3.8L motor? The starter comes out with just two bolts but you may have to
move the transmission lines out of your way to gain clearance. Likely they
will be corroded in the nylon saddles and you may end up with leaks
afterwards. Not to be offensive, but removing a starter is a pretty
straight forward piece of work. Since you're asking it seems you're not too
familiar with this kind of thing. You might consider buying a Haynes manual
to assist you. Given that you have at least a decent chance of ending up
with leaky transmission lines you might consider letting a shop do it.
You'll be getting into more than you might want to deal with if you have to
Thank you Mike, it may seem straight forward to you because I'm sure you've
worked on many cars and that's why you're here giving advice. I have read
the last posting that I made and I could not believe the hostility it
caused. The person that is working on my (LvThyTigers<---she, not he) car
has fixed cars for a long time but has never seen a setup like this one
before. The starter looks very different than most and larger.
I wish I could be of help, but have no experience with that exact unit.
I have a 90 Reatta that may not be too far from what you are seeing. It
looked intimidating at first, but I pulled the splash pan off the bottom
of the car to gain access and although it was tight, I could get to the
bolts with a socket and extension. It was easier than it looked, but I was
up on jack stands in a warm and dry garage. If yours was the car covered
with snow, that would be intimidating (at my age,anyway)
I replaced the starter on my 95 Regal myself about 2 months ago and I
had to remove the air conditioning hoses to get to it. Once they were
off it was still a hastle but doable.
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 11:29:56 -0500, "LVTHYTIGERS"
When I removed the starter off my mom's Cadillac the trans line were in
the way on her motor a, 5.7 V8.
A Chevy mechanic friend advised that after you pull the bolts out and
disconnect the wiring turn the starter into a vertical position and it
may clear the trans lines and drop straight down. The trans lines on
mom's car bulged out slightly toward the front of the starter and that
was the clearance needed to get the starter down while it was in a
vertical position - but in a horizontal position there is no way the
starter would drop straight down.
This might work on your car - but I'm not sure.
05 Park Avenue 36,055
91 Bonneville LE 306,123
First, with regard to shims. If the starter did not make that
screeching noise over most of the starter's life and then developed it
now, shims are not the answer. The drive became sluggish or flywheel
teeth became damaged. Don't add shims unless it had shims. Of course
someone who owned the vehicle before you may have left shims off. Most
don't have shims. Like your other post, you provide no background to
provide accurate help.
Second, some way some how, you better inspect every tooth on that
flywheel with the starter removed. Look at them and also feel for a
burr on the edge of each tooth. If there is one you should remove it
with a small file or with a rotary tool very carefully. You can save a
flywheel that's pretty bad this way as long as teeth are not missing.
I don't know if the starter made that sound before because the person who
sold it to me was a dealer who never really owned it. I know, my bad.
There were shims already there when I got it. Thanks for your help, we'll
check out the teeth carefully.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.