I'm with Rodan. You'll have to trace that wire that goes to the #85 and find exactly where it goes and what it does. You'll also need to find what other wires/sensors the wire may be affected by. Saftey nuetral switch is the first thing to look at. Make sure it works and is properly adjusted since they can be moved around a little. Also, does your car have an OEM alarm or theft device?
Thank you, Rodan and ponchonutty, for your replies.
Rodan - yes, your diagram is correct. Pin 85 goes to the PCM. I'll trace to see if there's a short along the line from the relay to the PCM. I did ground this pin and the engine cranks, but the car did not start after about 3 seconds of cranking. Beside safety, I wonder if just ground this wire is good enough for starting the car. Last night, I tried to read error code again using a different scanner. There was no error code.
I just replaced the park and neutral switch, and the problem is still there. The car has alarm, but I am not sure if it has anything more than that about anti-theft. The radio does not need code, so no anti-theft there.
My problem right now is that Pin 85 goes to the PCM, and if there's no short between the PCM and the power distribution center (where the starter relays sits), then I don't know how to get further with this PCM. My plan is to read the diagram again from the service manual to see if there's anymore hint. I just hope that the PCM does not fail.
Last night I also wonder if Pin 86 is the one supposed to be grounded and Pin 85 is the the 12 V one. But according to Rodan, it does not seem to be the case. Also, I have to check the digram, because as I remember, Pin 86 is the one supposed be 12 V when turn on the key to start.
I'll keep my progress posted.
A very good news. I found an open and the car runs now.
It was more complicated than that. After I found and fixed the open a while back, the car still didn't run. Then I tested the PCM grounds and the starter control wire and all seems good. Yesterday, I tried to force the car to at least crank again by grounding the starter control pin. It surprised me that it didn't start. So, check again and this time, the starter line is cold. I know that something different is going on. But the ignition switch line is easier to track because it doesn't go throught the computer. I look through the fuse box, and it's open for the ignition. I am not sure when this fuse burnt but it must have happened after the last time I crank the engine and testing this circuit, and before I fixed the open line. I am sure that this wasn't the case in the beginning, because the pin 86 of the starter relay was 12.x volt. It really throws me off because I thought it was good, and after fixed the open line and the car still didn't work, I was looking for some other leads.
Anyway, this is a good news for me. I got the car running fine now. Thanks all for trying to help me out and share your story.
I have a completely unrelated question. You mentioned using silicone sealer on the transmission pan. Is that permitted? My Toyota book warns specifically against doing that, and I've read that bits of silicone rubber can break off and get into the valve body.
I would follow the manufacturer service manual. For the Chrysler above, the manual asks to use silicone (I carefully bought it from the dealer wich cost a little more, I am not sure it's any different from auto part store). I used gasket before, and it leaks after several months. Your case could be different. I also fear the rubber could cause damage other places, but because I had the leak problem, I had to follow the maker's advice. You should follow their advice if they warn so. For these things, I would use the dealer's stuffs because it does cost much, and save money and headach later.
What you wrote is very > vdu wrote:
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