Justifying an impact wrench for infrequent hobby use

It may not be the best product to use, but it does do what it says.

----------------------------------

Sure it does, just like Slick 50, Turbulators, Restore Engine Treatment, Fuel Tank Magnets, Enzyte, Dowsing Rods ... the consumer can always trust the producers prodcut label.

WD40 rarely works in that capacity. PB Blaster, Kroil, etc are designed for that purpose.

Yes, for normal people who don't have a clue.

So in your usual fashion Mr. Beam, you just make things up. I made no statement about "exhaust fasteners". I talked about large and small fasteners and using the correct impact tool based on the size of the fastener. For instance, I had to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield from my mazda. It is held to the exhaust manifold by some M6 or M5 screws with a 10mm head. They were so rusted that two of the three I had to use a 3/8in socket to grip them. I used PB Blaster and my small electric impact driver. Worked perfectly. For replacing the control arm I used my pneumatic impact. The typical exhaust clamp bolt is just big enough to use the pneumatic on.

If you want to argue against voices in your head in the future do not assign my name to them.

Think that one goes back to manifold flappers. I've heard it's the best, but never used it except on flappers. Always soaked threads with the "usual suspects" and wire brush what I can. In the end, what breaks, breaks. Wasn't any good anyway. Only thing I try hard not to break is studs set in exhaust manifolds. If I think the stud will break, I'll cut off the nut with a Dremel, and run a chaser on the threads. But it's been a long time since I even worked on exhaust. Rather pay the shop now. I never used impact when I did it. Would have made it easier I suspect. Pretty sure exhaust shops just air-chisel most of the old exhaust fasteners off anyway.

I find WD40 useless, because in my experience it doesn't do anything well. It's just on store shelves everywhere, and the price looks cheap. Probably expensive for what you get. Nothing really. I really don't know what people use it for, but guess it's to spray on squeaks, like hinges. My wife bought a can and I tried it on various squeaks. Lasts a couple days, then the squeak is back. Pump a couple drops of clean motor oil on the hinge, work it in by swinging the door, wipe off excess with a rag, and the squeak is gone for YEARS. Why use it as a penetrating oil/rust breaker when there are products made specifically for that? BTW, when I was a boilerman in the Navy, we used oil of wintergreen as a penetrating oil. Seemed to work, but who the hell really knows what's actually making the most difference inside where you can't see what's really happening? I still soak rusty stuff with penetrating oil, bang on it, etc. But as soon as it breaks loose I want the threads oiled up with motor oil.

jim beam wrote in news:jtmku0$9lo$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

"petroleum

Jimmy your ignorance grows by the day. KB

i can't imagine anyone having a clue about your rusted threads brent.

there's a certain level of base knowledge that normal people assume. for instance, shop manuals presume that the reader knows how to use a jack, a screwdriver and a wrench. the same presumption applies to the use of power tools - don't try to eat them, stick them up your ass or use 1300lb impacts on the little screws holding down brent's recently emptied cranial cavity.

none of which is a contradiction to anything i said. well, it might be in your mind, but that's a different matter...

fortunately, i can't hear the echoing in /your/ head. but if i could, i would expect a long return time!

Depends on your intended use. For spinning off lug nuts a $20 speed handle is probably a better investment, or a good four-way lug wrench (hold it in the palm of your hand, and let it spin.)

If you actually intend to work on your vehicle and disturb fasteners that haven't been moved since the vehicle was made, however, sometimes an impact is a godsend (was wishing for one today while dropping the gas tank skid on the Jeep... doesn't look corroded at all underneath, the floor pan is pristine, but still those bolts fought me the whole way out.) Where an impact really shines is when dealing with fasteners that are still sound but have rust/corrosion.

nate

Supposed to, but there are better products for that job- much better. PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are usually available at your FLAPS and much better at the job. Kroil or Wuerth Rost Off are better yet if you can find them.

nate

innews: snipped-for-privacy@v9g2000vbc.googlegroups.com:

I know what the can says, but PB Blaster is usually sold nearby for a similar price, and does a far better job at actually loosening those rusted parts.

I've been trying recently an oiler can filled with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF which supposedly is better yet; it's worked for me so far but I haven't used it enough yet to say if it's superior to commercially available penetrating oils or not.

nate

Most people who gain knowledge graduate from WD-40 when they find out the hard way it works very poorly for this task if it ever works at all.

Notice once again when called on his bullshit, Mr. Beam goes into insult mode. Go back to my original post in this thread. I stated that one must choose the proper impact tool for the job. You objected to this, stating that just having the stronger one and WD-40 was fine. Go ahead and spray an M6 screw with WD-40 and hit it with the same impact wrench used for lug nuts. See how that works out for you. Meanwhile I use PB Blaster or better and use an impact tool that is appropiate for the job.

Then why the f*ck did you reply to my initial post in your usual insulting way? Because this is simply a restatement of that initial post. So who's got a problem in his mind?

Again, you're the one who took objection to my two impact tool recommendation in the first place. You're the one who fabricated nonsense about me making some claim regarding exhaust system fasteners. You're clearly the one hearing voices, not I.

as always, your reading comprehension abilities are close to zero. you said wd40 was not a lubricant. it is. i didn't say it was a good one. and i didn't say it was as good as other specialist products. but you're so obsessed with being an idiot, you never differentiated that.

no, that's not what i said - you can't read. see above.

if it's going to loosen, it'll just come off. but you'd know this if you'd done it for real and weren't just making shit up because you like to fight.

good for you brent. good for you. would you like a cookie?

brent, you need to learn to read and think before flying off the handle. seriously.

so, having flown off the handle with a misdirected rant because you can't read, and stoked by the fact that you love to fight, what next? oh, try to back off after someone had the temerity to call you on your shit by saying they're the one being unreasonable. right. that makes sense.

It's your comprehension that is failing as usual. And as usual your turn to insult when I expose you for what you are. I "said" no such thing. I wrote "GET a lubricant, not a solvent. WD-40 is a solvent, it was designed as a solvent. It could lubricate something briefly and poorly but so can paint thinner. But that doesn't bump paint thinner out of the 'solvents' and into the 'lubricants'.

Furthermore only some self-taught backyard type would even suggest WD-40 for the task of freeing corroded fasteners due to not knowing any better. Now keep digging your hole deeper as you have once again been exposed as not knowing better.

It's exactly what I wrote.

Wrong. It sometimes will just come off. What mostly happens is that the bolt shears after an impact or three with the stronger impact tool, just as it would with a typical wrench. The weaker impact tool keeps pounding on it until it loosens without shearing the bolt. When the goal isn't to make more problems the idea is to use the least force possible to get the job done.

You're the one objecting to it.

You're the one who flew off into insults, stop projecting.

Um a single curse word in response to your typical trolling, insults, and general ingorance is not 'flying off the handle'. I know that angering people is what gets you off so I should have self edited the curse word out, but when it comes to the behavior you exhibit here such words in the occasional 'what the f*ck' or 'why the f*ck' are quite well placed.

And what was it that you took objection to again? The fact that I pointed out to use an impact tool properly sized for the fastener instead of your dumb-ass notions of 'if it will come loose it will come loose'. You became more offended when I dispensed with your WD-40 nonsense. What next from you? Duct tape?

No competent experienced technician of any sort would seriously consider recommending the use of WD40 as an effective penetrating oil. WD-40 Versus the World of Lubricants

The April-May 2007 issue of Machinist's Workshop Magazine ran 'Testing Different Types of Penetrating Oils' on the outcome of a test of a "scientifically rusted fastener", which produced the following results: Penetrating oil type ... Average load to release

None ..........................516 pounds WD-40 ...................... 238 pounds PB Blaster .................. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench .............127 pounds Kano Kroil .................. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix............53 pounds

>

I remember seeing that, and as a result have begun trying the ATF/Acetone thing. Unfortunately the first thing that I've used it on is a very challenging application (skid plate bolts and upper shock mount bolts on a Jeep Cherokee) so I can't really tell if it lives up to the hype.

The thing that is surprising to me is that PB Blaster ranks so low, my own personal experience placed it about on par with Liquid Wrench. Maybe I should buy some LW next time I need an aerosol, if I can find it at my FLAPS.

nate

Back in the late 1970s I bought a new Sears Craftsman corded electric impac t wrench. It wasen't worth a heck when I bought it and it isn't worth a hec k now. If you want a good impact wrench, buy an air impact wrench. You will need plenty of air pressure to use it though.

>

no experienced competent usenet troll would seriously expect a 2x reduction in release torque to be ignored. unless it's a stupidity contest and they're just racing to the bottom.

which is not significantly different to wd40...

here's something the "experienced" clearly /haven't/ experienced - if you apply liquid wrench and then leave the subject for a few weeks, particularly if in a damp/humid atmosphere, you'll find that thing rusted up the wazoo. as is any componentry not adequately cleaned after reassembly. oh, wait, am i not supposed to point out stuff that's inconvenient here? sorry.

"next up on channel 7 news tonight - 'add atf to your gasoline for double the mpg's'."

it's amazing how many wonderful things atf is supposed to be able to do. eclipsed of course only by the number of successful entrepreneurs we /don't/ see selling it for these alleged wonder applications.

bottom line, wd40 is "good" at it's designed task, and not so good at others. but for many jobs, there are three vital points the retards seem incapable of understanding, and certainly won't admit now that they're so entrenched in their stupidity:

1. it is by for the most ubiquitous product in the average household.
2. it works to a useful degree for many applications.
3. it doesn't screw stuff up.

now, it's certainly not the best stuff out there for many things. there are better water displacers. there are better lubricants. blah blah blah. but as an all-round useful "tool" that happens to be cheap and easily available from a multitude of non-specialty vendors, it's utterly retarded to ignore it. particularly if it actually does the intended job!

since you clearly don't understand the use of the word "solvent" in context, i guess i'll have to spell it out to you.

wd40 is the water displacer used on the old minuteman rocket systems, and others. the "displacer" was the surfactant it contained, and the "solvent" was used to keep the surfactant in liquid form for delivery. now, the "solvent" chosen was a series of light oils because they serve a secondary purpose - lubrication. and if you don't believe, look at the msds and pull the definitions for each of the oil classes cited.

so, you're taking "solvent" out of context in two ways

1. your focusing on "solvent" as a delivery system is like ignoring the hydration effect that the water in coffee has while also delivering caffeine. and to give that proper context, you can live without caffeine, you can't live without water. and you could deliver caffeine in a pill.
2. not all "solvents" are the same. butter is a solvent for vitamin d for example. but i think the number of consumers that buy it for that purpose has to be close to zero. and i think your kids might be disappointed if you fed them "cake" made with the sugar dissolved in acetone before adding the flour [that example presumes you know how to make cake - stretching it i know.]

of course, this doesn't help the narrow-minded fixate on trying to be an incapable knowledge-resistant ass for the rest of their life, but hey, i'll just keep supplying facts, and you just keep on trying to argue against them.

says the guy that doesn't understand what "solvent" really means.

seriously, you need to get a sense of reality. every time you pick a fight, it's /always/ based on both knowledge and comprehension issues you have.

now, i guess it's impossible to get you to control your fight impulse, but if i can succeed in getting one simple thing into that density that foggily surrounds you, it's that there's a /lot/ of stuff you don't know. if someone is contradicting you, there /has/ to be a reason - and it might just be related to what you don't know. thank about that.

>>>

so what part of 238lb.ft vs 516lb.ft is troubling you? or are you one of those people that /wants/ to spend a bunch of money on some mystery potion that'll rust the crap out of your car two months down the road? and would now be an inconvenient time to ask the question about which fastener will loosen with a 325lb.ft impact driver?

um, so what kind of quantity to you think can capillary into an m10 thread on 20mm of thread length? how about when it's filled with rust?