Two minor questions that came up today when I was showing an inquisitive
teen how to mount & balance his own tires for the car he recently got for
free from a neighbor.
1. The teen asked me why this slit in the typical air chuck...
The kid asked me what the practical difference was between choosingbetween two air valves, one for up to 65 psi and the other up to 80 psi fora typical 30 to 40psi nominal economy car tire such as his are:
both cases, I told the kid that I don't know the answers and that I'dask folks on this newsgroup who know more than I do about such things, soI'll point the kid to this thread, when/if reasonable answers ensue.
I did hazard a guess that I suspect the slit in the chuck is perhaps to
"let air out", although I'm not sure why we'd want to do that except, I
guess, if we use the chuck as the air-release mechanism (similar to the
"nib" on the back of a typical pencil-type air pressure gauge).
Likewise, I told him that it doesn't seem to matter all that much which
pressure valve we use for his passenger car tires, AFAIK, where I like the
brass valve, which happens to handle higher pressure, but I didn't see that
it mattered for a passenger car, particularly since they were both
essentially the same price.
One happens to be a "bolt in" type while the other is "snap in", but I
didn't see that as a practical difference - do you, and one was slightly
shorter but only because O'Reillys didn't have the same lengths in stock
for the two types.
The specs on the back of the O'Reillys packages are:
XtraSeal 15-4600 Tire Valves 1-1/4" HP 0.453" TR600HP
o Max cold inflation pressure is 80 psi
o Rim thickness not to exceed 0.205" (5.2mm)
XtraSeal 15-4142 Tire Valves 1-1/2" HP 0.453" TR414
o Max cold inflation pressure is 65 psi
o Rim thickness not to exceed 0.156" (3.96mm)
The slot is just like a slot in the head of a screw. It is used for
The valve stem is for different rims. Typically truck rims are thicker
and heavier and tires have higher pressure.
Interestingly, there was no steel spring inside when I unscrewed the face.
There was just the screw-off face, the round body, and a "pin" that had a
rubber grommet around it (which must act as the "spring").
> The valve stem is for different rims. Typically truck rims are thicker > and heavier and tires have higher pressure.
What the package said was completely clear to me, which was only that it
specified only a MAXIMUM thickness and pressure.
I was asking about the unspecified MIMIMUM thickness and pressure, which, I
suppose, can only be garnered from experience.
In _my_ experience, admittedly only about 30-odd tires, I've used both
types in passenger car tires with nary a leak - but Clare says the brass
valve stem "might" leak in a thin rim, even though a minimum spec wasn't
specified on the package.
I would have gotten what I normally get, which is 1-1/2 inch brass 0.453"
diameter bolt in 60psi valves - but the store didn't have any and this was
an emergency mount and balance.
To be clear, the ones I normally get have TWO diameters, because they come
with two rubber grommets, one for 0.625" holes and the other grommet for
0.453" holes as shown in this photo from a prior mounting & balance:
, for example, in this photo there are TWO grommets where only one isused, depending on how big the hole is:
are the valves I normally use - where in about 30-odd mounts,I haven't had a valve leak yet.
The question wasn't ever about the maximums, since _all_ the valves sold in
that store had maximums well above this particular vehicle's spec - so -
based on the spec - EVERY valve "fits".
The question was about the minimums, which are unstated on the package.
The HF compressor is still functioning although I removed the regulator
after it blew its guts out. The semi-engaged threads in the pot metal
body were not salvageable. The hose and connectors in the accessory pack
I did find there are at least two styles of 1/4" male connectors. Of
course, I bought the wrong style.
Thanks for that additional information, where I assume the "rubber grommet"
is the "spring" in this ancient Sears chuck from, oh, it has to be from the
1970's when I first did major body work and painted a car which is why I
bought that Sears 220VAC 20-gallan wheeled compressor in the first place.
The chuck doesn't work all that well lately, so I bought this new one to
replace it, where when we were replacing the chuck, the kid asked the
question, where I _encourage_ all intelligent people to not be afraid of
asking questions so that they learn (as do I), from the answers from more
Hence I appreciate your experience that you relayed about HF tools.
My experience with HF is similar, in that there are 3 categories (IMHO):
o Outright crap that isn't worth a penny (e.g., their 100' air hoses)
o Stuff that's crap - but it's worth it (e.g., their tire mounting tools)
o Stuff that's ok - so it's a good deal (e.g., tire irons & wheel weights)
Funny you mention the air compressor is still working, as mine is an
ancient circa 1970's 220VAC 20 gallon Sears air compressor, which is still
going strong (many hoses later).
My biggest problem is _finding_ air hoses that are good but not too
expensive. If anyone has a good source for them, let us all know.
I bought the HF yellow plastic coiled hose for short distances, which
sucked, as did the black rubber-coated reinforced vinyl 100' hose from HF.
That does drive me nuts that the quick connectors are of different styles,
where I only need one, and it's "whatever I've got", which is, I don't
remember, but which dates back to the 1970s when I first bought the air
once went over the various styles, many years ago, on a.h.r, but Iforget offhand what our conclusion was as to the "right" kind to get.
just want the kind of connector that fits "whatever I've already got"although I _am_ interested in why they have the different types, where allthese differences are great, but it still has to fit what I've already got.
Hi Bill Tannen,
My wife is much like you are, where all she wants to know about any home
DIY job or auto-repair DIY job ... is, just this:
o "Honey ... did you fix the damn thing yet?"
HINT: No sex until the rubber is match mounted & balanced properly! :)
Jokes aside, nothing about automotive or home DIY matters to her - except
"is it fixed yet?".
I've learned that if I even _tried_ to explain using even the slightest
amount of complexity about a home or auto DIY, her eyes go glassy and roll
in her head - and it's not that she can't handle details - since she has an
advanced degree in engineering - just like I do ... it's just that ... well
... um ... er ... ah ...
o *She just doesn't give a shit about home or automotive car repair* :)
You're apparently the same - which is fine - but many of us _love_ to
_learn_ about things that other people don't have a clue about.
For example, like almost everyone here, I too comprehend every spec molded
on a tire (since I care about tires) and on a brake pad, including the
tire's painted dots or the brake pad friction material and rating, where to
most people a tire or a brake pad is simply too complex mechanical voodoo.
IMHO, those people who consider tires and valves and friction materials too
complex for them to comprehend instantly become a marketing person's dream
since they only know the glossy material of what marketing people tell them
(which is almost complete bullshit). But that's all they know because they
don't care to know _anything_ about tires or friction materials.
And that's ok
o Ignorance is bliss to them.
Similarly it's the same with most people on tire chucks & tire valves.
o To most people, I suppose, tire chucks & valves ... "simply exist".
It's interesting that they likely don't even know what "Schrader" means for
example, as they're completely clueless about what we're talking about.
o And that's ok as ignorance clearly is bliss for most people.
They're often the same about many things, e.g., if I said there's no
appreciable "octane" in gasoline, they'd look at me with glassy eyes since
all their life, they _thought_ gasoline was "octane" (or at least had more
than a tiny percent of it) ... where if I ever once mentioned 2,2,4
tri-methyl pentane is what people refer to as "octane", they'd look at me
as if I was speaking Cyrillic to them - they're _that_ clueless about
basics of automotive terminology.
And that's ok.
o Ignorance is bliss to many people.
o I prefer to ask questions where I'm not afraid to admit I don't have all
the answers - and where I _love_ factual details about home & automotive
I learn from mounting tires; they don't learn anything when mounting tires.
o Their ignorance is their bliss - and that's ok.
I's their right to remain ignorant.
o However, I must state the super obvious that this is a home-repair and
auto-tech group which is "supposed" to "give a shit" about home-DIYs and
auto DIYs, AFAIK.
You don't have to give a shit about everything asked here ...
o But if your remark was intended to be condescending - it wasn't taken
that way - it was taken as simply "you don't give a shit" about the proper
mounting and balancing of tires - which _MANY_ people don't give a shit
While _everyone_ on this ng has done the common "little" jobs like
batteries, alternator and starters, cooling systems, CCvs (aka PCR but
calling a CCV a PCR is understating the effort), exhaust systems, smog
repairs, brake jobs, fluid changes, ball joints, tie rods, struts and
shocks, window glass and regulators, DISA, FSU, CCV, VANOS, etc., for the
bimmer owners, oil pump gaskets, blower motors, etc....
Most people haven't done the "bigger" jobs at home yet ...
o Nor do they even want to do those "bigger" jobs at home, it seems.
And that's ok.
There's something strange that happens on this ng whenever we cover this
canonical half dozen typical automotive "bigger" jobs where only _some_
people (not all mind you - just some), make up all sorts of ridiculous
reasons why they _can't_ do the typical repair job (where they need to be
honest with themselves that they simply don't _like_ the job, in most
1. Mounting tires & balancing wheels
2. Clutch & transmission overhaul
3. Measure & align caster, camber, & toe
4. Major body work & painting at home
5. Full-tank refueling at home
6. Engine overhaul at home
o I've done only _half_ those canonical common repair jobs at home.
So I admit I still have a _lot_ to learn!
o So I will keep asking questions, since I have 3 more of those jobs to go!
I realize that there are criteria that result in different designs but
the engineer in me is offended when the main criteria seems to being
slightly different from the other company's design. I have a collection
of oil filter cap wrenches, all of which are almost, but not quite, the
same. Even if the filter itself is for the same applications the
different manufacturers have to march to their own drummer.
There are people who like to learn and there are people who don't.
o And that's OK.
For example, here's a picture of 3 of my chucks - do you have any advice
for how to repair the oldest one, the one at the left, which, I _thought_
was simply missing a rubber grommet - but which seems to be missing a
spring (although, I've never taken it apart)?
the brand new chuck, in the middle, has an actual spring.
Can you post a picture of the insides of your chucks, so we can compare?
I agree with you that simply having a different size for no good reason
than to make it incompatible with others, is a marketing sham.
We should strive to not fall prey to those shams, where, I admit, I must
have a dozen different oil filter wrenches myself, from the cap type to the
strap type for my non-BMW vehicles (the bimmer has a different kind of oil
I just snapped this picture of my disassembled chucks, where you'll note
two things of related import.
is that only the middle (brand new) chuck even _has_ a spring, whichmay be why I'm unhappy with the oldest chuck from the 1970s's when I boughtthe compressor to paint my old Japanese sports car.
I have no idea where the spring went, where it's impossible that anyone
else has ever had possession of the chuck - so - maybe - perhaps - decades
ago - I may have taken it apart and somehow - perhaps - lost the spring?
I can't see the spring leaving on its own.
I could have sworn that I would have had the right sized spring in my box
of things, but a look there found everything but the right sized springs.
Since I take apart EVERYTHING that breaks, I am surprised I didn't save
more of the springs - but alas - I'll have to buy some since I see now that
the real problem with the chuck was that I didn't know how to repair it.
(And I hate waste - where I feel too many people waste our earth's limited
resources by throwing them out instead of fixing them.)
Anyway, the second thing is that the fittings I have on hand are from a
batch I bought from HF on sale perhaps a year or two ago, where the red
label says that they're "Industrial 1/4 inch Brass NPT M" fittings by a
company named "Kobalt" with a SKU of "8 79686 00455 4"
A google search finds this:
guess that means my fitting "type" is "Industrial", whatever that tellsus.
Pretty much, that means I need to _only_ get "Industrial" fittings when I
need new ones, where the old ones don't ever wear out - but they seem to
hide with the socks.