Which pad is "better?" Ceramic or semi-metallic?

>>>>

oh, that's right. the hacks doing maintenance and repair are much more knowledgeable than the people that design and build the things in the first place. silly me - i should have thought about that before.

one has torsional load, one has axial - retard. the sculpted shank you see on the rotary impact bits is a torque limiting feature - just like the design concept behind these things:

[assuming you even /can/ understand the concept behind those things of course...]

coming from a guy that puts a cosmetic paint job ahead of a safety brake repair, it's clear that you don't even know what "delusional" means.

Where did I say that I was actually driving this vehicle on the road? Hint: I'm not. It's sitting in the driveway, waiting for me to finish working on it.

Who's the idiot? that's right, you are!

nate

Silly you should realize that installing a new brake rotor on a new hub with a new screw is very different than removing the same screw from the same rotor and hub after they've been in service for 50K miles or more and sprayed with mud, salty slush, and other such like. Use the right tool for each job, moron.

I know you'll be shocked by this, but they likely don't use penetrating oil at the factory, either. By your "logic" a maintenance and repair person therefore should have no need to have penetrating oil in his toolbox.

WHAT? you really think a neck in a bit is a torque limiting feature? Why would I even want to limit the torque on an impact tool? (and BOTH have torque loads, your bleating to the contrary notwithstanding.)

Also, using a torque stick/impact combo on a lug nut is a sign to me that someone is hurrying way too much. Please use a good calibrated torque wrench on MY vehicles, thankyewverymuch.

It's all part of the same process. Vehicle doesn't get driven on the road again until everything is right. Fluids need to be changed, suspension/steering points need to be greased, a couple wiring issues (corroded battery cables and one tenuous looking connector) related to a leaky battery need to be corrected, headlights need to be upgraded. All the usual stuff when you purchase a "new to you" vehicle. It's all getting done, and I would like to get the jobs done for which I already have purchased the parts/supplies so as to clean out space. Since I don't *need* the vehicle to be able to move more than around the property (although of course, the eventual goal is a safe, 100% roadworthy and reliable machine) for the time being, I don't have a problem doing it this way. Clearly you *think* you know a lot about "doing it right" but don't have a clue about actually putting it into practice.

nate

I'd be willing to bet that the vast majority of Snap-On's customers are certified mechanics. I don't see them really actively marketing to the weekend wrench demographic (nor can most afford Snap-On prices.)

You clearly haven't a clue as to what I do and don't know. It's unbelievable; even when I say you're right you have to argue with me.

nate

you're speaking for yourself. as usual.

i have a very good clue as to what you don't know. [i could hardly not given that you insist on evidencing it all the time.] but it's truly capped by you not knowing who you're responding to. ridiculous idiot.

that's because you're always wrong nate. you're a freakin' clinical idiot. and by your inane, useless and counterfactual roostering about "engineering", you thereby poison and degrade the whole concept of bothering to acquire information as a basis for improvement. you're nothing short of disgraceful and disgusting.

>>>>>>>>

So if I say you're right, but I'm always wrong... then...

um, I don't actually care enough to try to figure out what the f*ck you're trying to say.

To repeat: The looney considers himself a genius overestimating his own knowledge and ability and dismissing all other opinions He regards all others as stupid, dishonest or both. His approach is unfailingly hostile, didactic, pretentious and supercilious. He has a tendency to use complex jargon, often making up words and phrases. He rarely, if ever, acknowledges any error. He relishes talking about his own ideas, theories and imagined accomplishments. He deludes himself into believing that he alone possesses the sacred truth. Jim Beam is demonstrably and overtly in the most desperate conceivable need of professional psychiatric help.

Double-spaced ad hominem.

That's pretty impressive... -----

- gpsman

As expected, the screws for this 06 Sonata came out fine with a hit from a rubber mallet. What I didn't expect was the the rotor would be stuck to the flange thingie but it was. My recommendation is that you get a couple of #10 metric bolts with a 1.25 thread pitch and use that in the retention screw holes to release the rotor in a non-violent way.

You'll find it easier to remove the 17mm bolts holding the caliper adapter if you first take off the clamps holding the brake hose and disk sensor wire.

It is nice when they put those threaded holes in the face of the rotor for just that reason. Jeep was not so kind... when I did mine I had to whack one of the rotors with a mallet from behind which is not nearly as kind to the wheel bearings (which however are fairly easy to replace should I ever need to do so, requiring only one "special" tool, which is simply a large socket which I believe that I already have, should it come to that.) To prevent the rotor sticking in the future, you may want to put a little anti-sleaze on the hub area where it protrudes through the rotor. It's not recommended, but it works. Don't slather it on the hub/rotor interface however as it accomplishes nothing to do so, and the hub/rotor/wheel assembly is supposed to be locked together by the friction generated by the clamping force of the lugs between the wheel/rotor and rotor/hub.

nate

No offense, Nate, but I have never seen any negatives about putting a little antiseize on the hub where it touches the rotor. Makes no sense.

There are often cautions about using lubricants or antiseize on the threads of the lugs, but even that can be done if necessary and if the torque limit is reduced.

i don't suppose it ever occurred that you might be looking at an aftermarket disk and not a jeep disk? no, i thought not.

no, there are very /real/ reasons not to use excess. go ahead and name a couple.

given that the disk load is shear relative to the hub, and that shear is arrested by five honking great lug nuts, exactly how much "locking together" do you think needs to be generated here nate? i'll take your estimate to the nearest order of magnitude.

^ useless idiot

Thanks for the suggestion. Too bad I didn't have anti-seize or anti-sleaze (!) I have done that before. Any info on re-torquing the nuts on these alloy wheel? Thanks.

torque specs are for new fasteners. these are invariably plated, lube misted, and ungalled. rusted, galled and unlubed threads are significant impediments to correct torque - 30% too low axial tension is not uncommon.

use of anti-seize on bolt threads might lead to slightly excess axial tension, but it's more usually within 10% of a real new spec, and in this kind of application, that's within bounds. just slack off by 10% if you're worried, but i'd gauge by how easily the nuts turn just before your torque wrench clicks. if it gradually creeps up to spec, reduce by

10%, but if it suddenly gets there, i'd go full 100% because there's still some galling.

I use anti-sleaze on my doorbell button during elections. If it's a federal election, I use copper anti-sleaze. If it's any other, I use aluminium. If I see utility re-sellers lurking around, I use a mixture of copper and aluminium anti-sleaze with battery acid added, just to make it spicy hot!

I had to sledge hammer off a rotor on my '88 Celebrity. Bearing went shortly after. The rotor hole edges had cut slightly into the lugs and bonded there. About 160k miles on the original rotors. Might have lightly torqued the wheel back on and tried some hard reverse braking, but I didn't think of it then. The hammer was handy. AFAIK the wheel had always been torqued on to spec, so the clamping force was overcome by years of braking.

--Vic

even forward usually works.

This is good news. I'll have to pick up a tube or tub. I got some things I want to take care of...

I do it too, but am very careful not to get any on the seats. I just felt it necessary to throw in the standard disclaimer, as most shop manuals will warn you against doing so.

nate