Engine/Trans removal Toyota 4wd

You might consider cutting the top of the radiator support out. I have done this with a few cars. Makes getting the engine w/trans out much easier. Weld the piece back in after the engine/trans is back in place.

Chas Hurst

Yes. 3V-ZE, 22-R, and RE.

If you're using a basic garage-size cherrypicker, you'll want to: remove the wheels and lower the vehicle onto wooden blocks. No kidding. You'll find it is a lot easier that way, both with the cherry picker and for you.

Otherwise, an overhead beam in a shop or barn, and a chain hoist, works quite well. Remove the hood.

good luck! GTr

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If I put the front end on blocks it looks like I only lower it 8 or 9 inches. Is it more the angle of the lowered truck that helps? If it is, it seems like driving the back wheels on to ramps may help also. I only have access to a cherry picker.

Thanks for the advice.

The angle and the lowered height help a lot more than you would initially think.

I don't know about putting the rear end up on ramps; though I would encourage the use of ramps over jackstands, so it might not hurt to try.

I should have also mentioned: if you don't have fender covers, at least use some old blankets or rugs to protect your fenders and front grill as you're working.

good luck! GTr

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Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.

Funny you should ask.....

I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine. Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of "just right". By the way, good luck...

Charlie

Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in situ. The pan comes down easily.

I pulled the engine for a number of reasons. 1. I have a gravel driveway and don't particularly like lying on my back on the gravel for an extended period. 2. I didn't know exactly what was causing the horrible knock from the bottom end and I knew that if I had to pull the crank (I did by the way), that I'd much rather do it with the engine pulled and on a stand. And 3. I knew that with the mileage showing (approx. 200,000) that a clutch change was in order. P.S. - the ring gap was within factory specs - even with 200,000 miles on the clock!

Thanks for the info. I am concerned about pulling them both together because of the length of the assembly. It looks like the length of the engine/trans/shift/transfer case is around 4 to 5 feet. The 2wd is shorter. A standard cherry picker lifts to a height of about 72" and I was thinking of using a balancer which would lesson that height. I just don't know it the cherry picker will lift it up high enough.

Did you have a problem with the height or length of the assembly?

Also the motor has 177 k on it and I was thinking of replacing rod and main bearings. I have seen rebuilding kits available with new pistons, rings and bearings for about $200 to $300. When you replaced the rod bearings, did you replace the pistons,main bearings and thrust bearings? Or do you think channging pistons would be wasted?

TIA Larry

You proabably have to pull the t-case first.