In the emissions world, a longer zap is what you need. A short zap can lead to a misfire so that's a no no. In order to get a longer term spark, there arose a need to go to high energy ignition systems.
In the emissions world, a longer zap is what you need. A short zap can lead to a misfire so that's a no no. In order to get a longer term spark, there arose a need to go to high energy ignition systems.
I have Toyotas precisely because they have a chain.
Bzzztt. GDI has brought the scourge of carbon buildup back.
It's also that but in order to understand the improvements you would need to delve into the books on automotive engine design such as this one I have in my library here;
The city would have *specified* the bin requirements in the tender specs.
That's because the *internal* piping has rotted away placing *all* loading on the flange.
Hmmm, Last car I had for 8 years, never touched the exhaust system.
High energy ignition systems, platinum electrodes.
I first worked overseas when I was 26 years old.
That makes sense that the voltage zap is higher voltage nowadays, so, I guess the metal erosion was offset with the platinum cap.
Since spark plugs are cheap and yet, platinum is super expensive, that platinum cap must be pretty thin, don't you think?
I just opened my tuneup kit, where those gap gauges are still there!
I think our kids and grandkids are more worldly at five years old than we were at 20 in the days of yore!
I have to agree with you that if I knew a vehicle had a belt, and especially if it was an interference engine, for me, that car would be nearly worthless.
Just like FWD cars and tricked-out cars are, to me, nearly worthless.
Thanks for reminding me of the days of yore.
Here's my ancient timing light to check all of that:
And my very first dwell checker which I don't even remember how to use:
Because this dwellmeter was so much easier to read the value off of:
Yup. They fouled. And then they fouled again. And again. You got very good at filing them down to sharp edges.
I'm not so naive to not know that there is a lot of engineering, even in the rib and resistor design, but their actual use, when we put the correct one in our vehicles, is pretty simple I think.
Spark. Spark. Spark. Spark. Spark .... (rinse, repeat).
It's interesting we all universally feel engines last longer, but I wonder if it's not that the *car* lasts longer.
For example, tires last longer. Ball joints and u-joints and wheel bearings last longer. The body last longer. The exhaust lasts longer.
What doesn't last longer on a car nowadays?
Those are interesting advantages of EFI which are: a. Less gasoline dilution of cylinder walls b. Less contamination of the oil
So, fundamentally, people seem to be saying that carburetors contaminated everything more than does EFI, which reduced the life of the engine.
Googling for what you mean by "GDI"...
Pros and cons of gasoline direct injection...
What's so great about gasoline direct injection anyway?
Now that's an interesting concept!
If my bimmer requires higher-octane fuel, and if I add lower-octane fuel instead, and if I can induce pinging, then the moment that the engine pings, it vibrates "just enough" to shake loose carbon deposits (until the engine timing is retarded to eliminate the pinging).
I have never heard of that, but, it kind of sort of makes sense. Is that what you're implying can happen?
Thank you for correcting my assumption.
So it's a higher voltage zap for a longer period of time.
What's the old voltage? Something like 10K to 15K volts, right? What is the new voltage zap?
I see what you mean now.
Keeping the gas and combustion deposits out of the oil has to work. Of course, so does changing the oil (and SB->SN oil quality). And polyetheramine detergent in the gasoline.
Until this thread, I had not realized that the cylinder wall was being washed with gasoline, but it must have been because that's what a choke essentially does, and certainly what the accelerator pump did.
Fair enough. But if someone can't just tell me the answer, then that just means one or both of two things.
If the answer can't be summarized *accurately*, then it's not known. So if I look it up, I'll just find out the same thing that everyone else already found out - which is that it's too complex to summarize accurately.
Which was my point.
I'm with you on the exhaust. It's a non-maintenance part nowadays. But we *all* had to deal with exhaust in the days of yore.
So kudos to the EPA for forcing stainless steel into the mix!
PS: I wonder how "Midas Muffler" stays afloat?
You're talking to Clare, but I also reduced my rear camber from negative 2 degrees to as close to 0 degrees as the adjustment would let me go.
I don't corner like a banshee, so, the positive effect I see is even rear tire wear.
Woo hoo! Gotta love being able to change alignment to suit your needs!
I just wish I could have done that on my own, without paying $100 for someone else to twist a bolt that I could have twisted myself.
I'd never buy one. Built in hefty expense.
FWD serves a purpose from what I was told. I got to ride in a Chevy Lumina about 6 months before anyone saw them. My friend's SIL works for GM and was driving one as part of road testing. He said the main reason for FWD was it can be built for $50 a car less.
Thanks. The way I'll remember it is Caster -> Camber -> Toe.
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