Hard Brakes After Brake Job

If there is air in the brakes, as you are driving the first time you hit the pedal it will be pretty "soft" and go down further than normal. As you pump it, the travel will go down... only to repeat this cycle every time you try to stop.

If the pedal travel does not get less as you pump several times or feel spongy on first apply, it could be that the shoes just aren't close enough to the wheels. Dimly recall they can be adjusted with a tool and the drums on, but I only worked on chevvies of that era.

Back the thing up a few times - these are self adjusting - star adjusters. The hard pedal may be due to the thing being back to where it should have been , and you're just feeling it now. If the pedal is hard to push beyond that, look for binding in the pedal to master cylinder path, or bad vacuum to the master cylinder

Andrew

L>Roscoe Coaltra>

If the pedal is just hard (with no excessive travel, which would point to brake adjustment) then perhaps the braking surfaces just aren't worn in.

When I first do a brake job it takes quite a few stops to get the former braking that I got on the worn out brakes. And this is just one axle. I imagine it'll be dramatically worse when all 4 are brand new.

How long has it been like this? Have you been driving it for days and it's still doing it?

Not to put in a shameless plug for Autozone, but they sell their brake hardware kits at a pretty good price. (I'm sure other stores do too, I just happened to get mine at Autozone) If I remember right, it was under $10 per axle, and it included just about all the hardware that is used.

Check the adjustment on the master cylinder push rod. If you have it too long the brakes won't release.

You can check this by looking down in the master cylinder while having some one press gently on the brake pedal. If you see a "squirt" from the bottom just as the pedal is pressed, the adjustment is most likely OK.

If you don't see a squirt, take the master cylinder off and adjust the push rod length shorter. I'm sure there is a spec on the rod length, but I don't have it.

Careful you don't put your fact too close to the master cylinder or you may get on eyeful of brake fluid.

Where did you buy this "new" master cylinder?

If you have air in your brake lines then your brake light should come on when you brake. Does your brake light even work? Have you checked it?

I checked hardware and replaced as needed. All self -adjusters are working. I adjusted each wheel when I did the shoes to barely spin - you can hear a light high rubbing sound occasionally as it spins off the ground as the drum hits a high spot on the shoe.

I used to do drum brakes all the time 30 years ago, just got a little rusty I guess. Never paid any attention to idiot lights, especially on a '67 model that is 35 years old.

I will check the travel on the mc push rod as it was supplied with the mc - maybe too long. Then I will rebleed mc and go over the rest of the system again.

From an 'older "mechanic" with gray hair' (BTW---I liked that.): ensure you've got the shoes mounted in correct order--remember most likely there is

1 long & 1 short shoe on each axle. Putting the wrong ones on fronts of axles will cause just what you describe. I *think*(remember gray hair impairs memory.) the longer ones go on the front & shorter ones on rear of axles. HTH & good luck, sdlomi

Actually, If the wheel cylinder is on the top the longest shoe goes towards the rear of the backing plate with the shorter shoe towards the front. The longer shoe provides braking when the car is moving forward and the shorter shoe provides braking when traveling in reverse.

I've seen them installed every way possible...

You're so kind! See, told you my hair was gray!!! Thx for straightening me(us) out. s