Dakota update:No smoke!

I let it idle for 30 minutes. Smoke went away. I drove it in my field and no smoke. Thanks guys for all your help.
Now all I have to do is figure out why it wont idle when cold. I will
start and run with the foot on the gas when cold but let off the accelerator and it dies. Until it gets warmed up, then it starts and runs normal.
DO I need to turn the distributor to adjust fuel sync?
I replaced the engine coolan temp sensor with a new one from autozone. (The old one's electrical connector broke when I took the mannifold off.
There are no check engine lights. No overheating.
One last thing there is a toolbox in this truck I would like to use but it is locked and I dont have a key. There is a number on the lock, it says CH509. ANy ideas?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
news:ea715e54-4e3a-4201-b7ea-

If you know what company made the toolbox, you can try to contact them. Better still, I believe this was your brother's truck - is it possible to get the original from him.
If push comes to shove, drill it out and replace it with a new one.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Congrats on getting it going.
double check all vacuum hoses. Did you ever remove the Idle Air control valve?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
stryped wrote:

It may not have anything to do with fuel. The distributor rotor needs to point at the correct tower to a fair degree of accuracy. If it is not indexed fairly accurately the spark is forced to jump a large gap inside the distributor. If it is off by enough it my even feed the wrong wire.
    Also check for manifold leaks and vacuum hoses that are leaking g or incorrectly hooked up.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

.
eaking g or

Never removed the idle air control valve. How do I check for leaks at the mannifold? How do I make sure the distributor is turned right?
By the way, if I check the codes on this, will it show any if the check engine light is not on?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

o
e
re.

leaking g or

.
,
One way to check for leaks is to spray some carb cleaner (or even a spray bottle with water in it) around the intake etc. If the rpms change you found your leak.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

ld

ll

d
to

ide

wire.

re leaking g or

ne.

ck,

Would an intake leake cause it not to start/run without pressing the gas pedal when it is cold, but run normal and start normal after the engine get a little warm?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
news:23d4c3c5-e8b7-4299-9643-
Would an intake leake cause it not to start/run without pressing the gas pedal when it is cold, but run normal and start normal after the engine get a little warm?
****** Intake leaks can cause all sorts of problems with idling, starting, etc. So the answer is overwhelmingly "yes". (I am not saying you HAVE and intake leak, mind you)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Engines with feedback systems (oxygen sensors) will experience INCREASED idle in the presence of an air leak. The PCM will sense the increased air and feed more fuel to keep the mixture correct.
All I really know is Honda. Honda's engine management feeds the engine copious amounts of extra air and fuel when cold-starting and running. It slowly shuts off the extra air as the engine warms, which results in less fuel as the PCM adjusts the mixture to suit. Maybe you have a similar system, which is not admitting enough air?
Go to the store and get a can of starting fluid. Spray some into the throttle body (butterfly held open), then quickly run to the driver's seat and try to start. Does the engine fire up?
Plus, nobody should be working on any modern engine's ignition system without a timing light. Do you have one? You should. Ignition timing that's way off will cause all kinds of problems, up to and including possible engine damage.
--
Tegger


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

t
's

I have a timing light but my understanding is timing is not adjustable on a 2000 Dakota but that turing the distributor affects fuel syncrinization.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
news:c95baabc-f52d-4909-b424-
I have a timing light but my understanding is timing is not adjustable on a 2000 Dakota but that turing the distributor affects fuel syncrinization.
............ Timing is controlled by the PCM on that one, I think, but you adjust the cam offset using a scan tool and turning the carburetor.
Glad you stuck with this one and got it back together... Was a real learning experience wasnt it?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

cam

ing

Yes it was (and still is).
By the way the battery is shot and i have to jump it to start it. This could not cause my cold idle problem could it?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
news:63e80b1d-8caf-48f2-a2a3- Yes it was (and still is).
By the way the battery is shot and i have to jump it to start it. This could not cause my cold idle problem could it?
***********
The computer has to relearn the settings which will make this vehicle run best. If the battery were dead, then these settings are in never never land.
You need to clear the codes, with a good battery in place, and run the car until the relearn algorithm is set.
Dont borry trouble. From the Bible, "Sufficient unto the day are the evils thereof", meaning dont borrow trouble... Go step by step.
You have obviously done a good job. Now, finish it, deliberately
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
stryped wrote:

Yup, easily. That engine has to relearn the proper idle fuel flow rate every time you start it if the battery is bad.
Get a good battery, Start it and run it around a bit. Then shut it down. Let it cool down and see if it still acts-up. If it does then you will want to put a scan tool on it and adjust the fuel sync.
--
Steve W.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote in message

Steve, I said you had to turn the carburetor.. I need some Alzsheimers medicine.
Of course, I meant to say that you turn the distributor.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
HLS wrote:

I saw that but figured your just an O L D guy....
I'm pretty sure Stryped knows there ain't no carb on there...
--
Steve W.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
HLS wrote:

I've tried turning the carburetor in the past and the engine would always run worse! Plus it's not as easy as it sounds...
--
Toyota MDT in MO

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

o
e
re.

leaking g or

.
,
If you have previous codes in the computer they will need to be cleared. Unplugging the battery won't clear them either. You'll need a code reader/eraser tool. Just because your engine light isn't on doesn't mean that their aren't any codes stored. Erasing the codes won't make your truck run any better, but will let you know if their is a problem if another code shows up.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Oh your O/2 sensors are probably no good since the antifreeze has contaminated them.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That most likely is caused by a dirty throttle body, try cleaning it.

Locksmith could probably cut you a new key.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.