2004 camry brakes

Measure them for run out and thickness, if they are within specs they ought to be good enough.

Whether you need rotors or not, you can replace pads. And if you do need rotors, you can replace them too.

The determining factor on the rotors is if they are still smooth. If they have small ridges, then it's possibly okay to machine them true and flat. When the rotors are removed, there is a MIN thickness specification stamped on the back -- I've wondered for years why this is not on the front where you can see it before taking the rotors off -- and if the rotors are thicker than the MIN spec, and they will still be thicker after machining, then if is safe to have them turned.

Generally speaking, rotors are not turned anymore because of the weight that is pushed around for years and tens of thousands of miles. It is not impossible to turn them, but generally this is a practice that is no longer supported.

Another general rule is that rotors should last through two sets of pads, assuming you change the pads before they are worn so far as to do damage. Rear pads last for two sets of front pads.If this holds up, then you do front pads, then front pads and rotors and rea pads, then front pads, then front and rear pads and rotors. Two sets of front pads to a set of rear pads, and two sets of pads to a set of rotors. Obviously, your mileage may vary, but this is the typical ratio of pads and rotors that I've seen on my cars.

You said you have 110,000 miles on the car, and brakes are good for about

50,000 miles. So, at this point you should be looking at the second set of front pads and a set of rotors, and a set of rear pads. There is no reason a mechanically competent individual cannot put brakes on his own car at home, both pads and rotors. Your budget should be about $50 per rotor, and $50 per set of pads. You can go more or less expensive, but food for thought should put an axle set of pads and rotors at about $150 for parts.

What you need is a strategy for opening the calipers so the new pads will fit inside. Some people used a C-clamp to push the piston back in, but I like to use a prybar to pry the caliper so that the piston is pushed in. If you intend on using the rotors over again, then you have to pry without damaging the rotor surface, which is why people use the c-clamp.

Checking the rotors for grooves and striations is important, If there are deep grooves and a lot of them then you'll be losing braking advantage. If there are few grooves and the rotors are only glazed you may be able to get away with sanding them to get the glaze off. Removing that glaze is important as well to get better braking. I would recommend doing some web searches to get some input to when rotors need to be turned rather then just getting off a glaze. Some folks will tell you one must always turn rotors when fitting new pads, but my experience tells me otherwise. The basic rule I use is not to skimp when it comes to safety.

Measure the thickness or look for a lip around the edge where the pad does not rub. I own/have owned Toyotas and Mercedes/BMWs. The German cars seem to have pads/rotors that will have the rotors wear down to where they need replacing every second brake pad change. The rotor actually wears and generates a lip around the edge (gives you an idea of the wear which can be a lot). Rotors are not turned so much any more because factory finishes are best and they are so easy/inexpensive to just buy new. My Toyota rotors never wore and were never replaced unless there was a wheel shimmy when braking. Changing them is easy when you get the caliper off. My guess is you can skip changing the rotor on your Camry unless it is scored.

That's what I'd do.. Just change the pads yourself if the rotors have enough thickness. I suspect they do at 108k, unless you are hard on brakes and have changed pads before. I'm up to 75k on mine, and I haven't changed anything yet..