt your immense and incurable brain damage.

Lg

Yes, there is. You can watch the ammeter, and start removing fuses. When the circuit with the problem load is found, the meter will drop precipitously.

If you don't have an ammeter, make a resistive shunt and put a voltmeter across it. For the job of finding the circuit with the problem, you don't need any quantitative value, you just need to be able to see when the needle drops.

If this is the case, you have an alternator problem.

--scott

I want to start "The Test" with the GEM Module and all other modules _asleep_. That means, I have to let the car sit for 3 hours to be certain that these things are turned OFF.

Then, I will put a nice milliamp meter in series with the chassis ground coming from the battery, and read Real Numbers, instead of guessing, which is all I can do at the moment.

Yes, I can do this, but 10 days isn't a big deal. It isn't like I'm not going to catch this gremlin sooner or later. I'm on the hunt, and when I get the good equipment then I will have an idea if the parasitic load is NORMAL. If it is NORMAL, then there is NOTHING TO DO ABOUT IT.

If it is abnormal, THEN I go on the witch hunt. But before I even know if the parasitic load is normal or not, it is a waste of time to start yanking stuff IMHO, because it proves nothing. Yes I can disconnect EVERYTHING from the battery and have NO parasitic load. That isn't solving anything at all. I have to start by knowing if my parasitic load is normal or not before I begin this little adventure.

Alternator is putting out 14.4 volts DC at idle ( 750 rpm ). That I could measure. So, anything higher will *cook* the battery. That is to say, 15.0 volts DC coming from an alternator is *High.* It is abnormal. 14.0 volts DC is *normal.* So...my alternator is normal. The serpentine belt is not slipping ( I know this, because if it was, I would have trouble with my power steering and etcetera ). My belt tensioner is working fine ( I now have a tool for wrestling with that little bugger ).

But =something= is sucking down my car battery, that is the fact of the matter. I had to put such a charge on the battery the other day I was amazed. It was like I was charging a dead battery. Something is amiss, and I have to find it, but I am short of spare change just at the moment. In 10 days, I'll have my monthly retirement wired into my bank and I can get a _good_ quality meter. I have one picked out already, and hope it is still available in 10 days. Right now it is on Sale for 30% off retail.

Lg

But how many watts is it putting out?

Sorry Larry.... I couldn't help myself. Bob

Actually, that is a good question! I can measure -that- with my clamp meter, in amperes, and then do the infamous conversion ;-)

Yes, there *appears* to be a problem under the hood. When I can get proper measuring equipment I can begin working on it for real. Something isn't right.

The battery is no good? It checks out OK with my 300 Ampere Load Test.

The alternator isn't putting out enough current? GOOD QUESTION.

The parasitic load is above what is considered *normal*? I don't know yet but will find out soon enough.

My serpentine belt is in *good* shape, I have no reason to believe it is slipping.

So, this is a mystery just for another 10 days at least. I can give

Lg

Please elaborate...

Exactly what are you using for this load test and how is it being performed?

Zirconium resistive wire

Actron Battery Load Tester model CP7614

Place across batt terminals, hit load switch for 10 to 15 seconds, watch volt meter to see where it falls to. 10.4 or less is considered weak. 10.4 to 12.4 is considered good. That is =without= engine on.

For testing WITH engine ON, 12.4 to 13.5 = low

That's for the 12 volt testings. The only one I'm concerned about.

My battery never goes below 10.4 volts with the engine off, no matter how many times I do this *test*

I have NOT tried it with the engine running to see what the charging system is up to.

Lg

So how do you do a 300amp load test with a 130amp load tester? Bob

Run the 130 ampere test 2.307692308 times in sequence.

See, Bob....ah nevermind.