you'll need a corded drill motor and a steel brush, and even that won't
get all the rust out of the pits.
Rust-Oleum alone will probably not hold the rust at bay; if you find a
rust converter product that you like use that first. Otherwise I'd
suggest POR-15 or similar? (PITA to use but the rust won't come back)
if you have rust at the door bottoms you're probably going to have to
pull the door panels and clean/POR-15 the insides of the doors
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Remember that what you see is only a small portion of what is actually
there. Once you start a project like this, you may find that what looked
like surface rust is really perforated through the metal and then you
have to decide whether to take on a much larger project.
I've had excellent results using polyester resin and fiberglass to fix
some significantly rusted spots when located where they can't be seen
in normal use. Floor pans, trunk pans. I wirebrush then spray with
rust converter, then do the resin repair. I'm not skilled enough for
the patch panel work and even if I was, the resin is far far faster.
When done right the bottom surface, like the underside of floor pans,
can look like it's still all metal once you spray paint/undercoat it I
put duct tape on the underside before applying the fiberglass/resin
combo to the top side. When it's all cured the duct tape comes off
and it's a nice looking outer surface. My memory is fuzzy but I think
the last time I did this some of the rust thru holes were as big as a
quarter inch and quite a few of them.
One very long lasting repair I made was in the rear shock tower of a
car. First the usual treatement of rust removal, sanding, and painting
with a rust preventing paint.
It was before I had a welder, wasn't even my car at the time. I made a
patch panel of galvanized sheet steel. Attached it with screws and pop
rivets. Then coated it with structural fiberglass in the wheel well.
Further topped it with undercoating.
The rust was stopped dead. The repair went until the car's end of life a
good decade plus later. That is of course if someone down the ownership
tree didn't put it back on the road.
I normally just weld in a patch panel now. In some limited instances
I'll still use fiberglass. Using galvanized steel helps kill the rust
too. It does give some limited protection to the very immediate area.
you're playing whack-a-mole in that situation because those rust spots
are typically penetration from the inside, not something that working
outside can significantly help. unless you want to re-skin the doors
and remove the fenders to get at their internals, it's hard/impossible
to cure. so, if this really is a beater, and it were my beater, i'd
hose the heck out of everything i could to wash out residual salt, then
when dry, i'd simply spray atf inside the doors and up under the fenders
as best as i could, then leave it.
yes, you'll have an "environmental impact" with run-off, and you won't
want to leave the thing on your driveway for a few weeks, and you'll
have dirt accumulation on paint where it continues to seep. but it's
technically effective if you don't mind the cosmetics. [try not to get
it on rubber components.]
This is very odd sounding. What openings? Sealing off drains or openings
at the lowests points (outside of those that get a lot of spray
from the wheels) accelerates rust. When I am fighting off rust I have
on occasion added drain holes to the area as part of the treatment,
allowing the water that gets somewhere it shouldn't drain out. I do go
looking for the point of entry and seal it, but that search may or may
not be successful. A well placed drain hole along with treating /
repairing the rust does wonders for slowing/stopping it.
a lot of people??? use drain oil??? nate, you're a complete freakin'
retard. most people use nothing. the very few that use "something"
usually spend money of stuff like waxoyl or spray-on underseal.
of the vanishingly few that use any kind of oil at all, the ones that
have done it twice don't want to re-block their spray gear with sludge
and crap from used anything. and that of course speaks to your lack of
experience and the anosognosic brain damage that prevents you from ever
keeping your mouth shut about stuff you don't know.
from drained atf???
i look forward to the day when "nothing at all" is your only
"contribution" to cyberspace. you're a total waste of electrons.
Old farmer trick. another good one is washing equipment that doesn't
have a "fine finish" with Diesel fuel and letting it dry on.
You mean the cheap garden sprayer that's usually reserved for such duty?
IKYABWAI. You're so quick to accuse others of being ignorant when you
proudly proclaim your own with every post.
OIL. Oil. You know, goes in looking like thick lager, comes out
looking like thick Guinness. The stuff you (should) put in your engine.
It's a wonder you're still alive if you talk to people IRL using the
same persona you use on Usenet. I'm guessing that you're about 5 foot
4, and have severe inferiority issues.
To steal a great line from a classic movie (which is less funny if
you've ever served time in a cube farm) "you'd get your ass beat saying
something like that, man."
Are you ever helpful? Pleasant? Offer any contribution of substance?
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
open the bottles on a couple of different brands and sniff. the cheap
stuff doesn't have the same additive package and stinks less. the good
stuff should shrivel nose hair. since the additives are part of the
reason to use it, i'd spring the money and buy the one with more of them.
If you're just knocking the loose stuff off and spraying on some paint to make
presentable then get a cheap drill and a couple stiff wire brushes. One cup
shape and one
Use the cup shape in places like door seams and edges where the disc shape
doesn't work well.
That will knock the loose stuff off and remove most of the rust. Now treat the
spots with a rust converter or neutralizer. LOT's of them out there.
The ones that turn the rust "into a hard paintable surface" use tannic acid and
compound" They are water based and HAVE to have some rust to work. That is also
they fail most of the time. If you don't leave enough rust so the acid can
convert it and
the coating cannot adhere it fails BUT if you leave excessive rust the acid
all of it and rust comes back in a few weeks.
Neutralizers also use acid, 99% of the time it is nothing more than phosphoric
water. With that you apply some let it set for a minute or two and wipe it off.
I like to
use a scotch bright pad to work it into the surface and kill as much of the rust
possible. Then a coat of etch primer, epoxy and paint...
No, I would like to postpone a trip to my body shop mechanic to
fenders and doors when rust eats through them. I don't care much about
on that car since I keep dodging the annual technical inspections.
t the rusted
id and a "polymer
s also the reason
n convert it and
id cannot convert
horic acid and
t off. I like to
he rust as
the idea being that scotch_bright-like pad will leave enough rust
behind for converter to work
and wet or dry won't?
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