Need your advice on a good inside automotive tire patch

Dec 07, 2015 231 Replies

Not so smart now, I see.

Better to pay somebody to do it right (particularly with safety related stuff like tires and brakes)

Different brand tires of the same size, or tires with differing wear amounts amount to the same thing. On AWD cars, and cars with dynamic traction control, you ALWAYS replace tires 4 at a time.

By "power torque" you mean "torque steer" And you are right!!

Only dealers my family deals with is Bimmer, Subaru, Acura. They do excellent jobs selling/trading/servicing. If they screw you even by a mistake, they know they will lose you to the other dealer at the other part of the city. All 3 we deal with are family owned.

The last time I repaired a tire ( punch thru of a screw which I yanked out) I bought a kit with rubber plugs and rubber cement. Greased the hole with cement, put the plug on the inserter tool, shoved it thru form the outside and withdrew the tool. That repair and tire lasted another 20K miles.

Historically I've been bad about rotating tires but have done OK with the last couple of cars. It does pay to have them wear evenly though and now that I have AWD I'll be more vigilant.

When the original tires go I'll probably get Nokian WRG3 again. I rally liked them on my last car.

My first car was a '53 Mercury. Only bought one used or re-cap tire at a time as needed.

With directional tires you just switch front to back - not a full rotate (and I've never done/liked full rotation on radial tires (or even the old bias belted tires)

I've never replaced tires one at a time - and untill the Ranger I'd never installed used tires. The alloy rims I bought for it (torque thrust style Eagle Alloys) came with a decent set of Coopers that I drove for a year, and I got a set of Hak R2 SUVs with one season of use for a good price so I put them on for this winter. Should last me for another 4 or 5 winters.

Hard to get to either from Bayerische.

Tony Hwang wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 16:00:22 -0700:

I think we misunderstood each other.

I am a typical BMW owner who mounts and balances his own tires. I know all about the red and yellow dots on most new tires.

Here is how I mounted and balanced my tires to minimize weights:

  1. I removed the old tires & all the old weights.
  2. I washed the five rims & located the match mounting dot on the rims.
  3. I located both the red and yellow dots on my new tire sidewalls.
  4. I leveled all five of the empty clean weightless rims.
  5. I placed them in order of worst to best, with worst being the spare.
  6. I chose the two best new tires for the front (yellow/red being closest).
  7. I mounted and balanced those two best tires to the two best rims.
  8. I mounted and balanced the next-best tires to the next-best rims.
  9. I mounted and balanced the worst tire & worst rim for the spare.
  10. In each case, I paired the red dot with the valve stem for allow wheels.

I then took the vehicle out for a high-speed run. Had it vibrated, I would have then taken the vehicle in to a shop to ascertain if the vibration were due to:

a. Suspension components b. Steering components c. Alignment d. Wheels & tires

What exactly do you find wrong with my procedure?

clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 18:21:55 -0500:

Again you seem to have everything wrong?

Who said *anything* about different brand tires of any size?

Are you just making this stuff up?

You're the *only* one talking about different brand tires on the same vehicle. Nobody else would even *think* of doing that, except as a ghetto maneuver.

rbowman wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 20:02:08 -0700:

Just so you understand the etymology, it never started with Bayerische.

It started with Beeser (as in BSA) motorcycle racers.

When BMW started bike racing in the UK, they called 'em "beemers".

Then, when BMW started selling cages in the USA, they called the cages "beemers".

So, the etymology has absolutely nothing to do with Bayerische.

NOTE: It's all in the millions of articles on the same topic, since this is the very first thing any BMW owner learns, even before learning Disa and Vanos and CCV, etc. (which every BMW owner also knows well).

clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 18:01:16 -0500:

Heh heh ... you totally misunderstand the Dunning-Kruger effect.

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Heh heh ... that's the kind of advice people give who are *not* on the home-repair or auto-tech groups.

I didn't ruin the tire repairing it. You simply *assumed* that because you *wanted* to assume that.

I never said that.

You clearly have an *agenda* and that agenda is apparently to tell us that we can't repair the simplest of things like tires.

Remind me to ask Oren to tell you how we select and buy and wind our own garage door torsion springs some day. Or how we compress the springs on our struts to replace them.

If you want the job done right, you do it yourself. It's not that the pros don't *know* how to do the job right. It's simply that we do it better because we delve into the details and we care about the results.

We're smart that way.

Ashton Crusher wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 17:48:46 -0700:

There's a right way to do things, and a wrong way, and both work. You did it the wrong way, and that's fine. It's your tire, and I won't knock you for how you repaired it. Both ways work.

For reference, here is a great video on the *right* way:

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Here's my summary of what that video recommends, along with a bit of research about where I can obtain the tools and chemicals at a good price and in small single-use quantities:

TOOLS:

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a. Tire repair awl b. Half-moon scraper c. Carbide bit reamer d. Cone-shaped grinding wheel (

UPDATE: My tire went flat and I drove about a mile as it was losing air:

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I brought the wheel to Wheel Works, who will repair the puncture using an internal patchplug, and they will mount and balance and rotate the tire with the spare, all for free:
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Unfortunately, the tire was ruined by my driving on it:
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They told me that they can't fix a tire with the belt showing:
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Given the tire is ruined, I decided to experiment with patches:
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Here is one type of patchplug:
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Here is another type of patchplug:
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I bought a few tools, such as the stitching tool & cement:
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And, I plan on experimenting to see which type works best:
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Here is one of the better videos on how to properly repair a hole:
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Here are the tools that this video recommends: a. Tire repair awl b. Half-moon scraper c. Carbide bit reamer d. Cone-shaped grinding wheel (

Danny D. wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 04:13:29 +0000:

ooops. typo.

Bimmers === cages

What can I say. I rode a BMW -- once. I wouldn't mind an old airhead, but then I'd have to spend a lot of time working on said old airhead. Most of the new ones look too much like a raptorsaurus for my taste.

Never drove the cage version. The closest I came was an Audi. Never buy one of the first efforts of a company known for rear engine, RWD cars to build a front engine, FWD vehicle. They must have gotten much better at it.

Same here. I've done 4 or 5 that way. Kits cost $3-10. They didn't come with a rasp when I was buying them.

In Japan both are called "bem bay", Just because different people (and peoples) use different slang doesn't make any of it right or wrong.

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