OK.... it's an intermittent fault so the mechanic will NEVER find it. I of course suspect the main relay (replaced once, like 10 years ago). So... thought I'd wire in a switch across the terminals which I could use to bypass it when it is being uncooperative, and either prove or disprove the relay theory. And make the car run, if I am right. But I can't find my Volvo wiring manual. So... which terminals would be appropriate to bypass/jump? Thanks.
One of ours used to have water running down the antenna wire and drip right into that relay which was upside down. One reason I got it so cheap was it wouldn't run in the rain and no mechanic could figure it out.
I also have had issues on several of them with the fuel pump fuse. The heat takes the temper out of the fuse holder so it doesn't hold the fuse tight. The test for that is to see if the fuse is physically hot. If so, a good clean and bend of the contact is in order.
That said why not just replace the relay, they are something like ten bucks. You also can pop off the cover to see if the contact points inside are arced out.
A normal Bosch relay's pin out is pin 30 and 87 for the main power with pin 85 and 86 as the trigger. My old 240's used this number system and bosch relays.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'ssnipped-for-privacy@snail-mail.net wrote:
Not enough info, not even close.
Volvo sold 240s from 1975 through 1993. During that time, they used several different variants of Bosch K-Jetronic and several different variants of Bosch LH-Jetronic. First, you need to tell us what year, engine, transmission, emissions package and induction system (turbo/nonturbo) you have. Second, you need to find your Volvo wiring manual. Trying to diagnose an intermittent electrical problem on a 240 Volvo is hard enough WITH a manual...trying to do it without is a waste of time.
Yeah, that's why I'm throwing myself on the mercy of the newsgroup.... it's an 89 manual trans nonturbo 49 state with the white FI relay.
That don't matter for beans. A relay is a relay. All the Volvos I had used Bosch style ones for things like the FI 'or' they had a printed circuit diagram on the top of the can to tell you which post did what.
They have 2 wires that are the trigger power which energizes a coil and two posts for the main power that connect when the coil is activated.
If the numbers on the back are different than 30 and 87 and 85 and 86, than just pop the cover to see which ones go to the set of points and short those with your switch.
Rocket science it ain't.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Fix one: Jump fuse 4 to fuse 6 Fix two: Jump relay 30 terminal to both 87 terminals Fix three: Remove relay cover and resolder broken solder joint therein
Also, inspect the main fuse holder, located on the relay bar on the left inner fender. Relay failures are common but so is corrosion/heat damage to this fuseholder. If in doubt, replace.
Well, I checked this fuse and it's OK, and I opened the plastic case and the little board looks OK but I'll resolder anyway, hook up two leads for jumping at the same time.
Why don't they use solid state relays?
Daniel, I thought you of all people understood how a relay works.
You even have a write up on your website.....
I cannot see any situation where you would jump 'both' 87 pins to power. This make absolutely no sense at all.
Pin 87 is a normally open pin until power is applied to the relay trigger. Pin 87A is a normally closed pin with power all the time 'until' you activate the relay.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
No, check the fuse HOLDER for that fuse, not just the fuse itself. There is often corrosion deep within the fuse HOLDER.
$$$$$$. But there's nothing stopping *you* substituting a solid-state relay or putting in a more robust conventional relay.
replying to gzuckier, abba15 wrote: Where in the fork of abba is the "main" relay on a 1988 240DL located? was running fine just quit over night. fuse block checks out ok has spark and will start on starting fluid but injectors are not firing. next is
replying to gzuckier, abba15 wrote: Where in the fork of abba is the "main" relay on a 1988 240DL located? was running fine just quit over night. fuse block checks out ok has spark and will start on starting fluid but injectors are not firing. next is
Injectors not firing (noid light stays dark) or injectors have no fuel (because the pump is bad or the fuel pump relay is not closing)?
This is an L-Jetronic system right? Two pickups on the engine, one on the oxygen sensor, rectangular silver box with a big multipin connector on the side?
--scott
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