Anyone know what the most likely cause of the check engine light coming on for a 96 Chrysler LHS? Oil is fine. Coolant is fine. Outside temperature is 4 degrees this a.m., although car had been running for more than an hour. I was sitting at a light and the car was vibrating up and down slightly (like when your sitting on an overpass in a high wind). Owners manual indicates the check engine light is for something in the emissions control. Any know more specifically what may be the most likely cause ..before I take it in for analysis?
Chk engine light? 96 Chrys LHS
Jan 23, 2004
12 Replies
Go to autozone and they will scan codes for free. Let us know what code it pops... Could be O2 sensor or egr or a variety of things.
Good possibility is the common intake manifold gasket failure, most likely around cylinder 5 (middle cyl on pax side). OBD readout will most likely be 12, 43, 55. Spray carb cleaner around intake manifold and listen for change in engine speed.
Good time to have the fuel rail o-r> Anyone know what the most likely cause of the check engine light coming on
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Wanna try again?
Wouldn't that be number 4? LHS have longitudinally mounted engines. I believe chryslers are like old GMs Odds on drivers side, evens on pass. with number one on driver front...At least I think my 92 Ramcharger is this way. The 318 is almost a copy of the smallblock chevy..without the power..
Passenger side center on a 3.5 would be #3, but cylinder #5 is usually the one that eats the lower intake gasket.
Not even on the Generals best day...
He's asking about a Chrysler 60* V-6 which is numbered differently than a 90*
And your Ramcharger has what in common with an LHS?
I hope Mr. Lacker isn't too busy to take over here.... I'm laughing too hard!
UPDATE: Well, praise the Lord. After being assured by my local auto tech guy car was drivable, but to just bring it in for a codes check, I went out on a couple of errands later this a.m. and the check engine light turned itself off! I think with the 4 degree temps here, the fuel injectors dumped some excess gas or a sparkplug misfired, triggering an emissions hiccup of some sort. Car runs fine about 750 rpm and now seems to be idling better too. Will continue to watch. Thanks for the comments.
Ice crystal temporarily hold an injector open maybe? May be good idea to get a dump of the codes anyway.
M.Burns wrote:
? Gas filler cap loose or becoming worn? A loose one will trigger a check engine that usually resets when the computer gets a round tuit.
Or get the car to tell you. Turn the ignition on then off 3 times, ending up with "on" and then count the flashes of the check engine light. Full instructions here:
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Yup.
Or GMs are like Chryslers :-) Either way, Fords are the ones that are different.
.Except that a) its better in every conceivable way, and b) the "A-block" Mopar that the "LA" 318 is based on predates the SBC. Just like the Barracuda pre-dated the Mustang, but nobody remembers that correctly either.
Without the power of connecting rods shooting out the side of the block SBC style... :p
Now how the heck am I supposed to live up to THAT kind of build-up? Somehow I don't think my comment about power of rods shooting out of the block measures up. I guess I could point out that the small-block Mopar has a better rod ratio, more bearing area, harder block material, a more stable valve train design, better overhead oiling, and better heat rejection capacity than a small-block Chevy, but is it really worth it?
:-)
I take it that you like mopars.... All that said about 318s being better than small block chevys.... What percent of people would pick a 318 over a 350 chevy? I guess it might depend on which part of the country you are in....Now 305 turdmobile engines..... not much difference.. I cant stand the old 318s before the 91 magnums and NEVER a carb old one... I have a 92 Magnum 318 that runs very well and has a lot more power than I expected.... I kind of wish it was the 5.9 but oh well.
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