Leave the "Max. Cold Pressure" figure OFF the tire sidewalls period, since more than half of
drivers, vehicle owners, and even supposedly "ASE Certified" mechanics first look there for
what to adjust tire pressures to. Not kidding, leave it off!
Instead, next to the maximum load weight in pounds & kg, inscribe: 'REFER TO VEHICLE
MANUFACTURER TIRE PLACARD OR LITERATURE FOR APPROPRIATE COLD TIRE
PRESSURES' on the tire sidewall, so as to remove any doubt.
The bursting inflation on tires made since the '90s is probably 50-100psi above any pressure
the car makers are likely to specify anyway, so why list a Max. Cold number, since it's not
near the bursting pressure anyway.
On the topic of where to put the maximum cold pressure...
When I fill a tire on a passenger vehicle, I read the placard on the door
jamb, and then I usually pick a number I want, where I don't necessarily
follow the placard if it's not "high enough" for me.
What I mean by that is I use my own judgement based on the _range_ in the
placard, which I never take as gospel.
As an example, on a bimmer, they specify different values (by only a few
psi usually) for front versus rear (just as they specify minus 2 degrees
camber for the rear). To hell with that. I use the same value, usually in
the high end of the range, and I lessen the camber to as neutral as it will
go in the rear (for tire wear considerations). I don't race so I don't need
the cornering traction they're seeking.
On a SUV or van, I still use the higher range, e.g., if they specify 36PSI,
I'll use 39PSI to 42PSI, where I don't worry about a few pounds (the gauges
don't even read within a psi anyway and there's the accuracy &
repeatability issue to contend with on any "typical" $5 tire gauge).
If it's visible, I "might" look at the tire sidewall, but there's almost no
chance that the tire sidewall max pressure is even going to be attained,
but it _still_ needs to be on the tire, IMHO, just like the maximum weight
a bridge can handle should be posted at each end of the bridge.
Why wouldn't you want to follow the recommendations set up by BMW themselves, tire pressure
offset & their alignment?
After all, they did pay engineers to do the work that went into deriving those pressures and alignment
angles on that vehicle? Not to mention test drives by both professional drivers and presumably
members of the buying public, before finalizing those specs.
See, that's the 'MIBy'ism(More-Is-Better) that I have long since rejected. I'll admit, I'm a relative
newcomer to the stickers adhered to the door posts of motor vehicles.From 1987 to around 2000,
I inflated my tires to the Max Cold Pressure on them, PLUS A LITTLE! Yeah, young n dumb you
could say, lol!
But once I discovered what was really on those mysterious placard stickers, it was an epiphany!
Suddenly, my cars felt like cars again, and I was able to really enjoy driving, not just bouncing down
the road, hearing the squeaks and groans of my car's body and frame, and rattling of the suspension
from waaaaaay too much air in tires.
Do I believe in going just a *little* the pressures on the door placard? Maybe 1-2psi or so, and mainly
in winter. For me, any more than that, and the ride harshens, and the steering becomes too darty for
me(I prefer some heft when turning the wheel off center).
>If it's visible, I "might" look at the tire sidewall, but there's almost no
>chance that the tire sidewall max pressure is even going to be attained,
>but it _still_ needs to be on the tire, IMHO, just like the maximum weight
>a bridge can handle should be posted at each end of the bridge.
You might not like my answer.
HINT: The engineers at BMW don't care one bit about "my" tire wear.
And, as Xeno is well known to quite accurately state...
o The engineers provide a _range_ where there's a _reason_ it's a range.
If you corner like a banshee, then minus two degrees rear camber is great.
o But if you care more about tire wear, then 0 degrees camber is just fine.
As for tire pressure, as they say in the Pirates of the Caribbean...
o They're just "guidelines"...
In almost all passenger vehicles, I like my pressure higher than nominal...
o For reasons Xeno is well aware of (extreme tight slow speed cornering).
And, I like my camber closer to neutral (caster also lower than nominal).
o The _range_ is what matters (and the maximum & minimum, of course).
As long as you don't get close to the maximum & minimum in the range...
o You make your own decisions where you like things within the range.
Always keeping in mind no subsystem stands alone and unaffected.
I'm not sure why you claim that since it's obvious they "pay engineers".
o Those engineers specified a _range_ for a reason.
As long as you don't exceed the max and min, you're within the range.
o I'm not sure what your argument is...
Are you claiming they don't specificy a range?
o I don't understand your dislike of the range they specified?
It's _never_ a single number & certainly never without measurement error.
Please don't put words in my mouth that I didn't claim.
o I didn't hint at that. I didn't say that. I didn't think that.
It's a strawman we'll spend the rest of our lives debunking.
o Do not ever claim that I claimed that "more is better"
Just because I may choose the high end of a range for a given spec.
o Just stop that silliness.
Tires have evolved since we first started driving in the late fifties and
early sixties, where bias ply tires are completely different from radials.
For _today's_ passenger tires, IMHO, under "normal" conditions, I keep the
inflation and alignment aimed mostly at tire wear considerations over
"comfort" considerations, and certainly over "cornering like a banshee"
Hence my specs are set to the "I drive like a little old lady" range.
However, if you wish to set your specs to "I corner like a banshee" range,
I'm not going to argue against that, as long as you corner like a banshee.
Likewise, if your inflation is set to "I haul lumber every day" range,
then, again, I'm not gonna argue with your inflation set to a hauling
Hhhhmmmmmmm... they're not "mysterious" to me, but to each his own. :)
To me, I mostly care about the torque of the lug nuts (bolts on the
bimmer), more so than the pressure in the tires.
Given air pressure never leaks in, and given I don't bother to check for
months, and given the aforementioned "I drive like a little old lady"
style, and given I care more about tire wear, I put the pressure on all my
sedans at around 30 to 45 psi, give or take a few, depending on my mood.
If I'm going on a long fast trip, I may inflate them higher and if I get
lazy over time, I might let them drop down to around 30 psi, even as BMW
specifies, as I recall offhand, something like 29 psi on the fronts (I'm
not gonna go outside to look).
Basically, 30 to 45 is what I use, depending on how I feel at that moment.
Bear in mind, I mount, repair, and balance my own tires, so when I'm
actually setting the bead, I go way above that pressure, temporarily.
o Questions about mounting & balancing new LT tires on new steel rims
at home (match mounting marks, red dots, yellow dots, & spacers)
I strongly suggest you skim that thread, and look at the pictures, for
example, which show that we inflate & balance tires within a "range".
Wow. I don't generally believe in "miracles in a can", nor in a tire:
o Motor is wheezing, as if it's breathing - why?
There are no "panacea" solutions, where "air pressure" isn't gonna solve a
whole lotta problems with cars "bouncing down the road", or "squeaks and
groans", or "rattling of the suspension", in my humblest of opinions.
As long as you don't underexceed or overexceed the range for the tire, you
can do whatever you want to do. Nobody here is gonna stop you.
But if you think any one number is a panacea, I'll just state that it's
You can't even measure to a psi accurately, I don't think (dunno, I have to
check too much to ascertain that so I simply assume that for now).
Plus, air never leaks in, so, it's always _less_ than what you put in it,
and, even then, air leaks out differentially so it's not even nor could you
repeatedly measure it enough to ensure it's even (within a few points
If you like what's on the placard, then all the power to you though.
o But don't chastise me for using 30psi to 45psi if I wish to. :)
OK. I hear you.
As I said, about the only time I "read" a tire is when I'm replacing it.
o Otherwise, it's about 30psi to 45psi for a passenger car tire for me.
I assume you realize that I can "read" the specifications on a car tire.
o And, certainly, I'm well aware of how passenger tires are manufactured...
o How Tires are made
For me, I inflate them to 30psi to 45psi depending on the vehicle, the
presumed loading, the presumed driving, the temperature, etc.
It's not gospel; it's simply an understanding of the tradeoffs.
I understand you have an issue with what they put on tire sidewalls.
Personally, I prefer _more_ information, not less.
For example, how do you mount your tires with respect to the red & yellow
dots that are printed on the sidewall of almost all new tires?
I should be more clear that when I'm setting a bead, the pressure isn't my
main consideration, so sometimes I go above and have to let out air, but
just as often I'm below, and have to add even more air.
It all depends on how hard it is to set that bead, where every make and
model of tire seems to be a bit different in my humble experiences.
Overall, SUV and LT tires are generally harder though, than smaller sedan
tires, in my experience, where I use as much or little air pressure as
needed to set the bead. (I still need to invest in the blast bazooka.)
Agreed, about the range in alignment specs.
For me, I prefer to keep what adjustables there are on my car as close to the middle of that range as possible. And I NEVER aim for "zero" on any alignment angle - unless zero degrees happens to be right in that middle of range of a given angle. If the toe for each rear wheel on vehicle XYZ is specified as
0 to +0.5deg(in), then I'll aim for +0.2-0.3deg - NOT zero.
If Camber(front or rear) is adjustable and is specified as +0.5 to -1.0 deg, I'll aim for -0.25deg - the MIDDLE of that range. Most modern aligner software is set up to guide that tech in that fashion anyway.
The only area I might go aggressive on is Caster angle: as close to the maximum positive attainable - I want that bastard to track as straight as possible and resist my steering effort.
But that IS "More-is-Betterism", even if you don't inflate your tires to their max cold pressure.
Most folks you ask like their TV pictures brighter than recommended, or calibrated(think: wheel alignment for your TV - a service I provide at $50/per set)
It's America Arlen: Bigger, Bolder, Brighter, Louder, More More More! More air in the tires, Faster! So don't take it personally when I rant on that point.
Like I said, using my early ignorance of the vehicle sticker, and keeping my tires filled to max plus 5psi,I was a MIBy Extraodinaire, once. I've matures since those days.
Welcome to 2020, Arlen: Tire gauges are available, for $50 and under, that are certified accurate to 0.5% of maximum reading. So on a 0-100psi gauge, the error is only 0.25psi with a reading of 50psi from a given tire. Half a psi if measuring 100psi, though the gauge maker themselves will probably recommend a higher-range gauge if you do that often.
Using 30psi, if the placard recommends 32? Or 33psi? that's considered within reason. But some folks out there, even with OEM size replacement tires, stick 40psi cold in them, for God knows what purpose.
Depends on what that information is. Like I said, Give a pump and a gauge to any average Joe or Jane, tell them to air up the underinflated car outside:
I'd bet the farm you check their work afterwards, and you'll find those tires inflated at or close to what's stamped on THEM as opposed to what's readily available information if they would just OPEN A DAMNED CAR DOOR and LOOK ON THE B-PILLAR, or gas lid, or owners manual.
It's just human laziness Ar, a desire to just get something done as quick as possible, with little or no thought. That's what gets churned out of schools these days, at secondary and collegiate levels sadly.
So again, on the soccer-mobile, the car-pool Odyssey, and even the weekend Corvette, remove the max-cold pressure, so idiots stop using that number to set their tires! Instead, in just a few more words, instruct these bozos - some with ASE sewn to their shirt - WHERE TO LOOK to find proper inflation information.
If I were a garage, mounting new tires on a vehicle, I'd overinflate by 2-3 psi because #1, it's probably middle of the day when I'm servicing the car, and #2, that car didn't fly here - it was driven - so pressures will be a little on the high side from that. By tomorrow morning, for the customer's drive to work, the pressures should be at approximately what's listed on the door placard. But I'd never inflate a customer's car to anywhere NEAR the pressure listed on the tire!
Just researched it: Mount rubber to rim so the yellow spot is aligned with where the valve stem goes. Common sense! Yellow spot is the lightest part of the tire, and red, the heaviest - or high point, even thought they might not be located 180deg from each other on given tire.
Learn something new every day, thanks Arlen! After posting this, I might just go out and see where my P7s sit. LOL!
Damn skippy! ;)
Yes, close to max inflation pressure on tire is typically needed to
seat most tires to their rims or wheels. Understood. **FOLLOW-UP TO 'RED AND YELLOW' MARKS:
On my P7s, now on my car for three months, I can still see faint half-
to one-inch yellow dashes on all four, all within one inch of the
inflator/TPMS position on the wheels. There is a blue dash elsewhere
on each tire - I assume those are the heavy/hi-points. Some mfgs use
different colors for that indication I guess.
Thanks for your input, as I hadn't really thought about it all that much.
Thinking about it further, I'm gonna agree with you even though I intimated
When I set a bead, I lubricate with dish detergent, and then remove the
valve core, and then I screw on a modified airgun so that I can press the
trigger to get air in but I don't have to hold it as it screws perfectly
onto the Schrader valve.
When the bead pops for the second or third time, and I check that it's
even, I stop pressing the trigger.
Then I pop the air hose off the modified airgun, and then I quickly twist
the modified airgun off the Schrader valve and in that process, the air
starts shooting out of the now wide-open valve stem (because there is no
I quickly grab the bare core of the Schrader valve and screw it in, using
two hands, one holding the valve core (so it doesn't fly away) and the
other hand twisting the special core driver tool until the air flow stops
and the valve core is seated lightly.
After that point is the first time I actually _check_ the air pressure,
where, almost always, I have to put a bit of air _in_ to get it to the
desired 30 to 45 psi.
Given that's the process, I actually have no real idea _what_ the pressure
was at the moment the bead seated itself. :)
It could be 40 psi; it could be more, it could be less.
o It never really mattered to me before, so I didn't even think about it.
I'm aware that tire burst pressures are likely far higher than my 220VAC
20-gallon Sears Craftsman compressor can go to, so I'm not worried all that
much about the tire exploding in this process of just seating the bead.
I would avoid dish detergent if I were you. It generally has a pH that
is on the acidic side and you don't want that lingering on your steel
rims. I used to use Ph balanced pure soaps that have a pH around the 7
mark. You allow one bar to soak in some water until it turns into a gel,
then apply it to the bead area.
FWIW, I don't use dish detergent to wash my car either, preferring to
use car specific wash products that are neutral pH - definitely not
It is roughly what I used to do.
In most cases, I found it to be less than 50psi
About 125psi is the limit of most portable compressors. Some shop
compressors can go a bit higher but neither will achieve the burst
pressure of a tyre.
Just to be clear: My concern about "maximum pressure" in a tire has nothing
to with mounting/seating pressure. But everything to do with which source
people(like my younger self!) went by, and continue to go by, when adjusting
the tire pressures on their daily drives(to work, school, church, vacation, the
And has been suggested here, if not implicitly, that the actual bursting pressure
of a tire is, depending on its size, and probably rate of inflation(how quickly air
is put in it) is at least 50psi HIGHER than the 'Max cold pressure' stamped on the
tire. If not even 100psi higher than that marking.
There is a huge public misperception that if you inflate to even 1psi(6-ought kPa)
beyond that Max Cold designation, you're inviting an explosion - either while
filling the tire, or back out on the road - of that tire. And that has been proven,
in many ridiculous YouTube videos, not to be the case.
So for just those two reasons: Driver/consumer/mechanic ignorance(some mechs),
and the actual astronomically high burst pressure, I see NO REASON to list a
"Max Cold Pressure" on tires designated for non-commercial private passenger(and
*some* cargo) use. There is a gray line there, because some official agencies
(police, medical) and commercial entities(liveries, cab cos.) do employ many of
the same vehicles, or variants of, as do the public.
Victoria and Taurus Intercepts, for example. Customized versions of the same
workaday large vans we see driven around by self-employed plumbers and other
contractors. How do we ensure those operators aren't over- or underinflating their
Now I'm in the States, where knowledge is, at least over the last four years, NOT
cool, and ignorance reigns supreme, sadly. So I don't know if this whole 'door sticker
vs tire' pressure is an issue just here, or if such debate rages on as much in other
Funny you should mention that!
When I picked up my 2010 Accord three months ago, well detailed inside
and out, clay-buffed exterior polishing, etc., I noticed something odd about
the exterior glass:
When I squeegeed the morning dew off the windows, I noticed something:
It was as if my squeegee(and I have more than one) was riding a thin
layer of *something* over the glass! After a pass of the squeegee, the
glass was dry, but there were almost oily remanants and the outlines of
thousands of droplets of water still on the glass.
Now, in May, most of that has worn off, especially in the obvious location
where the wipers take care of the windshield. But what WAS THAT all
about? I never got a car back, in my lifetime, from a washing/detailing
where the outlines of water droplets remained on the glass, even after
using NAPA pro auto glass cleaner over it.
Did the carwash that my dealer has a relationship with have an issue
with the balance/quality of the water at their location? High metal content?
PH too high or too low?
That was not the issue with the paint though. Aside from the usual minor
scratches and dings expected on a ten year old car, the water three months
later still beads and rolls right off, just by moving the car. But that glass??
Thank you for your kind and informative reply, where I defer to your
knowledge on tire mounting (since I have had no formal auto mechanics
training after high school in the early sixties) and since I love learning
more (there is _always_ far more to learn!).
I do have quite a lot of formal training in college-level chemistry, where
I'd be shocked if typical dish detergent is acidic (almost all saponifiers
However, your point is still that it's _not_ neutral in the least.
o This article, for example, claims they're generally a pH of 8 to 11.
I agree with you that we probably want a pH around 7 (e.g., water) if we
don't want the inside metal to be affected by what remains inside.
Looking up how to make tire bead lubricant at home, I find:
o How to Make Tire Lube
Where they suggest "body wash" with "mineral oil" or "vegetable oil"
(but not petroleum-based oils).
Second hit (same site apparently)
o How to Make Your Own Tire Changing Bead Lube
They use dishwashing liquid.
Third hit, a forum general discussion apparently:
o What do you use for bead lube when mounting tires
The answers came back 'soapy water' mostly but one suggested
"Ruglyde - Napa #765-1338 about $12.00 a gallon" and another
suggested "Murphy's Oil Soap".
Fourth hit, another forum:
o Mechanical/Maintenance Forum > Tire bead lubricants
Again, soap is often suggested, but someone did mention
"soap will corrode wheels", where the Ruglyde and other
commercial solutions were noted, and one person suggested
Amazon first hit:
o Purple Power (3920P) Tire and Rubber Lubricant
I understand that you feel they shouldn't even put the maximum cold
inflation pressure on the sidewall of a tire...
I think perhaps maybe there are different kinds of people...
a. Those who make decisions strongly based on facts
b. Those who make decisions strongly based on intuition
While almost every decision is a _mix_ of intuition and fact, what I'm
ascribing to your issue with the max pressures is a combination of the two,
where some people defer more to one than to the other.
As an example, I'm extremely well educated, so I'm rather well aware that
even brilliantly smart people (e.g., Einstein) were proven wrong when they
used only their intuition (he was right in a lot of stuff using only his
intuition but he was wrong about half the time also).
None of us are smarter than Einstein, and yet, he was dead wrong about half
the time, where he, himself, said his "greatest blunder" was what we now
call the "Hubble constant", which, interestingly, he _predicted_ in a
sense, intuitively, and yet, his intuition got the better of him in the
My point is that intuitive people are wrong about half the time, and yet,
they're right about half the time - which is what I think plays a key role
in why you're kind of upset about these maximum tire pressures.
It seems throughout your life, maybe, apparently, perhaps, people have
intuited more into that number than you found to actually be the case.
I don't know your background, but perhaps a salesman intuited one thing,
and perhaps a mechanic intuited another, and perhaps a neighbor intuited
one of those, and perhaps you, yourself, intuited something else, etc.
My position is that half of you intuited wrongly, on average.
My position is that the people you should trust are, in my most humble of
opinions, the _least_ intuitive people you can find. I'm one of them, by
the way, in that I don't trust my own intuition one stinking little bit.
I can't tell you how many times, for example, I intuited the ice would hold
when I was a kid crossing a frozen pond, and I was wrong. Or how many times
I intuited the hurricane wouldn't hit my campsite, where I never did find
half my equipment thereafter, or when I intuited that the tree branch I was
grasping on a cliff would hold my weight, which landed me in the hospital,
The people you want to trust are those who don't trust their own intuition.
On Usenet, unfortunately, it seems that the vast majority of people are
those who trust their own intuition more than they trust facts to the
However, even those who trust facts can be burned.
For example, the home-repair group knows I carbonate my own well water,
where the burst strength of a typical 1 liter cola bottle is around 190 psi
(I called the company who makes them) so I set the gauge at 40 psi (you
only need about 25 psi to carbonate water but I wanted it a bit faster).
Unfortunately for me, I accidentally somehow had a runaway gauge (I still
don't know exactly what happened), where, at the very moment I realized
that the bottle was too taught, it exploded and slashed my wrist (luckily
it was a clean slice, as if with a razor, according to the nurse who sewed
The point is that I should have checked my facts, where, in this case, the
setting of 40psi was wrong in some way, shape, or form.
Yet, I don't blame the bottler, since I've bottled hundreds of bottles, and
that was my one and only accident with the burst pressure, but rest
assured, they will burst, just as tires will burst, if you get that
pressure high enough.
Excellent introspective on 'intuition', and, sorry to hear about your
bottling incident, and having to learn about over-pressurizing the hard
That said, I'm not sure what of which side of 'intuition' you find my
concern regarding the 'max. cold pressure' on consumer tires.
While I recognize the reason why it's there, and have driven vehicles
in the past with tires at max cold pressure or higher, my more recent
driving experiences(since 2000) have been far more pleasurable,
comfortable, and predictable, with pressures closer to, or at, the
vehicle placard end of that range of possible inflation pressures. And
my goal in suggesting removing the max inflation number is to help
steer drivers, and some techs, toward the correct inflation reference
point: somewhere in or on the specific vehicle itself.
So where does this "intuition" fit in with regards to my idea?
I think maybe perhaps possibly you intuit that the max cold pressure has
more meaning than it actually does.
By way of contrast, I'm not even going to _intuit_ what "I" think it means
since I don't even trust my own intuition.
Worse, I don't think I've ever _cared_ about that number; so, as you saw
with my setting the bead, it never even occurred to me to worry about it.
Nonetheless, I don't like being clueless about a number printed on the
sidewall of a tire, so, allow me to look up facts about that number. OK?
OK. Here's the first hit...
o TIRE SPECS EXPLAINED: MAXIMUM INFLATION PRESSURE
"A tire's maximum inflation pressure is the highest "cold" inflation
pressure that the tire is designed to contain. However the tire's
maximum inflation pressure should only be used when called for on
the vehicle's tire placard or in the vehicle's owners manual."
"A tire's "maximum inflation pressure" may be different than the assigned
tire pressure used to rate the tire's "maximum load."...
These unique tire pressures will be identified on the vehicle placard
or the vehicle's owner's manual."
Second hit, where it's instructive to note it's last on the list:
o UNDERSTANDING THE NUMBERS ON YOUR TIRES
"maximum cold inflation pressure... might be different from the inflation
pressure recommended for your vehicle by its manufacturer.
That's because the maximum cold tire inflation pressure stated
on the sidewall only indicates the greatest pressure permitted
for that tire. It doesn't state the optimal pressure for a tire
mounted on a particular vehicle - that is found on a placard mounted
on the vehicle or in its owner's manual."
Third hit is a NHTSA brochure on tire safety:
o NHTSA Tire Safety
page 12: "Max. Load Single kg (lbs) at kPa (psi) Cold
This information indicates the maximum load and tire pressure
when the tire is used as a single."
page 12: "Max. Load Dual kg (lbs) at kPa (psi) Cold
This information indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when
the tire is used as a dual, that is, when four tires are put on each
rear axle (a total of six or more tires on the vehicle)."
page 3: "it is difficult to obtain the recommended tire pressure
if your tires are not cold.)"
page 4: "The recommended tire inflation pressure that vehicle
manufacturers provide reflects the proper psi when a tire is cold."
Fourth hit doesn't cover the "maximum"; only the "recommended"...
o Cold inflation pressure
"Recommended cold inflation pressure is displayed on the owner's manual
and on the placard (or sticker) attached to the vehicle door edge,
pillar, glovebox door or fuel filler flap."
I should note there were a lot of "book" excerpt hits, which were mostly
regulatory, and which contained good information; but I'm not sure that the
links will pan out the same for everyone given how Google Books works.
For example this had a horribly long cryptic link so I screenshotted it:
o Maximum Cold Inflation and Load
"The sidewalls of all passenger tires are marked to indicate
the tires' maximum load capacity and maximum cold
inflation pressure. It is important to remember that the
maximum inflation numbers on a tire is its maximum inflation,
not its recommended inflation. Tires should never be inflated
beyond their maximum rating."
OK. I generally stop googling when the information does two things:
a. There's nothing new with each hit, and,
b. It repeats over and again, ad infinitum, the same stuff.
OK. Now armed with facts, let's go back to your question...
Seems to me it's pretty clear what it means...
o Just as it was pretty clear soda bottles are tested only to 190 psi
After that number, I'd have no idea what's gonna happen, so...
o I would simply strive to never exceed that number.
I wouldn't intuit any more... or any less... into that number.
Thanks for preaching to the choir, as the saying goes, with that
Empire State Building tall trove of information regarding the maximum
tire pressure listed on tires.
You and I both know and understand most of it. But for every two of us,
there are 198 others that DON'T. That means 99 IGNORAMUSES PER
every Arlen, and 99 CLUELESS DIMWITS for every 'K-Man', that don't
know and probably don't care. If the majority of people don't even know
how to vote for a president, why would we expect them to know which -
the vehicle placard, or the tire - contains appropriate pressures for
their vehicle?? Your expectations of what the average person knows,
about anything, are above altitudes beyond which one can safely breathe
without supplemental oxygen.
Again: it is for that vast majority of Ignoramuses and Clueless Dimwits
that I recommend not including any inflation pressures on consumer
tires. Instead, stamp literature into the sidewalls instructing people
where to obtain proper inflation pressures for a variety of applications
with the specific vehicle the tires were put on.
I don't disagree.
In the early days (my first few tires), I didn't use _any_ lubricant!
o But then, I didn't even know about the drop center in those days.
Oh how young and stupid I was when I was in my late 70s!
And, in the first half dozen or so tires I didn't even have a dedicated
bead breaker (I only had the flimsy attachment to the tire changing stand).
Until it bent.
Every tool is useful, and every tool serves a purpose, even the lubricant:
o Bead breaker (do not use the attachment on the HF tire changer)
o Tire changer (do not even think of not bolting it to the cement!)
o Valve remover (more useful for pull-type valve insertion than removal)
o Valve core driver (I can't imagine _not_ having this $2 essential tool!)
o Extra tire irons (you're not supposed to need them, but you just might)
o Vise grips (the HF tire changing bar twists too much in your hands)
o Balancing jig (the HF one works rather well for normal hub diameters)
o Lubricant (whatever floats your boat - I use Costco green or blue stuff)
Some "stuff" I kind of sort of wish I had...
o Professional bead lubricant & fancy brush
o Bazooka bead blaster (so I don't need two people on the loose SUV tires)
o Professional steel wheel weight removal hammer
o Professional round studded grinder attachment (for repairs)
o A better assortment of wheel weights (HF only sells the stick-on style)
o A better assortment of patchplugs (the ones with the wire you pull thru)
o An airgun
The lead issue is probably why hammer-on weights are becoming scarce, and not
just in California. That, plus I'm sure a lot of newer tire techs are hammering any
type of weight on to any material(aluminum, steel, composite, etc) of rim or wheel.
There is a difference you know.