Scotch brite has a very well earned place doing bodywork. I agree that you want to keep it away from things like open engines and similar areas. However for rust work and scuffing bodywork during prep as well as removal of loose/flaking paint it is one of the best tools for the job.
Old farmer trick. another good one is washing equipment that doesn't have a "fine finish" with Diesel fuel and letting it dry on.
You mean the cheap garden sprayer that's usually reserved for such duty?
IKYABWAI. You're so quick to accuse others of being ignorant when you proudly proclaim your own with every post.
OIL. Oil. You know, goes in looking like thick lager, comes out looking like thick Guinness. The stuff you (should) put in your engine.
It's a wonder you're still alive if you talk to people IRL using the same persona you use on Usenet. I'm guessing that you're about 5 foot
4, and have severe inferiority issues.
To steal a great line from a classic movie (which is less funny if you've ever served time in a cube farm) "you'd get your ass beat saying something like that, man."
Are you ever helpful? Pleasant? Offer any contribution of substance?
it's one of the reasons i bleat about repair hygiene from time to time. and it's the kind of reason why most rebuilt engines don't last anywhere near as long as original build even though their tolerances and materials can [in some cases] be better.
Bearings come in a variety of sizes and Beam did not specify if said pattern was on a roller, ball, race, cone, shell, etc. Many bearing components even in common sizes have enough surface area to show a fingerprint pattern of contamination of one sort or another.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.