Using an iPad to follow a YouTube DIY without Internet to replace automotive speakers

This is just one easy way to use Windows, Linux, and iOS together, to quickly and easily watch a YouTube DIY at a location that has no Internet.
1. On Windows, I downloaded the desired YouTube DIY: youtubedl
https://youtu.be/Ve-kcKxbXx4

https://youtu.be/Ve-kcKxbXx4

2. It's easy to transfer files into VLC over USB on dual-boot Linux:
http://i.cubeupload.com/360Laq.jpg
That's it. Now the video was on iOS playable where there is no Internet.
http://i.cubeupload.com/CuxNtP.jpg
A. I bought the tools at Harbor Freight & the speakers at Fryes:
http://i.cubeupload.com/GtSVFI.jpg
B. I followed the YouTube DIY in VLC, step by step:
http://i.cubeupload.com/IDheqM.jpg
C. I removed the decrepit Toyota OEM 20W $300 Panasonic speakers:
http://i.cubeupload.com/CweFrP.jpg
D. I had to drill holes to fit the 450W Blaupunkt 3-way speakers:
http://i.cubeupload.com/6ugHnx.jpg
E. Everything else but the holes fit perfectly back into place:
http://i.cubeupload.com/rczDpa.jpg
The only catch is that it's amazing that something as common as a 6x9" oval speaker requires holes to be drilled in the rear deck given that these things should simply be standard.
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On 4/15/18 8:38 PM, Ragnusen Ultred wrote:

Go peddle your shit somewhere else.
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
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Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 02:22:08 -0700 (PDT), schrieb snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com:

I've seen Jeff Liebermann's responses to questions of how manufacturers' lie about specs, where he has personally doublechecked things like claimed wattage on radios.
But what's amazing is that a pair of $300 Panasonic 20W paper-cone one-way speakers sells at Toyota, when these $30 Blaupunkt 450W (claimed) speakers are clearly better made.
The magnets alone weight a ton compared to the flyweight Panasonics - although I don't think there is a spec on magnet heft. (What does the magnet heft mean, in terms of specs, when the difference is striking between two speakers?)
Also the paper of the $300 Panasonic cone is brittle and subject to sun degradation, while the $30 Blaupunkt was presumably more sunlight resistant rubber & foam.
But to your point on wattage, the head unit remained which likely was not capable of outputting more than 20 watts RMS anyway - so there's no chance that the $30 Blaupunkt speakers will be carrying more than that.
One question I have is why don't they make speaker holes standard for standard-sized speakers? The other question is about that magnet.
If there were two same-sized speakers, one with a huge magnet and another with a puny magnet, what does that mean in terms of likely performance spec differences?
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Why not use a Windows based tablet instead of fucking about converting it to Apple's fucked up language?
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Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 15:05:15 +0100, schrieb James Wilkinson Sword:

If you can improve on this question, let us know: *Q: How would you download this video to watch offline on an iOS device?*
https://youtu.be/Ve-kcKxbXx4

https://youtu.be/Ve-kcKxbXx4

You bring up a good point, which is that the iOS tablet is the hardest type of tablet to get to work in the real world with other operating systems.
I have an android tablet, where it's so easy to download any movie *directly* to the tablet, that it's not funny. Almost nobody knows this trick, but all you need to do, on Android tablets, is install the F-Droid (don't use the Google Play app which is a knock off with ads!) free ad-free YouTube Red clone named "New Pipe". That app is so wonderful that you'll never use YouTube ever again, since it's YouTube on steroids, without any ads ever, and where it can download any video or audio.
So I didn't mention Android because it's just too easy.
I don't have a Windows tablet, so I was showing folks how to do it on iOS since iOS is always a thousand times harder than Android is due to its walled garden nature (as everyone is already aware).
BTW, Linux and Windows plays so nicely together that it was also a no brainer.
Linux, for example, reads beautifully the entire Windows file system (well, except for the tricky stuff Windows just added in the February Win10 where they secretly modified the NTFS, e.g., the wuaueng.dll file as one example).
Given that Windows does Youtube downloads beautifully, and that Linux sees the entire Windows disk, and that Linux plays far nicer with an iOS device than does Windows sans the iTunes abomination, that's why I used the system that I used. (Because it's the best of all worlds.)
http://i.cubeupload.com/6MxqLo.jpg
So, while on Android I would have just searched, viewed, played, stripped audio, and downloaded video using the same NewPipe app, the iOS device necessitated a multi-step but still trivially simple process of...
1. On Windows, I downloaded the video using the extremely powerful and super flexible command-line youtubedl.exe app.
2. Booting to Linux, I already had the results (since Linux sees Windows perfectly), and then connected the iPad, and since Linux sees iPads better than does Windows, I slid the file over into the VLC space on the iPad to play it there.
If you know of a *better* way to do those two tasks, assuming the constraint of only open-source freeware, then let us all know as we'd all benefit from the technical expertise.
If you can improve on this question, let us know: *Q: How would you download this video to watch offline on an iOS device?*
https://youtu.be/Ve-kcKxbXx4

https://youtu.be/Ve-kcKxbXx4

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Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 09:50:59 -0700 (PDT), schrieb trader_4:

You bring up a good point, trader_4, which is that what's trivial on Android is actually impossible (or at least a lot harder) on iOS, but I play with all operating systems - so I deal with them as they come to me.
So yes, Android does everything iOS does, and then tons and tons and tons more, while iOS doesn't do even what Android does, and iOS does nothing that Android doesn't already do.
Hence, I agree that iOS users put up with this Apple crap ... but it is what it is - and all we can do is deal with it if that's what we have in our hands.
To always try to add value, on Android, here's what I suggest: https://f-droid.org/en/packages/org.schabi.newpipe/
Be warned that the Google Play knockoffs on New Pipe seem to have taken the source code and added their advertising crap to that source code and then remarketed it on Google Play - so I only recommend the F-Droid version but if you don't want to use F-Droid, the Google Play knockoffs do work and even they are better than Youtube is.
If we use Android - that's the only app that is needed to download any video and then play it offline at your leisure (we were working on the car at the neighbor's house who didn't have a router so we couldn't connect to their Internet).
To continue to add value, one advantage of Linux over Windows is that Linux actually works BETTER than Windows with an iOS device. You just connect the iOS device by USB and slide the files over into the "private space" of the VLC app and you're done.
On Windows it's slightly more complex because iTunes or the Apple Device Drivers are needed (IMHO), and that's just not acceptable. At least when I plug the iOS device into the latest Win10, but without iTunes or Apple crapware, what shows up is not nearly as much as what shows up on Linux, and on Linux, it's two way whereas on Windows it's only one way.
Another question I might ask here is why did I have to MODIFY the speaker drill holes. I realize the simple answer is "you just have to". But Jesus. It's just a 6x9 oval speaker for heaven's sake. There's nothing in a speaker which necessitates "special" drill holes.
Why don't they just make speaker holes standard like a billion other things are standard (e.g., USB or pipe fittings or quick couplers, etc.)?
Also, I didn't realize speakers have a +/- wire. What happens if you reverse that?
Note though that it's hard to reverse them since both the connection on the speaker and the harness connector on the car had one wire with a red stripe and the speaker itself had a plus and minus sign and the terminals on the speaker were different sizes and the harness connector on the car only clipped in one direction.
So they did a *lot* of things to ensure that you don't get the wires crossed.
But what happens if you do cross the wires? (Just curious.)
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Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 13:20:55 -0700 (PDT), schrieb snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com:

Makes sense. Do you think that could damage the speakers?
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No, it doesn't. It might make the music sound odd if you're very very very very good at hearing, or you have OCD, otherwise it may just reduce the volume slightly. Unless you have the speakers positioned perfectly and are sitting in a precise position, then the delay of the speed of sound will cause more problems anyway.
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On 17/04/18 06:34, Ragnusen Ultred wrote:

If two stereo speakers are out of phase, they tend to cancel out low frequencies. You get no bass. The cutoff frequency depends on how far apart the speakers are. If they're less than half a wavelength you get significant cancellation.
Try this: wire two speakers this way, set your amp to mono, and place the speakers directly face-to-face. Most of the sound gets cancelled.
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Am I being stupid or shouldn't ALL the sound get cancelled at ANY frequency if you're sat midway between them? Imagine you're sat in your living room and have one speaker 3 metres in front of you and 1 metre to the left, and the other 3 metres in front of you and 1 metre to the right. All sounds come out of the two speakers 180 degrees out of phase. Since the distance from the left speaker and the right speaker to your head is identical, the sounds will still be 180 degrees out of phase when they reach you.
Since this doesn't happen I can only assume that either: 1) you hear the two out of phase sounds with different ears and your brain allows for this. 2) reflections off the walls mean you can always hear the sound anyway.
I've often connected speakers both ways round and never been able to tell one was quieter than the other.
If you were in one of those weird silent rooms (anechoic?) then you might not hear anything if you wired them up wrong. I saw a TV program once where you couldn't hear someone speaking if they faced the other way, as the sound from their mouth didn't bounce off anything. I guess the same would happen if you were floating in mid air, like er.... space, but with air.
Anyway, it doesn't matter, you get precisely the same sound whichever way you wire them up, I guess something just bounces.
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On 17/04/18 10:26, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:

Most of the sound you hear in any room is actually reflections. Like 70%. So in your setup, you might get cancellation of the direct sound, but that's only part of what you hear - and the rest takes various paths that don't cancel.
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But shouldn't it be enough to notice? I've tried swapping the connections to a speaker before and there is precisely zero noticeable difference.
--
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Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 07:31:55 -0700 (PDT), schrieb trader_4:

Well, that works but remember, it's not my car, so I'm completely unfamiliar with everything about the car.
Also remember that I have a lady watching over my shoulder who was the mom of the girl who was her daughter, helping me, who owned the car ... where you know, as I know, that breaking things like those dastardly clips gets those kinds of people upset.
Us? We break those clips all the time ... and we remove more parts than necessary all the time, and we remove fewer than needed all the time, and we take off parts out of order all the time, etc., where I didn't have the luxury of experimenting while working on this neighbor's car.
Besides, I could have written it all down, but really, it's just speakers (as you said) and there were only about fifty or so connectors to unclip or unscrew, so, that's not all that much to remember (or write down), but why bother.
I put the kid to good use by having her hold the iPad tablet, and she would read out the next step and I would do it while she paused it.
That worked out perfectly - but they don't have a router (reminder for me to buy them a new router as they only use desktops or cellular).
In my case, this use model was perfect:\ a. Mom watched over everything like a hawk (but she did bring refreshments!) b. Daughter held iPad and told me what step to do next (this kept her busy). c. I removed the fifty or so bolts and clips & installed the speakers.
When it came time to drill into the rear panel, I sent the mom and daughter inside asking for them to make more food!
(They would have screamed had they seen me drilling the holes.)
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Am Tue, 17 Apr 2018 13:14:57 +0100, schrieb James Wilkinson Sword:

You have an intuitive mind.
Every car is different. I've replaced spark plugs in an Infiniti where the engine has to come out. For you to say, "funny, whenever I've replaced spark plugs (and I've replaced a lot in my cars), I've never had to lift the engine", is just telling us you haven't done enough engines yet! :)
Likewise, I've replaced what amounts to the PCV valve in a BMW (they call it a CCV) where the amount of stuff that has to be removed is nothing like that of a typical American car so for you to say something like "funny, whenever I've replaced PCV (and I've replaced a lot in my cars), I've never had to lift the intake manifold", is just telling us you haven't done enough engines yet! :)

You just don't have the expertise yet - but you will soon.
The iPad doesn't have cellular. It's WiFi only. And if it had cellular, it wouldn't work, since the neighbor's SIM card wouldn't even fit, let alone work. And they are on Verizon anyway, but it still wouldn't work as they had puny cellphones.
You don't have the expertise yet to understand the problem set sufficiently, (likely because you have no experience with iOS perhaps?) which is fine but which seems to be the case.
Remember, it took only a minute or three to set this up, whereas what you're suggesting is either impossible (putting the tablet on their wifi network) or impractical by way of comparison (using a puny cell phone when a tablet is better).
What would be preferable, instead of suggesting impossible or impractical solutions, would be to suggest a one-step (instead of two-step) solution to get the video onto the WiFi-only iPad.
Now *that* would be a useful suggestion (because it would take intelligence and expertise to solve that problem, which is something that is not intuitive).
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I see it as common sense.

If I can't access A without removing B in the engine bay, I take it to the garage. I don't even change my own oil. I do however buy my own parts on Ebay. This really pisses off the garage who likes to make money on markup. I get them to do a service/MOT check and give me a list of what's wrong with it, then I turn up a few days later with all the parts and insist they only charge for the labour on the bill. If they refuse, bringing up the subject of ripoff and markup frightens off other customers and they get on with it.

Car designers never seem to think of servicing ease.

Then the ipad is a piece of shit. Use whatever phone of yours or theirs has cellular access.

I avoid IOS because I know it's rubbish.

Stop using an Ipad. Surely there are normal tablets (as in non-Apple) that can access the cell network?

--
On the topic of mobile phones:
Anything bigger than 4 inches is getting into the region where most people would have difficulty holding and using the device comfortably -- Callum Kerr, 2013.
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On 18/04/2018 12:22 AM, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:

Common Sense, a very rare substance.
--

Xeno

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On 2018-04-17 07:11, Ragnusen Ultred wrote:

What a load of shit you tossers spout.
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What do you expect from someone called "Ragnusen"?
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Am Mon, 16 Apr 2018 09:25:29 -0700 (PDT), schrieb trader_4:

It's clear that you, trader_4, understand that of the fifty or so bolts and clips that had to come out, not a single one was visible, where it's not always obvious how many there are or in which order to remove the dozen or so pieces of trim and lights and grills and decks and molding and belts and cushions, etc., that had to be removed in order to just *expose* the speaker bolts in this kid's vehicle.
Obviously, once the speakers were exposed, the wiring was trivial, which, even James Wilkinson Sword must note, I didn't say I had any problem with the physical part of wiring the speakers.
BTW, to add value here, the *great* thing about the physical wiring was that the positive and negative was so obvious in so many ways that you couldn't possibly make a mistake. a. The harness wires were color coded with a red stripe b. The speaker wires were also color coded with a red stripe c. The speakers themselves had different sized connectors d. The harness connection itself only clipped in one way e. The speakers had a plus and minus symbol
So, the wiring was really easy. I used wire nuts to connect to the harness connector so that the speakers could be swapped out more easily in the future.
Routing the wires was also easy as there were pre-fashioned clips and curved troughs in the back deck, which routed the wires behind the seats to the hidden harness connectors (none of which was covered in the video but they were all easy to find since you just follow the wires).
The speaker cutout even had a "well indentation" to get the wires from underneath (in the trunk) to topside (to connect to the hidden harness clip behind the back of the seats).
So, as trader_4 astutely noted, the wiring wasn't ever the problem. The advantage of the video was simply to know where the fifty odd hidden connections were in the dozen odd upholstery and trim panels that had to be removed.
Plus, it kept the kid busy whose car it was.
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Or you just try one then the other and see which is loudest.
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