Re: How to wire LED wiper lights?

I like your style, Steve :)

I've seen that stuff, it's called LED-Guard and the literature says that it's been extensively tested on incandecent bulbs and performs better than the factory recommended fog-light fluid.

Well considering that its illegal in most states to display any red forward, or blue in any direction from a non emergency vehicle, i think the best bet is to wire both leads to ground as suggested in another poster. One benifit of this would be that it would just look fuggin cool with the lights on or off, AND you don't have to worry about johnny law looking for a reason to pull you over.

Oh my God, he *IS* that stupid!

won't work unless you drain the fog lamp reservoir and refill it with

Dorkage is giving a clearly incorrect example.

Spoilers or wings have effects on cars, whether fwd or rwd, sometimes even beneficial ones. Audi had to add a spoiler to the FWD TT to reduce high speed instability cause by rear end lift.

You're wrong. It must be within 5 1/2 feet, and it is most often labelled "710".

Although you can't put fog fluid in the brake reservoir, it's perfectly acceptable to put brake fluid in the fog lamp one.

Before you do anything, call your local police station and simply ask. Don't call 911, look up their regular phone number in the phone book. In some states, such as Michigan, blue is illegal. In others, it is.

To wire it, you can buy these little solderless connectors called "taps" or "splices" that when you put a wire with power on one side, a wire going to your LEDs on the other and squeeze the tap shut, a small blade comes down that nicks both wires and thus provides a circuit. Alternatively slit open a power line, insert a lead going to the LEDs, solder it and then tape the assembly thoroughly closed.

Now, you have several ways to go. My recommendation is that you wire into one of the existing side marker lights so when you turn on your parking lights, the diodes go on, or you can put a switch in the middle somewhere. Do not go straight to the battery as the LEDs will always be one. Even with a switch, I recommend against going straight to the battery as it is far to easy to accidentally leave the switch on and leave the lights on. Wiring isn't hard, it just takes patience. You can get the wire at your local auto store along with some wire ties, the taps, and only spend around $10-12.

That's it. Nothing special.

Hope this helps.

--George

You people ain't right.

I doubt most honda civics driven in the city see speeds above 130mph especially the ones with the turtle wheels that can barely make a 3/4G stop from 45mph without losing control due to their incredibly messed up wheel alighment.

Spoilers on FWD cars NEVER see speeds high enough to have any aerodynamic effects. They exist to "look cool" and for no other reason.

Yeah. Effect #1: if they weren't factory wings, they make the car look STOOPID (and hell, some factory wings look stoopid too- especially on

I don't know what to say, other than a) NOTHING could make an Audi TT look stoopider than it alread does, and b) that kind of thing happens when you design a car solely to acheieve a "look" (however ugly it may be) without thinking of the enigneering consequences.

And those bolt-on dork towers I see on HonDUHS and Mitsubitchins can actually apply enough downforce to move a gnat without caving in the (unreinforced) trunk lid. NOT!

And if wings and other cr*p like that are so "necessary" then why do REAL supercars either have NONE (Corvette, Viper) or very small ones compared to the crap the ricers hang on their cars (Lamborghini Miura, Countach, and Diablo)?

The only wings that ever served a purpose on street cars were the ones on Superbirds and Daytonas, and that "purpose" was simply to qualify the car to be used (with those wings) for racing at ~200 mph.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:32:40 -0500, Steve wrote:

|Mark Allread wrote: | |> On 17 Jul 2003 21:49:11 GMT, TCS |> wrote: |> |>> It's dorkage. Like putting a spoiler on a FWD car, |> |> |> Dorkage is giving a clearly incorrect example. |> |> Spoilers or wings have effects on cars, whether fwd or rwd, | |Yeah. Effect #1: if they weren't factory wings, they make the car look |STOOPID (and hell, some factory wings look stoopid too- especially on |4-door econoboxes). | |> sometimes even beneficial ones. Audi had to add a spoiler |> to the FWD TT to reduce high speed instability cause by rear end lift. |> | |I don't know what to say, other than a) NOTHING could make an Audi TT |look stoopider than it alread does, and b) that kind of thing happens |when you design a car solely to acheieve a "look" (however ugly it may |be) without thinking of the enigneering consequences. | |And those bolt-on dork towers I see on HonDUHS and Mitsubitchins can |actually apply enough downforce to move a gnat without caving in the |(unreinforced) trunk lid. NOT! | |And if wings and other cr*p like that are so "necessary" then why do |REAL supercars either have NONE (Corvette, Viper) or very small ones |compared to the crap the ricers hang on their cars (Lamborghini Miura, |Countach, and Diablo)? | |The only wings that ever served a purpose on street cars were the ones |on Superbirds and Daytonas, and that "purpose" was simply to qualify the |car to be used (with those wings) for racing at ~200 mph.

Can we try to stay on-topic here, please??

This poor fellow is trying to resolve his foglight fluid deficiency and you're off on a rant about spoilers!

|Before you do anything, call your local police station and simply ask. |Don't call 911, look up their regular phone number in the phone book. |In some states, such as Michigan, blue is illegal. In others, it is. | |To wire it, you can buy these little solderless connectors called |"taps" or "splices" that when you put a wire with power on one side, a |wire going to your LEDs on the other and squeeze the tap shut, a small |blade comes down that nicks both wires and thus provides a circuit. |Alternatively slit open a power line, insert a lead going to the LEDs, |solder it and then tape the assembly thoroughly closed. | |Now, you have several ways to go. My recommendation is that you wire |into one of the existing side marker lights so when you turn on your |parking lights, the diodes go on, or you can put a switch in the |middle somewhere. Do not go straight to the battery as the LEDs will |always be one. Even with a switch, I recommend against going straight |to the battery as it is far to easy to accidentally leave the switch |on and leave the lights on. Wiring isn't hard, it just takes |patience. You can get the wire at your local auto store along with |some wire ties, the taps, and only spend around $10-12.

The taps a called Scotch-Loks and you install themm with ordinary pliers. I would try to find the variant that uses a bullet connector for the added wire since it makes it much easier to disconnect them when the law starts leaning on you. Those will require a crimper, the standard ones don't.

And I'd tap into the foglights rather than the running lights or head lights.

Be sure to attend to that fluid, also.

But only if you're running 1157-type brake lamp bulbs in the fog light housing.

Hugh G. Rechshyn Eudapimp, ID

Yes, let's get back to the insidious fluoridation conspiracy.

Noonooonoooonooooooooooo! Don't put flouride in the foglight fluid! It will change the current darksucker behavior of the foglights and LED's, making them black noise generators.

Its "730" on Porsches. Being more expensive cars, they figure you can afford the extra 20.

Neill Massello wrote: TCS

Today I saw a fool with a spoiler on top of the cab of his truck.

Sigh. Dennis

That's true - if you mix the two you run the risk of having your fog lights actually create fog. Now if only I could do the same with head lights.

MmmMmmm, head. Dennis

Was it by any chance a semi?