Ive never heard of that and wouldnt try it. Welch plugs are designed to fit certain sized holes, they have a lip to give sealing area friction, and are concave (from the front) which gives it a spring like function.
Welch plugs are cheap. There is no need to try to force a coin to do something that it wasnt made to do (unless you are in the jungle are are truly without alternatives).
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
yep, no such thing as a freeze plug. that is a slang used by those that don`t know any better. they are simply core plugs, nothing more. KB
If there is room to swing a hammer its all good.
typo or did someone actually put a truck six into a mustang?
I dont believe the 240 I6 was offered.
The 200 straight six was available, the 289, the 289 HP, and the 390 v8, I believe.
But the point is to strip the engine down to the point you can get at the welch plugs, and twist them out of there. I usually do it with a beat up screwdriver or long punch.
Then use a suitable driver (or socket that you dont give a damn about) and carefully tap the new ones in.
As others have mentioned these are NOT freeze plugs. They are there to wash out the foundry sand after the block is cast, and for nothing else.
I dont really know when the 427 crossbolt was offered, if indeed it ever was. I have heard it was, but have never seen one. In 1968 I got one of the Hubert Platt 428 Cobrajets. At the time, they said I could order a 427 but ONLY with 4 speed tranny, and no warranty worth discussing. Dealers here lie a lot.
That is right.. The 427 was shown only with the automatic, and I believe that was a special automatic.
My 428 had a C6. but it was a special run of C6. Ford claimed that engine actually put out something over 400 hp, but I think it was specked at 390. Buying that car was one of the mistakes of my life.
I don't know where you live but imagine your idea of cold and my idea of cold differ.
I have never seen a "freeze" plug push out to save the block... This isn't the "job" of the plug anyway... see the post about "core plugs".
Put the truck on a lift... of course everyone has at least one of these available... What part of the original post did we forget? This poor shmuck is working in the dirt like an Arab...
I either knock them sideways and pull them out and put new ones in. Or I knock them sideways , pull them out and put the expansion type in.
A straight 6 is damn easier to get to then a V8.
Exactly they dont stop blocks from cracking if froze. Its too remove the sand .
I have seen exactly 3 freeze pugs fail in my 40+ years of automobile ownership. None of the due to freezing, all of them from rotting from the inside out.
This is an inappropriate ethnic slur.
If the OP doesn't have access to a safe lift, I hope the OP uses ramps and is very careful to make sure that the vehicle can't come crashing down on top of him. I knew of one mechanic where this happened. The costumer came back to find the mechanic under the collapsed car. Instead of calling for help (the nearest fire station is only blocks away), the mechanic told the lady who owned the car how to lift the car back up with the equipment. It worked - sort of - the car slipped off the jack and killed him dead.
The morals of the story:
1) Always use proper equipment to lift a car.2) Always make sure that the car is extremely stable before you get under it. Always make sure that you're getting under the car unless there are backup devices (I always made sure that there jackstands in place in case the jack itself failed).
3) If there is an accident, always call in the professionals who know how to remove people from accidents safely, especially when they are just a few minutes away. Better have the professionals do it than have someone die.Jeff
If you are going to lift your vehicle up to work under there, you can never be too safe.Always make sure you have something good and solid under the wheel(s) And be sure the vehicle can NOT slip off.Don't use any hollow cinder/concrete blocks. cuhulin
I suppose my next step is to try some epoxy and that anti-leak junk. Then, if necessary, and it well may be, replace the freeze plugs.
**** That really is a lousy assed approach to a repair.
It isnt an ethnic slur at all. What would you prefer he say? Working on the ground like a sand flea?
Maybe you need to stay in an academic environment.. I am not sure that you could change a Welch plug in the real world. :>)
I'm glad there's such an expert here!
Yeah, it may be the 'expert' is right.
But I've had motors over the years that the freeze plugs went with time, with nothing else wrong. I've had two vehicles with 200CID 6's that in both cases the read freeze plug went. In both cases a big screwdriver got the plug out easily, and in went an 'expandable' plug. Problem solved.
Forget the epoxy - and the stopleak will not do the job for long - and when KT lets go you will likely have a gusher. Either fix it or park it.
Stop leak additives are for emergencies. Anything actually effective is absolutely guaranteed to clog the heater core, at minumum.
240,300 are for trucks. Cars got the 144,170,200,250 depending on year and model.
"hls" wrote in news:X snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
I know you could get the 427 in a 67 stang as one of my shop mates had one back in 76. KB (you might call it just a tad tight fit though)
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