I have used charcoal briquettes on many occasions.
I carry a hibachi or steel garbage can lid and fire it up to start my vehicle when coming out from a camping or fishing trip in -40 or so temps.
You have to be careful with it, but it will start all the vehicles in about a half hour under the oil pan each. We get one going and pile in to warm up while waiting on the rest.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Inanimate objects do not feel wind chill. Silly to go to that concentration of antifreeze.
I agree with the spirit of your post that wind chill factor's are just some silly bullshit for weathermen use to sensationalize the weather situation. All I personally need is the friggin dew point and they can keep the rest of the crap. ;)
Do you consider a "warm house" and "inanimate" object? Wind chill effects those. :)
Alvin in AZ ps- family and friends make fun of me... I'm the "what's the dew point?" guy :)
Have you verified this by actual measurement? Only convective heat goes up. There's still conduction and radiation to transfer heat to the handle. Might be getting pretty hot.
%mod%
An iron is a simple resistive heater, AFAIK.
%mod%
Why not just park it next to a tank of propane, then you wouldn't even have to worry about the pile of lumber.
%mod%
They lose heat much quicker when wind is blowing. That is why blowing on your food is effective. And 70/30 antifreeze is perfectly reasonable at very cold temps.
%mod%
I'd bet that once the few kilograms of warm oil encounter the several tens of kilograms of ice-cold aluminum and/or cast iron engine with several kilograms of ice-cold water/antifreeze in its cooling circuit, the result is ice-cold oil.
The warm oil sitting in the pan may have begun to warm the crankshaft above it, but I'd guess that such is as much "heating the block" that any heater stuck in or to the oil pan would do in a reasonable amount of time. Warming the oil is a noble cause, but methinks that heating the rest of the engine via the cooling circuit will net better overall results.
%mod%
concentration
I hate messing around with cars - ever since I got out of school and got my first job, I've paid someone to do the routine maintenance. But way back in the departed days of my youth, I did all the routine stuff myself - including changing the coolant in the fall to prepare for winter.
In those days, the jug the antifreeze came in had a chart on the back, showing what temperature various concentrations would freeze at. As I remember, you had the greatest protection if the mix was 50-50. Pure water and pure antifreeze both froze at a higher temperature than an equal mix. And if it's a consideration, boil over protection was also reduced compared to a 50-50 mix.
Before you up the concentration of antifreeze, check the jug. You may be reducing the level of protection as you throw money away. Or maybe not - it was several decades ago, and product formulations have probably changed.
Yabbut, now you gotta remember not to iron your clothes on a steel surface.
Yeah, this thread is getting way too long for the subject matter. The OP should just get an in-line heater at jcwhitney.com
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Obviously, yes, they LOSE heat much faster as the wind transfers heat away. However, the actual TEMPERATURE of the object does not get ANY colder than it would with NO wind. It just takes longer to bottom out if there is no wind. Period. You are wasting your money if you put in a stronger AF solution on that account.
That is 100% correct whether anyone believes it or not. Bob
I live in southern Canada and a 50/50 mix will still turn to slush here.
It is only good to about -40.
A 70/30 mix is good to -70 or so.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Why not suck the oil out with one of those marine oil changers when you park? Bring the oil in and warm it up before starting. Add the warm oil and you're ready to go.
Actually, here in Edmonton, 60/40 is more common. I'm happy if my coolant routinely tests out at minus 45.
Yes, if there is a temperature difference.
Ehhhhhhh (wrong answer buzzer sound;)
Evaporation of water does -much- more to cool the food than the wind chill factor. Cover some hot food with saran wrap then blow on it if you can't see it and need it proven.
Sure as heck don't know nuthin about that! :)
Alvin in Arizona
- Nehmo -
Besides, I
- modervador -
The handle is cool to the touch when I remove the iron after a couple of hours of heating.
I'm using a more modern iron now. I discovered the old one that I was using was a sought-after antique.
- modervador -
- Nehmo - The handle is designed to stay grabbable while the iron is at top temperature. The plastic (and I don't know what kind) used doesn't conduct heat well.
Why won't you post your insurance agents comments about your "idea"?
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