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Volvo Stalling

Hi All,

Got a 1994 Volvo 940 Turbo Estate. More and more regularly now it's cutting out. Tacho drops to zero (even if the wheels are still turning the engine) and Lambda light comes on. Leave it a minute or so and it will restart and drive normally - until it happens again.

Seems mostly to happen after a hot restart - not so often when cold.

Now the fault code that is set (although it doesn't set a code every time) is 1-4-4 - no fuel load signal.

My first thought was the ever troublesome fuel pump relay - but with the tacho dropping too it could be the ignition amplifier on the front inner wing... Or am I wrong?

Checked all the connections to the AMM and to the ignition module on the wing and to the sensor just downstream of the AMM - all look good - clean and tidy with a smear of grease on them.

Any thoughts would be jolly helpful!

Reply to
Simes
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Hot start / re start issues are usually the crank angle sensor, or as you say the ignition amp.

Arm yourself with some freeze spray, or brake cleaner aerosol, and the next time it cuts out, immediately spray one item to cool it off and attempt a re start. If you can make it re start at will then you have identified the problem.

My money would be on the CAS though.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

It would be nice if it was the CAS - didn't really think of that as I sort of expected it to either work or not! That's only 20 quid from Eurocarparts so might be worth a dabble.

Reply to
Simes

Well...

Replaced the CAS and the ignition amp. Started fine and then cut out at the end of the road - exactly the same - tacho drops to zero instantly and the engine is dead - a couple of minutes it started fine and away as smooth as ever...

Any more thoughts? It's getting personal now :-)

Reply to
Simes

Yes, two thoughts:

a) The main relay is faulty, or battery feed to it or after it is intermittent- most likely the relay though- the ECU is thus dead. Often a dry joint opens up as it warms up. These are well documented with Volvo fuel pump relays!

b) You still have a fault on the primary trigger to the ecu- i.e. the CAS or its wiring. Could be the connector being subject to engine movement??

To rule out a) connect up a test lamp between relay output to ecu and earth, which should be lit at all times the ignition is in pos II. Next time it dies, you can verify the ecu is still powered.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (remove obvious)

It was that very thing - bloody relay. Took it off and soldered all the joints and it's good as gold (touch wood).

Cheers Tim.

Reply to
Simes

Marvellous, glad you got it sorted. You can look forward to another 100k or so of reliable running now ;)

Tim.

Reply to
Tim..

Hoping so!

Cheers for the assistance.

Reply to
Simes

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