It's an older Chevy. Occasionally the key didn't want to turn, but enough jiggling and I could get it to start.
Now it's every time, and I'm never sure I'll get it.
Would spraying lubricant into the keyhole help, or make it worse?
It's an older Chevy. Occasionally the key didn't want to turn, but enough jiggling and I could get it to start.
Now it's every time, and I'm never sure I'll get it.
Would spraying lubricant into the keyhole help, or make it worse?
Tim R wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
it wont hurt anything but dont expect it to help much. the key may be wore out or the tumbler cyl is. but try the lub first. KB ps if you have another key try it first.
Better to use powdered graphite (or a dry lube stick) applied directly to the key.
I'm wary of powdered graphite. Sometimes it can cake into dried mud.
I tried all three keys. All have the same problem. It acts like when the steering wheel is in the wrong position, preventing the key from turning. But if we play with it enough eventually it frees and turns.
I put a drop of STP on the key and tried that. It improved the action greatly, when it isn't stuck. It doesn't seem to have reduced the getting stuck.
You're putting a load on the latch of the steering wheel lock. Rotate the steering wheel until the pressure is relieved and frees up the ignition lock.
yep on my antique car I turn the wheel about 2 degrees to the left and then the key moves just fine.
Nils K. Hammer
he steering wheel until the pressure is relieved and frees up the ignition lock.
I've had cars (Fords) where you had to shake the steering wheel when the ke y locked up like that.
If I push on the key, the lock will go in a short distance and then turn to the accessory position. It won't go immediately to start, but once it's i n accessory getting it into start is usually quick. I think the lubricatio n helped, it's sticking less now and turning more easily.
I used the same stuff (STP) on the rear view mirror. My wife broke it off
- the glue let go from the windshield. When I re-glued it I realized both ball and socket joints were very hard to move, so I put a drop of STP on ea ch and worked them until smooth. It adjusts easily now.
Hello, and while I can't add/refute anything to the responses to the OP I wanted to add that I've found silicone spray to be an excellent lubricant for tight lock cylinders and keyways and it doesn't cake up like graphite. The other plus is that one application lasts quite a while. Sincerely,
Follow-up: the small amount of STP must have eventually worked its way through the lock, and now we're having no issues.
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