Replacement engine air intake 3 inch rubber duct hose

If it were me I would get an automotive rated hose. Think about the heat, vibration, chemicals, etc.

Shucks, I'd just duct-tape it. Then again, I live in wonderful Ohio. No car inspection, and also, a non-emissions county. Life is great, and full of $500 PA-state cars that won't pass their inspections.

Well, this one has a built-in right turn but the other two may not be able to make the turn to the right without first going to the left a little bit. Do you have room?

The factory part also shows a place for another hose or something at the bottom left. Do you need that?

I don't know what the purpose of the two metal rings is. The factory part hasn't got them and my hose didn't have or need them. The video is no help (although at least it's about the part for sale. Some videos are just about nothing.) This one is too long, 36", and you'd have to cut it and then you'd have to clamp on the accordion part of the hose. You coudl not get a leak-free connection. NO GOOD>

This one is 13.39 inches. You don't say how long the space is in your car and the factory part doesn't feel the need to say how long it is. So you might not have to cut it but otoh, this has no flat section at the end, even new, so you lose nothing by cutting it. Apparently they think you can make a air-tight seal, but I don't see how. It gets 6

5-star ratings.

I had 2 engine codes, both for lean mixture, which usually means too much air getting in the mixture which usually means an air leak. I did all the things one is supposed to do, ending with making a propane wand and running the want wherever there might be a leak. No luck. Maybe I didnt' try hard enough to get the want underneath this hose, the one from the air cleaner to the throttle body, but finally I leaned over the engine, put some weight on the hose, and it came right off. it wasn't on well and that was the leak. But it had been on wrong for years and it was impossible to connect both ends. Factory versions of this hose are pretty stiff, even when new. It had two small bends and one didn't bend the right amount.

I had to buy a new one, though two years ago it was iirc only about $50. From either Advance Auto or the other one that starts with A. I tried to find out what they charge but you don't give the year or model of your car. Why are people so reluctant to give details.

That the check engine light was on was probably the reason the car was so cheap. I figured I could fix it but it took longer than expected, 3 years. Still the gas mileage was good the whole time. I think it stumbled a little when accelerating from a stop, but I learned to avoid that by using the pedal just right. After the leak was gone, it didn't do that anymore.

Both of your off brand are listed for autos, and I dont think it gets vey hot in my 3L engine compartment, and I dont' think any chemicals get on the hose, and inside it's just fresh air, and I wouldn't worry about vibration, but I would worry about getting a leak-free connection. Still 5 people rated the last hose 5 stars and 55 people even rated the one I blew off as 3.9 stars. And you could buy one of the cheap ones, especially the one without metal ends, and return it if it wont' fit. Just don't cut it or make it dirty.

So, it's on the intake -after- the air mass sensor? And you didn't notice the running problems? I would think the smog test would be the least of your worries.

Maybe. You might be able to patch it with 3M weatherstripping adhesive too for test purposes. Doesn't need to take much pressure but it needs to be well-sealed and reliable.

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks.

--scott

Scott is right that you might be able to patch it. Rough it up with sandpaper where the crack is and then use GE black silicone sealant. Wet your finger and you can mold and smooth it after it's on. And we have 10 fingers so you don't have to lick a dirty finger. You can even put on 2 coats.

Did your check engine light ever go on? I'm old enough and drive little enough that I never have to have an emissions test anymore, but I had a CE light and I want my car to work right anyhow. Mine had been part-way off for so long, I couldn't ge t it on at both ends even when I worked at it. But a crack I might have tried to patch.

If you do get a code, after you try patchine it, you can get a device that will erase your active and pending codes and then see if it shows up again, so you don' have to keep going to the smog people until you know it's fixed.

I only had a little bit of stumbling from a dead stop when my hose was on wrong.

Gas mileage was good too.

Doesn't take any pressure. Just a little vacuum.

Why should there be more leaks than this hose? If there had been, I think a check engine code would have been set and the light would have gone on.

Because when people defer maintenance, the stuff you see is always the tip of the iceberg.

--scott

Thanks for taking a look at the hose and for answering how to find something that isn't a hundred dollars for a short piece of open rubber.

I'm sure the smog inspector himself broke it as he said he only saw it _after_ he pushed hard on it. It's there now. But it wasn't there before.

Of course, if you can break rubber, then it's the original 2004 hose. But still, there are no running problems and there never were.

The smog for a 2004 is only via the OBD and the OBD results passed.

How long do hoses typically last? What is your recommended time frame for replacing all the engine hoses?

If it's something people do, there will be lots of full kits for it. Do full rubber hose kits exist for the 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2L gas?

Here's the problem. There is no problem.

The mechanic _created_ the problem.

It's not his fault though (as I mentioned above). If he was able to induce the crack, then the hose is old.

But...

I can't just patch it since he's expecting a new hose. You're not allowed to use non-stock parts in the emissions system. And he already told me if he sees the tape, he'll fail it again.

Of course I can seal it from the inside and go somewhere else to smog. But I don't know what he has already reported to the state.

If he reported the hose broken the new smog guy will look for it too. Won't he?

Plus, smog is about $75 which is the price I just paid for the Kia hose.

Remember there was no problem until I went to the smog inspection. He _caused_ the problem (although the fact he could cause it is a problem).

Anyway, it seems Kia and Mitsubishi are the same company according to the auto parts store so they use the same hose (also in the Hyundai he said).

It's still super expensive (for a rubber hose) at $75 shipped & taxed. But it's on the way.

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose SKU: 2694211948

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose SKU: 2694211948 Engine Air Intake Hose (2813838200) by Kia OE. Make vehicle look and perform as good as new with Kia OE parts. Precision designed and tested to meet the highest quality standards, genuine OEM Kia... Fits Following Model(s):

2.4 LITER.

Just about all parts that are custom made for a csr are very expensive for what they are. I bet it is less than $ 15 for a key with a chip or one of the key fobs, but they often charge you well over $ 100 for one and to program it for your car.

Seems to me Chryrler used a Mitsuibishin engine in some of it's car,

84-95 and maybe still.

Yes.

But for keys and fobs, depending on the car I suppose, not so true. Somehwere, Amazon maybe, I bought fobs for iirc $15

two toyota fobxs for $30

Chrysler Sebring fob for $11

2 Toyotal key balnks for $15 You need a working fob, or maybe 2 of them I forget, to program a new fob yourself. Instructions are online for most cars.

For the key, how does this work. Myabe you should cut a copy on a non chip blank, then program the new key but just hold it near the keyhole when you use the non-chip key to start the car. This way, you know if you can program the key before you cut it. And a non-chip key has uses, opening doors etc. without permitting a your 12-year old or a stranger to start the car. To actually get it copied, I went to a real locksmith. A little more but less chance of ruining the blank, I figured. I didn't extract a promise that he would pay for a new blank if he ruined this one, I didnt' ask for anything special, but he made several and didn't ruin anytthing.

You're in California?

In Md and I think other reglar emissions regions, they don't even open the hood, just connect the code reader iirc. Before there was a code connection, put a sensor in the tailpipe. Maybe if I'd failed they'd have looked under the hood???

And still they looked under the hood!

I had some cars that at 12 years the hoses were brittle.

But my 2005 toyota, none of the hoses were brittle last year. And three of them went on the corresponding nipples fairly tightly, and didn't show vaccum leaking when I put propane next to them.

When they are stiff and bittle afaic.

Most of the hoses are just hoses. you used to be able to buy them buy the foot, whatever length you want. Maybe at a real auto parts store I still could but at Pep Boys, Advance, etc. I could only get bubble packed 10' lengths or something like that.

3 cars ago I had taken one car to Jiffy Lube, and I didnt ask them to do more than change the oil, but he gave me a form that claimed they had checked all sorts of things. I was watching and they did not check my PCV valve, plus if they had, I think they would have broken the hose, because when I later checked, it was stiff and brittle. So I replaced all the hoses then.

I don't know but I doubt it.

The 2005 toyotal air intake hose (same hose as yours) whose replacement I described was still in excellent shape in 2020, but it had been sitting in a distorted situation for so long I couldn't get it to fit correctly at both ends at the same time. But the rubber wasn't bad. I still have it, outside. When I get groceries later today, I'll check if it's stiff or brittle.

I agree that you have to spend money once in a while.

I'm done for now.

It doesn't look to me like he deferred maaintenance, but even for those who do, the only maintenance related to vacuum leaks is the hoses, and unless they have deterioated, there is no point in replacing them.

For that matter, even if they are stiff AND brittle, if you dont' have to take them off, those within the engine won't leak. Maybe a hose from the engine to not-the-engine will be affected by vibration.

Not hard to understand the cost since they need to pay for the electronic gadgetry to do the programming and that cost often includes a subscription fee that could well be thousands of dollars annually. Then there's the subscription fees for the workshop manuals. These up front costs and annual fees need to be amortised over every job the tools are used for. That is only reasonable, that is only fair.

By which I meant the hoses, the vacuum hoses on top of the engine, where it used to be very hot but with modern engines it's only somewhat hot, but still hotter than most of the rest of the car.

I only needed two diameters iirc, at most 3. And even though I bought in 8 or 10' lengths, I didnt' have too much left over or waste.

Does anyone replace gaskets as part of maintenance, before they find a leak at one?

And that would not be apparent to the inspector.

(I my self have never gotten superglue to work at all. It doessn't even stick my fingers together. But I'm sure a lot of people find success with it.)

I've bogged one up with Sikaflex soft silicone. It was one a propane engine that went bang in the intake manifold, (which is also unmerciful to air filter and MAF sensor)