HELP: 93 Toyota Corolla vibration problem! (2025 Update)

I read through most of the posts before responding.

It is very unlikely that a master cylinder is causing the problem, and it is unlikely that a misadjusted push rod is causing the problem unless someone messed with the master cylinder or pushrod.

It is possible, but not likely that a bad wheel bearing is causing the problem. Wheel bearings generally make a lot of noise before getting bad enough to actually cause a problem.

A wheel or tire that is out of round either laterally or radially will cause a vibration, but not likely that the vibration will come and go and it will not make the wheel hot to the touch or bind the brakes so that is not high on my list.

A bad CV joint will make noise, cause pulling, or fling grease all over the undercarriage before it causes an intermittent vibration and will not make the wheel hot to the touch or bind the brakes.

If replacing the calipers did not change the problem, I would have guessed a bad brake hose.

I read that you are replacing the front calipers, make sure that the slides are free and coated with disc brake grease or anti-seize.

Where are you located?

Our resident Toyota resident lashed out at me for saying that was the LEAST likely culprit. Because this is coming in snippets as opposed to a full story, I have to work with SOME assumptions. Among them being that with new tires that the rotors did NOT appear discolored or gouged, there was nothing apparent about the pads. Perhaps giving credit where it isn't due - that a competent dynamic balance was done. Next stage would be to have the rotors MIC'd just to be sure they are round in both planes. Look at the spindle closely. If the spindle is clean, have somebody check out the CV joint and shaft.

Did you replace the calipers? Check the pistons for pitting? Sometimes an improperly installed o-ring on the caliper pistons can cause intermittent problems.

If it's only one wheel, I'd strongly suspect the hose. Second choice would be frozen up mounting hardware causing a single piston caliper not to float freely. A booster, master cylinder, or pushrod adjustment issue would show up on at least two if not all four wheels.

He checked the hose. That's not it.

Did you note he checked that?

From the description it COULD be the caliper, BUT I would look at the CV joint. A bad CV could cause the wheel to build heat. Again it is what is most likely. At this point I'd pull the caliper apart first. Look for contaminants especially by the pistons. You may wish to put kits in both calipers. Make sure it is BALANCED. There is also - I THINK - not being a Toyota expert - a proportioning valve somewhere right/left. If the left side is not doing its job - the right works double time. So you can't ignore the other side. Could be that the left caliper isn't working at all or poorly.

It could be the proportioning valve it could be the master cylinder, and it still can be a CV joint. It is also possible that the new caliper was rebuilt wrong.

On older American cars yes. The Japanese have had much better CV joints than American makes especially 20 years ago. I'd look awfully hard at the LEFT caliper. Something tells me it isn't working right, or your master cylinder is not well. It seems like we are chasing a phantom.

Here is something to consider. You have confined your investigation to the right wheel. I think you need to look at the other side as well. There is a proportioning valve there somewhere. I don't know where it is on the Corolla. It can be bad. Sometimes you need to bleed the brakes several times. It can be contaminants, pesky air bubbles that hide and take several tries to get rid of.

Here is a problem with older cars. They get the laying on of hands all over the place. Some folks who know what they are doing, and sometimes little Billy Shafto at his daddy's lube place. Billy may NOT know the difference between radiator coolant and brake fluid. All he knows is they both go in a car somewhere, so what difference does it make? Sometimes it is carelessness. Some quick lube places use illegals. So - over 15 years who know who all has had their hands on your car? Shadetree mechanics. This isn't easy because it can be so many things. Say a BADLY rebuilt caliper, or two of them. I was in the parts business and we bought REBUILT calipers. You'd be surprised how many were BAD. I'd say we returned at least 20% of them. Same with other rebuilt parts. I am trying to think of any rebuilts we didn't have returns on. On calipers completely missing o-rings, wrong size o-rings, twisted o-rings. Badly pitted pistons.

So you never know what it really is till you find it, and then you tell yourself THERE is where you should have started. UH HUH! Often you are chasing the problem. Put one new part in and another older one fails. You think it's the same problem but it is just transferring down the line. Still, for the fun of it, replace the bearings.

I don't think he's saying the brake are locking up exactly. He can look at TIRE WEAR. He said he could feel some resistance, a flaky CV joint would dissipate horsepower. The point is that CV joints can fail in several ways, not necessarily making loud noises.

Just as likely the driver's side is bad, or BOTH.

Replacing the calipers did change the problem. He finally revealed the problem started after he changed the calipers :)

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KRP, I don't know if replacing both is a good idea. But hte strange part about all this is that I can be driving along just fine, with no drag. Then it will start to drag progressively and get progressively worse. You will notice more and more gas pedal effort needed to move the car. At its worse, the car will not move forward from a stop at idle. But the funny part is, if only one side was locking, wouldn't the car pull to one side? It is not pulling to one side however. But only one wheel is heating up.... strange eh?

KRP, I will have him double check that CV on that side on thursday when i bring it in. Thanks :-)

Thank you to everyone that has helped me thus far. These symptoms aren't new... but just better described than previously. Please review:

1. Brake drags occasionally not all the time and the dragging can start without the use of the brake pedal (once i was driving on an empty highway at 3AM for 30 miles, and it just started dragging).

1. once the drag starts, it gets progressively worse. I'm not sure if the heat causes it to lock up more, or if it just locks up more and causes more heat (Chicken or Egg?) But you can feel that more and more gas pedal effort is needed.

2. at its worse, there is so much drag that the car will not idle forward from a stop.

1. drags on local roads OR highways... but on the highway there is enough heat to cause the tire to overheat and vibrate. On local roads this much heat is not built up, but the right front wheel is noticeably hotter. The left one is a normal temperature, although it is warmer than the rear. But i would expect this since the fronts do most of the braking. The drums apply less stopping power, correct?

2. things replaced thus far: new tires, new rotors, new brake hoses, system was bled and all new brake fluid was put in. None of these have solved it.

Any further insights would be helpful. If any of you guys live in southeastern mass let me know. Maybe you can take a look in person... thanks again for your help thus far.

-jon

Could it be that one of your brakelines is near a heat source, and that the heat is causing the fluid to expand and activate on of the front calipers, and the opposing rear caliper or drum? (You might never notice the rear brake if it were a maladjusted drum or suchlike)

Maybe a shield is missing near the exhaust or something like that?

Just trying to think outside the box a bit.

I will add one additional possibility that I personally experienced on an Acura TL. A bad upper ball joint caused ALL the symptoms reported here on that car - hot wheel, apparent warping of the rotor, chattering brakes, all of it.

Back at ya!

Here is my point. You have warranty on both calipers. If one is bad both can be. But beside that we don't KNOW which one is bad. It COULD be either. If you want to chase a rabbit all over the field that's your choice. You could replace the right caliper and find you still have the problem. Then the left and find a problem again. The brakes are engineered to work TOGETHER. In balance. You want them as much the same as is possible. You see, I don't know FOR SURE where the problem is. None of us do yet till we find it. I just think it is unwise to replace only one caliper. It can be (not that it IS) that it culprit is the LEFT caliper, not working at all or right, making the right assume more of the load. Granted the car should pull like hell if that were the case, but cars are funny and they don't always do what you expect. If they did, all repairs would be easy and it would in and out of shops in 5 minutes.

I still think the problem could be in several places. I am not convinced it can't be any of the bearings. Or the spindle. Or the CV joint. What you have here is like that damn gopher game like at Chucky Cheese. You knot they stick their heads up and you whack them with a padded mallet? Then they pop up somewhere else. I can't look at the wheel, at the spindle, rotors, etc. I can't take a mic to them. All we can do here is keep GUESSING till you find it. there are many things YOU can check. Get the wheels off the ground and see if they have any play in either side. Look at the spindles. Roll the tires to see if you hear any sound. Like a scraping sound. Try to bleed the brakes again and manually ADJUST them. Or have the mechanic do that.

It's only a GUESS. Check it for play. They don't always leak.