1993 Prizm (Toyota Corolla) Will not start

I don't think it needs to be as complex as you first start out. Autozone's free guide doesn't include schematics for the Corolla, but it's useful for other referneces. You can go to Pep Boys and check the Haynes manual or use the online 93 Camry as a guide.

Check the 15A EFI fuse and 100A ALT link, I think those are upstream of the fuel pump relay, at least on a Camry.

What do you mean when you say that you "read out the relay?"

How did you check the circuit opening relay? If you used a scan tool, the best way to check a relay is with a multimeter, checking both the control and controlled side of the relay.

Start by checking all of the fuses, fusible links, and relays, including the one under the driver's side of the dashboard and the one under the hood.

The circuit opening relay controls the fuel pump while the engine is cranking. If it is bad, the fuel pump will not be energized.

I did a cintunuity check with it energized and unenergized, you know with a volt meter

I did a cintunuity check with it energized and unenergized, you know with a volt meter

************ With the relay energized, did you have continuity between the two terminals on the controlled side?

Is there 12 volts at the socket for the circuit opening relay when the engine is cranking?

When you got the spark under the dash, you probably blew a fuse or fusible link somewhere. Did you check every fuse?

I did use a multi meter, I checked it while energized and unenergized. You are to addressing the no spark issue, I feel that they are related. I have pretty much ruled out the circuit opening relay. What one component can cause both symptoms: no spark no power to the fuel pump? And also remember, my check engine light does not work, the circuit opening relay can not cause that. What do you think about it being the timing module?

I did use a multi meter, I checked it while energized and unenergized. You are to addressing the no spark issue, I feel that they are related. I have pretty much ruled out the circuit opening relay. What one component can cause both symptoms: no spark no power to the fuel pump? And also remember, my check engine light does not work, the circuit opening relay can not cause that. What do you think about it being the timing module?

************* It would help me help you a lot if you stuck to one thread. It took a while for me to catch on that you also posted about the spark under the dash and whether the ECM is good.

I apologize if I go over some of the same questions over and over, but it helps if I am clear on what you are finding and how you tested or checked something, and it helps if you answer my questions directly.

When you say that there is no power to the fuel pump, did you check for voltage at the fuel pump connector while cranking the engine? Just having the ignition switch in the on position does not provide power to the fuel pump.

When you say that the check engine light does not work, is this with the ignition switch is on with the motor off?

I can think of three things off the top of my head that would cause no power at the fuel pump and no spark - the EFI main relay and fuse and the ECM.

You mentioned in the other thread that you got a spark under the dash when you were removing the radio. Is the factory wiring harness cut or damaged?

Did you find what sparked and repair the exposed wire?

Ray O

I am pleased that you are trying to help me, so please do not think that I am being short with you, I am not meaning to sound that way.

Yes I have checked for voltage at the fuel pump while cranking, I am not even getting the initial voltage at the pump when I first turn the key to Accessories.

The check engine light never comes on, under any conditions. It used to when I turned the key to on without the engine running

You mentioned the EFI relay and fuse, I have checked those and they are good. I do feel that the ECM must have a power source that has a fuse or something in it that is bad, because the likely hood of putting two ECM's in with the identical problem are slim.

The factory wire harness is not cut, it is perfectly intact.

I did find the exposed wire, and have corrected it. But as you can see, I am way passed being concerned about that wire, I have removed the radio from the car.

Ironically, my dad is coming to visit, and he has a 97 Toyota Corolla. What we plan on doing is swapping relays from his to mine until it hopefully starts. His an automatic, so swapping the ECM if we were to get that far is out of the question. But the relays should all be the same.

I will keep you posted,

T

I don't want to be 'difficult' but several people, including Ray, have suggested that you need to check all the fuses, fusible links, and relays, and you seem to be resisting that suggestion. This is clearly a pain on a Toyota since there seem to be fuses and relays all over the place (and maybe fusible links) - but your problem could still be as simple as a blown fuse. Also, as Ray has suggested, maybe you are not getting power to one of those relays that you have been working with. While I can understand your frustration I would think the way to locate this problem is to proceed step by step - it would also help if you had a wiring diagram. I also have some doubts abt swapping relays from a later car into an earlier car unless they you are REALLY REALLY sure they are, in fact, the same relay.

If I had to suggest anything 'concrete' it would be that you are on the right track but you need to be careful not to decide in advance what your 'problem' may be and go step by step and be VERY careful.

Good luck, and let us know how you make out.

I am pleased that you are trying to help me, so please do not think that I am being short with you, I am not meaning to sound that way.

************ No problem, I didn't take it that way at all. I have become used to working with dealer service personnel who have become frustrated when working on a problem, and most of my success came from a fresh set of eyes, a systematic approach to problem-solving, keeping in mind that an engine needs air, fuel, and a source of ignition to run, remembering that E = I x R, and that there are very few one-of-a kindd problems on Toyotas. ************

Yes I have checked for voltage at the fuel pump while cranking, I am not even getting the initial voltage at the pump when I first turn the key to Accessories.

************ There should not be any voltage at the fuel pump when you turn the ignition switch to accessory or to the on position. The only time there should be voltage at the fuel pump is when the engine is cranking or running.

***********

The check engine light never comes on, under any conditions. It used to when I turned the key to on without the engine running

You mentioned the EFI relay and fuse, I have checked those and they are good. I do feel that the ECM must have a power source that has a fuse or something in it that is bad, because the likely hood of putting two ECM's in with the identical problem are slim.

*********** The EFI main relay and fuse supply power to the ECM. With the ignition in the on position, make sure that both the supply and load terminals of the EFI fuse have 12 volts.

With the ignition in the on position, make sure that the control side of the EFI main relay socket in the junction box has 12 volts.

************

The factory wire harness is not cut, it is perfectly intact.

I did find the exposed wire, and have corrected it. But as you can see, I am way passed being concerned about that wire, I have removed the radio from the car.

************* That is excellent news. I have seen people cut wire harnesses, and a problem almost always crops up some time.

**************

Ironically, my dad is coming to visit, and he has a 97 Toyota Corolla. What we plan on doing is swapping relays from his to mine until it hopefully starts. His an automatic, so swapping the ECM if we were to get that far is out of the question. But the relays should all be the same.

I will keep you posted,

T

*********** OEM relays should have a part number screened somewhere on the relay case. Make sure part numbers match before swapping. Some relays in your car have the same part number, so you can also swap relays from your own car.

Good luck!

Ray O

You are "The Man". I figured out why the car would not start. So let me spell it out for you. So my dad shows up, who by all rights is an awesome shade tree mechanic, he swaps all of the relays that are under the hood, checks all of the fuses; when I got home from work today he was in the process of taking the coil off of my car to put his in, we checked it, no good. Then we swapped the timing module, no good. So I decide to start swapping the relays that are on the drivers side kick panel, nothing. So then when putting my dads relays back in his drivers side kick panel, I notice that he seems to have a fuse in a place that I do not. Ahhhhhh, the ECU fuse is missing in my car. So I stick a fuse in, and wala, the car starts, DEH DEH DEH!!!! The way I figure it happened is like this. When I got the spark under my dash, I fried the Circuit Opening Relay but did not know it. SO what I did after the spark was assumed that I had blown a fuse. So I checked all of the fuses and put them back, But where I went wrong is that when I pulled the ECU fuse out to check it, I stuck it in the slot next to where it came from. So after a little bit of reading the Haynes manual I decide that I need to get a new Circuit Openening Relay. So I get the new relay and the car still does not start, Hmmm must be because the ECU is not getting any power because the stinking fuse was missing. LOL. I can not beleive the trouble that I put myself through over a .99 fuse. The plus is, that I have a bunch of extra relays (cost $0.00) and an extra ECM (cost $47.50). And I learned a whole lot about my daughters car. I would like to thank you and the others that took time to see me through my oversight. Thanks guys

"Tony" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@z38g2000hsc.googlegroups.com... On Apr 9, 12:46 am, "Ray O" wrote:

Ray O

You are "The Man". I figured out why the car would not start. So let me spell it out for you. So my dad shows up, who by all rights is an awesome shade tree mechanic, he swaps all of the relays that are under the hood, checks all of the fuses; when I got home from work today he was in the process of taking the coil off of my car to put his in, we checked it, no good. Then we swapped the timing module, no good. So I decide to start swapping the relays that are on the drivers side kick panel, nothing. So then when putting my dads relays back in his drivers side kick panel, I notice that he seems to have a fuse in a place that I do not. Ahhhhhh, the ECU fuse is missing in my car. So I stick a fuse in, and wala, the car starts, DEH DEH DEH!!!! The way I figure it happened is like this. When I got the spark under my dash, I fried the Circuit Opening Relay but did not know it. SO what I did after the spark was assumed that I had blown a fuse. So I checked all of the fuses and put them back, But where I went wrong is that when I pulled the ECU fuse out to check it, I stuck it in the slot next to where it came from. So after a little bit of reading the Haynes manual I decide that I need to get a new Circuit Openening Relay. So I get the new relay and the car still does not start, Hmmm must be because the ECU is not getting any power because the stinking fuse was missing. LOL. I can not beleive the trouble that I put myself through over a .99 fuse. The plus is, that I have a bunch of extra relays (cost $0.00) and an extra ECM (cost $47.50). And I learned a whole lot about my daughters car. I would like to thank you and the others that took time to see me through my oversight. Thanks guys

******* Tony,

You are very welcome! Thank you for sharing the results, and I'm glad to hear that the car is back on the road!