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'88 Supra: Problem removing the driveshaft?

Looking at the driveshaft, there appears to be a small problem. This car uses a 2-piece driveshaft; a front 'intermediate' shaft, a center carrier/ bearing, and then the rear shaft. The rear shaft is held in with 8 bolts,

4 bolts attaching it to the differential, and 4 bolts attaching it to a sleeve that mates to splines from the front shaft through the carrier. The front shaft has 4 bolts attaching it to the transmission output shaft, and then the splined shaft that passes through the center carrier. The instructions say to start at the diff, remove the 4 bolts, then remove the center carrier, and then slide the front shaft out of the transmission.

The center carrier has a snapped off bolt; it is held onto the car with one bolt. We can probably either remove this or drill through it and tap new threads into it, but I am nervous about removing the center carrier for fear of snapping the other bolt and rendering the car inoperable.

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And I now see I was wrong. There aren't 4 bolts on the front shaft; in order to remove it, the center carrier needs to come out.

I'm going to start soaking all the bolts in lubricating oil today and for the next week. Anybody see any way to replace the front 'Spider' (U- joint) without removing the center carrier?

Reply to
hach
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You have to remove it to get the intermediate shaft out. I think that's why they said to start at the differential and work forward. Drop the rear shaft from the differential, slide it out, remove the center bearing and take the intermediate out. It's always better to get the shafts out to work on, on a press.

I would as I mentioned before, mark the shafts for matching. Even getting as picky as marking to which exact spline tooth the mating yoke spline fits on. I use a fine point scribe. Make good marks. Don't get the yokes mixed up when all is apart. They might be the same part (flange yokes) so mark them good.

As far as removing that snapped off bolt. If you can grab a bit of it try using a torch to heat around it first and then work inward to the stud. You might have to get it cherry red to back it out. It's kind of trial and error, a bit of experience helps.

If you have to drill it out, use a carbide drill, centerpunch the stud first, drill it, and try an easy out. They are always a pain.

Good luck!

Reply to
user

Thanks! Yeah, this is what I thought. And the TSRM says to mark everything: which spline, how the rear shaft attaches to the diff, etc. And I think I can understand why after getting under there with the Lube this morning and seeing the weights attached to the shaft!

Hopefully that bolt won't be too stubborn and come out. I ain't holding my breath...

Reply to
hachiroku

=?iso-2022-kr?q?=1B=24=29Chachiroku_=0E+O+A+m+/=0F?= wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@ae86.GTS:

Forget penetrant; it's useless.

What is astonishingly effective is heat.

Heat up each bolt in turn good and hot (doesn't have to be cherry red), let them cool, then try removing them again. What I find works wonders is spraying water on each bolt in turn to quickly cool them. The thermal shock seems to very effectively fracture the rust seal that locks everything together. You will probably find you will now also be able to drive out that broken stub with a hammer and sharp drift.

And why wouldn't you just drop the center bearing? It's easy enough.

Reply to
Tegger

Follow TeGGeR's advice on removing the bolts. If you do not have an acetylene torch, try MAPP gas. Matching is very important, and pay attention to the orientation of the U-joints.

AFAIK, just follow the FSM for sequencing.

Reply to
Ray O

I'm afraid of snapping the other one and rendering the car unusable...

Reply to
Hachiroku

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= wrote in news:5PLZj.48$QW.14@trndny04:

Oh, the broken bolt is holding the center bearing in place. Heat therefore isn't practical unless you strip the interior for fear of setting fire to the carpets.

Here's a tip Ive also had luck with: TIGHTEN the bolt slightly before loosening it. And even if you snap the head off, you can still drill out the remnant.

Reply to
Tegger

Ya know, that's what I was just thinking this morning! No, we don't want to burn the carpets. I know someone that did just that!

And the bolt isn't holding anythin, the head is snapped right down into the threads!

I usually soak them with penetrating oil, and then tighten and loosen slowly, trying not to heat the bolt too much (that leads to snapping...)

Works about 75% of the time. the other 25%....

Reply to
Hachiroku

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