Building a pre-luber for engine. (To protect at start up)

When you sink $10,000+ into an engine you want protection, REAL protection, not a "special" synthetic. Sure prelubers aren't for everyone, but if you've got a high $$$, high power engine or just plain lots of cubes, it would be worth your while to get a good prelube system.

And that's different from someone else's 98 ranger 4.0 that has used conventional oil and has gone 100k miles and runs and sounds good as new, how? Like many have said before, your data is only one sampling. If your car had died you would say, "don't use amsoil, my car died at 60k miles!"

Try typing it instead of clicking on the link.

To answer your other question, your electric preluber design will certainly work. A check valve would be needed from an engineer's point of view. If you don't put in a check valve, and the pump is a rotary type, you would be relying only on some friction to keep the pump from spinning backward and draining off your oil pressure. That might work, but there's no easy way to determine that it'll work for any particular combination of oil and oil pumps. You could try it, and it might work, but then you'd never know if the pump would get easier to spin years from now and start causing problems later. Pumps aren't guaranteed to maintain a particular amount of friction, if you know what I mean.

Select your electric pump so that it has less volume output of your engine oil pump at idle. You know it's going to be cold when you use it, so you will need to rely on the built-in relief valve to control oil pressure at startup. The capacity of your oil pump is pretty easy to estimate from its gears' geometry.

As the other posters have said, it's probably useless, but anyway I think it could be very simple as you've described and still function.

IMHO, a pre-luber is a waste in street cars. Road race cars typically may use the pressurized canister to keep the bearings full if the oil pump starts sucking air going through high G corners.

I always wondered about these things. They seem to make sense as I've always heard that the first couple of seconds of cranking are destructive. However, Cruiser has a lot of data that seems to indicate otherwise. I say if it gives you peace of mind, do it but it doesn't look the data supports the theory. jor

Waste of time and money. There, you wanted opinions. I manage a fleet of over 30 trucks, all of them on good old dino oil, all of them changed every

3000 miles.. None of them less than 100k and the highest one is 295k. No engines apart yet.

use Amsoil

me I have 100

new. And instant

Yeah right mike....Amsoil for everything.

If we put amsoil in the white house we would have the perfect president. If we drink amsoil we will live forever. ............... Shut up with the ignorant amsoil commercials.

Check with the drag race crowd. They are used quite extensively for that purpose.

A company called Lubrication Research makes $300-600 electric pre-lube and post-lube pumps for cars (J.C. Whitney has sold them). Their own tests, done on 2 identical engines, one pre-lubed and the other not, showed an average decrease in wear of only 30% (varied with the particular part), compared to the 70-90% improvement usually claimed by sellers of snake oil additives. The results were published in the late 1980s or early 1990s in European Car magazine (formerly VW & Porshe), but I don't know what issue.