Need your advice on a good inside automotive tire patch
Dec 07, 2015 231 Replies
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Danny D.
I think most home users skip a few steps. The question is whether those skipped steps are crucial.
This video shows how to use (what they call) a plugpatch in which they use the following tools and materials:
Tools: A. Half-moon scraper B. Carbide cutter
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Danny D.
Danny D. wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 04:37:23 +0000:
Since vulcanizing cement is easy to come by, the problem, it seems, for homeowners, is getting small quantities of the two fluids: a. buffer spray b. inner liner sealer
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AMuzi
If your area has a Tech route salesman, everything you need is on his truck:
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Ashton Crusher
I think a lot of these "proper ways" are fine but are often simply driven by lawsuits. Some gas station repaired a flat tire, the guy then has an accident and blames the repair and gets paid "experts" to testify it was all because of that improperly done repair. No evidence that a "proper repair" would have changed anything of course. The same reason some tire places insist the new tires HAVE to go on the rear of the car leaving you with half worn out front tires on your FWD car at the start of snow season.
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clare
Bayerische.Motoren Werkes or smthing like that - and in Cherman that is somehing like "Bey Emm Vey"
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clare
I've seen all 3 many tomes - and even 2 tires with the same name and size can be different. There are, for instance, at least 2 totally different tires called Tiger PawTouring tires, available in the same size range - with totally different tread and totally different carcass - and different speed ratings.
Not a good idea to have one on one side and the other on the other side, or one on the front and one on the back of any AWD or dynamic traction control or whatever vehicle.
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clare
And you just daid both scoots and cages were called Beemers - - - - and many BMW owners don't know ANYTHING about the technology of their cars - all they know is the are "cool" and "better than any Jap Crap or Yank Tank".
(wrong on both counts, by the way)
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clare
I guess you have to be to drive a B#mmer. Any company that would attach the engine mounts to the block with ALUMINUM BOLTS for crying out loud. Friend's wifes BMW had the engine fall right out of it's mounts when the bolts broke. Dealer cost to remove and replace those bolts? Somrthing like $1600.
It took him almost 4 hours. It's his wifes's car - he hates it but loves his wife. He's been a racer and car guy all his life, as well as an airplane guy (pilot and builder)
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clare
And to repair perhaps, on a bad year, ONE tire, you are going to stock all that stuff (you will invest a C note pretty quickly) - and 2 years from now when you need it it will be all dried out from sitting in your garage.
Sure you CAN do it - but does it make any sense - and should you - when you can have it repaired free by someone who does it every day and is insured if he screws up??
I fix virtually all my own stuff too - but even I draw limits
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Tony Hwang
Sounds like you are better than pro(reap pro) Good for you.
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Danny D.
clare wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 18:06:06 -0500:
I corrected that typo as soon as I had seen it so you probably didn't see my correction.
Besides, who cares what people who don't own them say?
It's the people who own them who care because they say "my bimmer has been costing me a lot lately" and from that we know it's the cage and not the bike.
Everyone else wouldn't know the difference, nor would they care.
This just goes to show that people argue on the Usenet things that bother *them*, because what a bimmer/beemer is was never the topic here.
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Danny D.
clare wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 17:58:18 -0500:
It didn't come from Bayerische. It came from BSA. Did you read the reference?
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Danny D.
clare wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 18:14:41 -0500:
It turns out that the minimum you need to fix your own holed tire is the patchplug and something to scrape and stitch the inner liner rubber away (plus lineslman's pliers which everyone has).
Patchplug
Scraper/stitcher
The vulcanizing cement is very easy to come by.
The two sort-of-nice-to-have things are harder to come by though:
The smooth flute-sided carbide reamer, and,
The inner liner sealer
So, I'm looking for a local source for both of those (#4 & #5). If you have a good idea where to get them, let me know.
D
Danny D.
Ashton Crusher wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 15:27:41 -0700:
Certainly millions of tires have been plugged from the outside. I even saw plenty of videos on how to repair slashed sidewalls.
But, still, this is a repair and tech group.
We can fix things any way we want; but we should, at the very least,
*know* how to do it right.
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Danny D.
AMuzi wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 13:11:23 -0600:
Interesting. Thank you for that reference. That site has a lot of details for each fluid.
They have vulcanizing fluids and cements for example:
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However, the vulcanizing cement is easy to come by; but the black goopy final inner liner sealer (tar?) is the hardest to find on the street.
I think this is that sealer (Butyl Liner Repair Sealer):
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It's made by Tech International, 200 E. Coshocton St., Johnstown, Ohio 43031,
740-967-9015, and also listed by Chemtrec 1-800-424-9300. So I will call them tomorrow to ask where I can get small quantities and what is a suitable substitute.
The ingredients on the MSDS don't tell me much: 50 to 100% solvent naphtha (petroleum blend), light
Does anyone on this newsgroup know of any commonly available substitute for this black goopy inner liner sealer?
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clare
You sure got one thing right. Most bimmer owners WILL be saying "My bimmer has been costing me a lot lately".
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clare
I saw it later. News Servers are notorious for latency.
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clare
I always bought mine from the "wagon jobber" who came to my place of business every couple weeks to make sure I had enough valve stems, patches, cement, balance weights, and other tire supplies. Most of my working life that was REMA TIP TOP, and at one location it was Tech Tire.
I always used the cement fast enough that it sisn't go bad in the can
- I'd never use it fast enough now to keep it fresh enough to be sure it would always do the job properly..
For tubes I generally had "monkey grips" in stock and the clamp required to use them. If they sit around too long they don't light and burn properly so they don't vulcanize properly. That's the only way to replace a bad valve stem too. (you don't throw away a tractor tire tube just because the valve stem lets go, and you can't use a bolt in stem without a vulcanized "hard spot".
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Danny D.
clare wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 23:05:11 -0500:
Yeah, I read my mail from top to bottom, threaded and subthreaded, so I sometimes respond to mail that came later but to an earlier subthread.
People accuse me of not reading all the posts, but, I do, but it just takes time to get to each one of them to respond.
In short, for those who didn't read the history, it goes something like this...
In the UK, BSA racers were known as beesers.
Then came along BMW, so, they called them beemers.
Then the cars started being sold in the USA, so they called 'em bimmers.
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Danny D.
clare wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 23:04:08 -0500:
Actually, "my" bimmer is more than a dozen years old, so, I found it funny that people consider bimmer owners haughty.
And, someone disparaged the beemer owners, but, as a group, they're usually engineers who ride in all kinds of weather wearing Aerostitch outfits where, when they go into a place to have lunch, they unzip completely out of their outfit and, leaving their helmet and gloves on the bike, actually, save for the boots, look pretty normal.
Watch how *different* a pack of Riceburners look, what with all that colorful leather; or, heaven forbid, a gang of Harley riders when they go into the bar, practically tattooed on the forehead with the moniker of a bike manufacturer.
Three different worlds on two wheels.
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