How do I remove my alternator?

Never mind, I got it out... apparently it was held to the sleeves by corrosion and would rotate but not slide... a big pry bar was the solution.

Of course, the alternator tested OK, so I still need to find why my voltage is dropping off so severely at idle, although cleaning the alternator connections seemed to help a little - a couple more ground connections are still as they were from the factory however.

In my defense, I'd like to point out that I'm used to working on German cars where using a large pry bar unless you know exactly what you're doing usually ends up costing you lots of money.

nate

That explains everything, the Mercedes fumes have gotten to you ;-) Keep in mind that in Germany Mercedes is nothing more than a taxi. When you tighten the main bolt it puts a squeeze on that sleeve which is a bit of a press fit in one end of the alternator. Ford went to that design about

Whitelightning

I feel compelled to break the news to you, the same is true of American cars and trucks. A large prybar applied to the wrong place can be a very costly mistake.

On Sat, 14 Jul 2007 19:26:21 -0400, Nate Nagel rearanged some electrons to form:

Bad battery?

I've found them to be more forgiving, at least the really old ones which are my basis of comparison (50's and 60's Studebakers, mostly)

nate

Don't know, but at least I got the terminals cleaned off... haven't seen any signs that it's not holding a charge, anyway. There's at least two ground connections that I have not cleaned yet.

nate

You need to take it somewhere that can test the system all together. Your battery may be holding enough charge to start the vehicle, but still be pulling heavy amps because its weak. Anything pulling heavy amps is going to cause your voltage reading to be low at an idle. And by low voltage reading what do you mean? Less than 13 at idle, less than 12? Does you system use a large connector with three wires, 2 about 10 gauge, one about 14 guage that just plugs into the alternator, or are the main leads connected with a nut to a stud? The first type go bad over time, Ford says to replace the pig tail when ever the alternator is replaced and the leads have to be soldered, not just crimped. Most all parts store carry the pig tail, which also comes with shrink tubing to insolate the the splice area. All you need is a soldering iron, non acid based flux and solder to replace it.

Whitelightning

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 08:41:51 -0400, Nate Nagel rearanged some electrons to form:

What is the voltage at the battery at idle, high speed, and engine off?

That was my point. It is not safe to make the same assumption today.

One of the ways they get better fuel mileage out of any car is to make it lighter. One way to make it lighter is to reduce the amount of materials needed. A result of less material is the loss of a bit of structural integrity. A result of reduced structural integrity is that you can go willy-nilly prying on stuff.

About 13 flat, sometimes a little less, as measured at the battery terminals with my fairly new Fluke. Off idle it seems to maintain well over 14V. I expect this behavior from an old car with a generator, but I don't consider a '93 to be an "old car."

The former. I was not aware of this, good to know. I did spray some terminal cleaner on it and pack it with some fresh sil-glyde, but I wasn't aware of the recommendation to replace them. I'm guessing the truck is all original, and obviously 14 years old...

got all that, if I can't find it elsewhere I will give it a shot.

thanks,

nate

normal running voltage seems to be about 14.5V, but if I load it down at idle (A/C on, blower running, radio on, headlights on) it will go down to about 13 flat or maybe even lower. Engine off is about 12.5V

nate

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 15:51:06 -0400, Nate Nagel rearanged some electrons to form:

How old is the battery? If it's more than about 4 years old, the plates may have some sulphation on them, and the internal resistance of the battery may have gone up. If it's that old, have it tested, or go ahead and replace it.

Haven't a clue; bought the truck very recently and the battery doesn't have a sticker with punched-out date on it.

nate

On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 17:20:47 -0400, Nate Nagel rearanged some electrons to form:

Then, take it over to Autocrapola and have them test it.