1997 Toyota Corolla Repair

There is no need to drop the transmission oil pan to change the automatic transmission fluid unless the transmission has been badly neglected. Just drain and refill. In case you really want to look under the pan, the bolt torque is 43 inch-pounds and the drain plug torque is 36 foot-pounds.

Go to

click on the repair guides link, and look up your g/f's car. The repair guides are not complete, but they do cover transmission specs and brake jobs.

When replacing brake pads, stick to OEM - the job will go a lot quicker. Make sure the slides and the sleeves that the slide bolts pass through move freely and lube with high temp wheel bearing/disc brake grease or Permatex Anti-Seize.

"Ray O" wrote in news:3_CdnbAk-et5dBfanZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com.

Be extremely careful tightening that tranny drain bolt! It's small and it's VERY easy to overtorque it.

Luckily the bolt threads usually strip first, leaving the pan undamaged. New bolts are a few bucks at the dealer.

And make sure the anti-squeal shims are put back! If you don't have them any more, go buy new ones from the dealer.

Aftermarket pads are sometimes too thick, forcing the mechanic to discard the shims. Then everybody wonders why their brakes squeal...

No anti-seize anywhere around the rubber boots!!!!!!!!

Anti-seize will eat rubber for lunch.

For any rubber parts, use Sil-Glyde, widely available in small tubes at auto parts stores.

I'm gonna need to drop the tranny pan to replace the filter - its been forever since the fluid has been drained and it smells a little singed. Thanks for the torque info, it'll come in handy, and the link to autozone's repair guides. I'll definitely have a look.

Now you said to stick with the OEM brake pads & rotors, but how can I tell which ones came with the car in the first place? Will I be able to find that on autozone.com, or will the parts store know when I go to purchase what I need?

If you are going to remove the transmission oil pan, make sure you get a replacement gasket because the original one will probably leak if you re-use it at 10 years old. While you have the pan off, check the magnets in the bottom of the pan for metal particles and wipe out the pan. Take a look at the screen and clean if necessary. There is no need to replace the screen unless it is damaged. When you replace the pan, tighten the bolts incrementally in a star pattern.

The OEM suppliers for Toyota brakes are Akebono and Aisin. If the parts store does not carry one of those brands, get them from a Toyota dealer. Since you are doing the work yourself, you'll still be ahead.

One thing: I don't think the Autozone's guide covers Toyota after

1997. But you may want to use the 96 one for reference. Also, Autozone bought AllData and advertised that they can print out an instruction sheets (like the ones professional mechanics use) if you purchase parts there.

Use Akebono ProAct ceramic pads (Kragen, Advance Auto, Murrays, Schucks, rockauto.com). Autozone doesn't carry Akebono, unfortunately. These pads are used on Lexus too. They typically last 80-100K miles on Camrys with normal diving. The pad has the marking: AK xxx-xxx FF. I personally wouldn't use the NBK junk if the dealer hands them to me (marking NBK xxx-xxx FF).

As far as brake rotors go, Raybestos red label (now called Aimco-GS) for ~$20 each with Akebono ProAct work fine for me. Why spend more?

ACT562 for Corolla 1.8L: (~$53+shipping rockauto.com)

For ATF kit, I'd just pick up a Fram kit F1162 for 1.8L japan production (~$15+shipping rockauto.com).

I didn't think so either, but I checked prior to giving the link to the OP and found that the 1997 Corolla is covered.

Okay, a new question here, but a continuation of the same subject. I need to take the rear drums off this car, but don't know how to get them loose. Reading up at autozone.com it looks like I can hit the drum with a rubber mallet to loosen it, and if that's not enough I need to loosen the brake adjustment lever to give me some play. That doesn't sound right to me. In all my experience there has always been a spindle nut or a special cap on drums that holds them in place, not just tension from the brakes. But I don't see anything in the manual about that.

When I pulled the rear tires off the car I found an odd-looking cap that covered the drum, and I'm not sure if I have to remove it or not for an install. Any ideas?

If anyone needs I can post a picture to this group to clarify (if pictures can be posted, but I'm not too sure of that one)

Thanks

Andy wrote in news:e2899280-5f4e-49da-b367- snipped-for-privacy@e32g2000prn.googlegroups.com:

Your drum is a slip fit over the hub and lug bolts, in the same manner as most FWD discs.

If you can't get the drum off, you can try using an 8oz steel hammer to lightly and repeatedly tap the drum all around, between the lug bolts and the perimeter of the drum. This will help break up the rust that's holding the drum on to the hub.

Have you released the parking brake?