Front and rear windows hit each other.

You should be able to adjust them for a tighter fit, although it won't be easy. Pull the inner panels off and there are slotted adjustments. Loosen the bolts, move the window, and tighten back up. Not too tight though... they have to move up and down and fit the top without burning out the motors.

Thanks. They don't look like they need adjustment. The front window is parallel to the rear window. They come up to the same height.

They overlap the right amount.

The windows are not loose.

The problem is that they, maybe just the rear or just the front windows, still move, left and right I think, when going over bumps, and the front and back bump into each other.

I have a friend of a friend who works for Toyota, and I'll also talk to anotherr dealer without him, and I'll also have a friend ride with me and try to figure out what is moving, and I expect I'll find it, but I'm not optimistic about stopping the motion. There is a lot of leverage from the height of the heavy windows.

Never had this before. Not a problem in the winter, but expecting more annoyance and disappointment in the spring.

Looking at the design there isn't anything you can do. The glass is unsupported and that lets it flop around. The new cars are made very light and this causes the problem. The old vehicles you list had thicker stiffer glass, stronger tracks and stiffer larger guides. I'm betting the solution you're told is "put the glass down when you put the top down, it's a convertible"

Do you think a Sebring would be more like this Solara, or more like the LeBarons that preceded the Sebring?

Thanks for replying That is really bad. I hope they don't have nerve enough to say that. I did put the windows down more when I started, iirc, but it's probably when I started listening to talk radio** that I needed more silence to hear what was said. Also in the spring and fall, it's cold without the windows up.

It sounds like this project will be more difficult than the others on my list. I'll have to start sooner than I was planning.

I will talk to Toyota first, but there are many ways to skin a cat. A bracket that goes between the rubber strip and the front window, that includes a spacer, to force the windows apart, so they can't bounce apart more, might work. Maybe I could attach it to groove that holds the rubber strip, so it folds out when needed.

This means I have to find and defeat whatever lowers the rear windows when the top goes up or down. I wish the factory wiring diagrams I bought were better. They don't include everything (They don't include the circuit that keeps the top from going up or down when the car is moving more than 2 mph, On my previous 6 cars, GM and Chrysler, every wire was shown) , but I can probably find it, even if ti takes longer without a diagram. What a pain.

I've also noticed that the arlarm remote, both of them, only work to about 20 feet. The after-market alarm I installed in my other cars was good for 150 feet, and I could be in my house and turn the alarm on if I forgot.

Plua with the alarm I installed, which was bought before this car was made, I coudl arm the alarm before the last door was shut. It beeped differently to remind me a door was open, but after I filled my arms with stuff and pushed the door shut with my backside, the alarm fully armed in 15 seconds. This alarm won't arm at all until the doors are shut, so sometimes I have to lay things down, arm the alarm, and pick the things back up.

Plus the things I listed months ago.

I couldn't have found all this out in a test drive, and I don't think they rent this model around here. Darn.

Thanks again.

So they don't do this with the top up? This says to me that the top is actually adding rigidity to the chassis. If you insist on driving with the top down but windows up (I can't say as I understand that, but whatever floats your boat) you might need to add some kind of chassis stiffening brace if such is available for your vehicle. Typically those are things that are added to sporty-type cars and/or off-roaders, not sure if such is made for a Solara.

nate

Sub frame connectors. Essentially a steel tube to connect the front and rear frame rails. Welded in with the top up and the car's weight on the wheels if the top up condition is what is desired. How the car's uni-body is loaded when they are welded in will have an effect on the result.

Just lower the window until they stop touching. Too simple a solution? I would never let my glass hit against anything else - that's just asking for trouble.

The problem isn't body flex related. The windows are VERY easy to deflect with just a finger touch.

If you remember the way the windows on the 82-90 G bodies flopped around when they were partly down these are the same way. The glass is very thin and the only real support for them is a thin strip of rubber between the two windows and the front edge of the glass on the front window.

With the top UP the glass is supported by the top seals pressing them down and out and holding them steady. With the top down the support is gone, especially for the rear window. Plus given that the car is 12 years old and the window channels are probably worn out, the guides are worn and the tracks are probably in tough shape as well the window motion is almost a given even if it was the coupe which has a real support frame for the glass. Now with just the thin rubber strip you're going to get motion.

Hah, yes I do remember those. A girlfriend of mine back in the day had a Monte and you pretty much drove it with the windows all the way up or all the way down... if you left the window cracked and forgot to roll it up before shutting the (long, heavy) door, you'd immediately regret it because the glass would wobble ominously and you were always afraid that it'd break and/or fall out of its track...

nate

About the same situation from looking at a couple on the lot. The rear glass has only the tracks and rollers to hold it steady with the glass up and top down. The one I dropped the top on had almost 1/2 of play at the top of the glass.