how do I remove my alternator?

Jul 14, 2007 9 Replies

'93 F-150, 300 I-6, I have removed the two bolts that appear to retain the alternator, how do I actually remove it? I can't really see (it's one of those things where I guess once you see it apart you know what you have to do) but it appears that there might be a long sleeve through the bottom of the alternator that is holding it in place, is this true? what do I have to do to get it free of the bracket? I actually have a Haynes but it is no help, I've ordered the factory books but they are not here yet...



I thought that American vehicles, especially trucks, were supposed to be easier to work on than others... but I am beginning to disagree...



thanks,



nate


Going on memory here...

I think that you'll find the "pivot" ear of the alternator is surrounded by the engine bracket. This should be a tight fit, and there is probably a press-fit bushing in the alternator or bracket that clamps down when the pivot bolt is tightened. It will not release adequately when the bolt is loosened for the alternator to just fall out. Pry at this point with any manner of leverage you can, all the while swinging the alternator back and forth on it's pivot point until it works loose.

Original though = 0 Current assesment = 1 where "others" = asian and "others" can not = european (binary logic reply)

Toyota MDT in MO

If you haven't already removed the wires connected to the alternator, get some masking tape and wrap a piece of the tape on each wire (before removing each wire) and use a ball point pen and mark where each wire goes.The alternator will either come out from the top of the engine area or you might need to get under the car and remove the alternator from the bottom. cuhulin

Why? The wiring is all unitized plug ins.

You shouldn't ever get wireing all mixed up on anything.Always mark on tape or paper where everything goes. cuhulin .............................................................. I am going to move that toe! I am going to move that toe! I am going to move that toe! .............................................................

He's still thinking of the kinds of vehicles I'd rather be working on... y'know, ones with "armature" "field" and "ground" connections :)

BTW the solution to my problem was a big pry bar. Apparently there was just enough corrosion that it was free to pivot but wouldn't slide out easily.

In my defense I'd like to point out that on my Porsche, the only vehicle I own close to as new as this truck, using a big pry bar unless you know exactly what you're doing usually results in spending lots of money.

nate

Last time I removed the alternator from my 1978 lonnnnngggg wheelbase Dodge van, I couldn't remember where those wires went.I won't ever forget again.

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cuhulin

I have a big crowbar and a very long Railroal prybar I will loan you if you need it. cuhulin

You're kidding, right?

Three connections; BIG eyelet= output stud. Rather obvious.

2 female connectors=field (brush) terminals. Also rather obvious.

Almost impossible to screw up (almost).

Like I said, it's all molded plug ins.

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