new yorker inner tie rod

"Jeff" wrote

Inner tie rod (one big long part) is worn out. Replace it. It will look amazingly like this:

To do it properly and safely, the steering gear should be out of the car, and a special lo-o-o-o-o-o-o-ong socket is used to tighten the hex portion onto the threaded end of the "rack" (the steel geared part that moves back and forth), while holding a flat part of the rack with another wrench (or "spanner" for you "@all.uk" types), and not putting any force on the outer housing. If you just screw it on and try tightening while it's in the car, there is a risk of the torque damaging the housing or the internal gear (pinion).

If I may poke my head in on this for a sec....

What's the chance that the inner tie rod ends wear out faster than the outers? I've got a car with a bit of play in the steering, but when I jack it up and wiggle the wheel I don't see it on the outside rod ends.

(Just hoping it's the inner tie rods and not in the rack itself)

thx

-phaeton

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~~WARNING~~

*Please read all instructions before attempting repair* (you don't wanna miss nut'n)

The chances are good.

Next time you jack it up...pinch the "bellows" boot that seals the rack and the inner tie rod.

While pinching the boot, trace the rod inward, untill you feel the "socket" portion of the inner tie rod. That will be the "ball and socket" portion.

(envision a marble, sitting on a thimble)

Now have someone "jolst" the tire side to side, using about 1/2 inch to 1 inch of movement.

If the tie rods bad, even slightly, you WILL feel movement between the ball and socket.

a suggestion.......... jack the car up under the lower controll arm. It eliminates stress, and makes it easier to identify the problem. And...you can check the lower balljoints at the same time.

anywhooooo

~:~ MarshMonser ~sips his crownroyal....wonders if you've priced a "long rack" assembly~ ~:~

:D

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~~W A R N I N G ~~ ~~W A R N I N G~~ ~~W A R N I N G~~

INCORRECT REPAIR PROCEEDURES POSTED ABOVE

~:~ MarshMonster ~takes a toke, sips his crownroyal....and falls out of his chair laughing~ ~:~

"Marsh Monster" wrote

Okay, how about:

"To eliminate the chance of accidentally damaging internal parts by applying excessive torque while loosening and/or or tightening the inner tie rod nut, and if you can't get a wrench securely on the "flats" of the steel rack to ensure there is no rotational force applied...." the steering gear should be out of the car.

Is that better?

Or do you just crank the nut down, and when the owner comes back in a week complaining that the rack is stiff, jumpy, binds, leaks, etc., you just tell him it was normal wear and it should be replaced and you just happen to have one in stock and you'll be happy to install it and that'll be another $500 please.

If you are talking about the 90's Escort you picked up recently, then you can bet the inner tie rods are loose. They wear out extremely fast on FWD Fords of that era. They are fairly easy to replace with a tie rod socket tool or an appropriately sized crows foot wrench. You will need to set toe or get it aligned afterward.

Toyota MDT in MO

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No.

The statement is not better.

and.....

I don't jest crank the nut down, thank you very much.

I use the correct tools fer duh application.

unlike......... well........

:)

MARSHMONSTER ~wonders if you wonder if you should wonder if i wonder if you know what i know~

(mmmm...goood crown royal~

:)

"Marsh Monster" wrote

And what about original poster Jeff, who likely doesn't own the "correct" tools, and just might crank the nut down until it "seems to be tight enough". If he damages something, will you pay for the new parts? Will you attend the funerals if that damage causes the steering to lock up, the car misses the turn, and plows through a group of Nuns leading a class of blind school children across the street to the petting zoo?

When explaining procedures to people who ask on the Internet rather than consulting a factory (or even Haynes) shop manual, I prefer to err on the side of caution, if only to make them extra careful.