cupping tires no challenge?

He should have been embarrassed for assuming that the shocks were ok solely because of the low number of miles on them.

My thoughts exactly. Lots of shocks probably don't make 15,000 miles. Looking for leaking oil on a shock is all that some people do.

Robert Zawarski is right though. Not all tires are worth putting on the wheels.

I have had bad Goodyears, worse Firestone.

Surprisingly, I got some good Kelly Springfield under Discount Tire's house brand some years ago.

People like you should be embarrased for telling people it is never a manufacturing defect. In that case Sears exchanged the tires for a set of BF Goodrich TA's (plus upcharge) drove them 38,000 smooth miles with the same shocks. In the case of the 442, I drove the car 20,000 more with the original shocks and then changed to Bilstein gas charged, What great shocks. I haven't seen anyone definitely prove cupping is caused be worn anything. Just because manufacturers and Experts (read trying to sell you repairs [that is not to say the customer doesn't need the repairs]) say cupping is due to poor mechanical maintenance does not make it so. Along with the repairs you sell the customer new tires and the manufacturer is absolved. They will never take responsibility for anything! Bob Zawarski

Show me where I said that, topposter . And there are no people like me .

Why not? I went through the same thing with a set of Borbet alloys on my old Scirocco, I calmly explained to the guy that if i had to choose between driving under 60 MPH and having a few sticky weights show on the outside of the wheel it was a no brainer, and I couldn't be happier with the results.

nate

I had the shop I bought the tires from check the balance the following day. They were a bit snooty about it acting like I was asking them to recheck their work (which I was). They said they couldn't properly balance the tire because it didn't have a lip to install outer weights. But never offered to install stick on weights.

I wasn't satisfied with the tire shop I bought my tires from so I took it to another shop to see if they could do anything with them. I purchased the rims three years prior from another shop and they have never been right.

As you can tell, I've had allot of problems with tire shops and just bee bop around until I find someone who I think is not screwing me around.

The second shop puts stick-on weights toward the outside but it's still not right. They said they had to install 3 oz of weights to get it "balanced".

The thing is outer edge of the wheel is so wide, the weights are actually 4" from the outside of the rim. They are almost in the center of the wheel. If this was a front wheel drive wheel, then perhaps stick-on wheel weights might work.

It was also suggested that the reason the wheels are causing problems is because it's not the right wheel for the car. It's a 68 Ford. The bolt pattern is correct but the size of the hub is smaller on earlier Fords. Later model Fords have larger hubs so the wheel actaully rests on the hub instead of the wheel studs. I'll buy that because my Jeep used a Ford bolt patten and were allot larger. Yet it was a 4X4 it had automatic hubs. I don't know if that makes a difference.

This might make sense on the fronts but there is nothing other than studs on the rear for the wheel to rest on. I think..

I'm emailed the company "Pacer" and explained my problem but they have yet to reply. I will call them directly. Their website doesn't list a number but I'm sure I can find it.

The bottom line is there is allot to consider when purchasing aftermarket rims if you want the car to drive like it's not falling apart.

OK what is the problem with using adhesive weights and placing them midway between the sides of the wheel? With as many alloy wheels as there are out there rolling around surely there must be ways to keep 'em stuck in place. I use NAPA weights and sand a clean spot on the wheel where the weight is going to be, then clean it thoroughly with lacquer thinner , shape the weight to match the radius of the wheel and press it in place. Is there a better way? TIA Clint

All I know is when I had the wheel/tire balanced for the third time with stick on weights it made no difference.

is there something to older Fords using smaller hubs with later model Ford rims with bigger hubs throwing the balance off?