Anybody know how trivial it is to remove the throttle body and clean
it out? I've seen pictures and it appears cleaning it should be
pretty straight forward. How about removing it? I'm not exactly a
mechanic, but I have cleaned my MAF which was simple. I also cleaned
this black circular thing that the throttle cable I guess ran
through? Made a difference.
Anyway, would love advice on how hard that job might be.
If I took to the dealer, how much do you think they'd charge?
Thanks for insight.
You do not need to remove the throttle body to clean it. The black circular
thing that the throttle cable attaches to is sometimes called a bell crank.
From the MAF sensor, follow the black plastic tubing toward the engine. The
tubing will be connected to the throttle body, which is silver in color and
which should have the bell crank that the throttle cable is attached to.
Loosen the bolts or nuts (probably 10 mm) that hold the black plastic tubing
on to the throttle body and pull the tubing out of the way or remove it.
Spray some carburetor cleaner into the opening of the throttle body and wipe
out the inside of the throttle body. Rotate the bell crank by hand while
looking inside the throttle body. You will see a circular plate pivoting
the middle and expose the back side of the plate. Spray the back side of
the plate and the rod that the plate pivots on and wipe out. While you are
at it, wipe out as much of the inside of the throttle body as you can.
Replace the black plastic tubing and start the car. You will get some
pretty large clouds of smoke until the carb cleaner burns off.
A dealership will probably charge 1/2 or 1 hour labor plus materials to
clean the throttle body.
BTW, why do you want to clean the throttle body? Is the throttle pedal
sometimes hard to depress? If so, a TB cleaning is in order. If there is
another symptom, describe them so you won't be wasting your time.
On Aug 20, 11:00 pm, "Ray O"
Actually, accelerator seems fine. A year or so ago, I had some odd
idling problems which ended up being due to a leaking/cracked fuel
injector but not before I learned of other things that cause odd
idle. For instance, lately when stopped at a red light (this is an
automatic) I noticed the car wanted to 'go' a little more than I
thought it should.
So I got home and checked the 'bell crank' and it looked very dirty
and gummy. Cleaned it up and figured I would clean the MAF too --
which was dirty -- and wow, throttle response got better, car didn't
seem to want to 'go' at a stop, and it idled so quiet I thought the
car was dead at the stop light! By the way, I know an automatic
obviously goes when you let off the gas but there was a difference
between a creep forward and a good forward motion... it now barely
creeps forward which is how it was when I first bought it.
So then I figured I might as well clean the throttle body while I was
But yes, acceleration/idle all seems perfect so as you suggest,
perhaps it's not worth doing. When it's not broke... probably not
I'm not sure what you mean by "induction cleaner," but the factory repair
manual specifies carburetor cleaner.
I know that some automakers coat the inside of the throttle body with
something that can be damaged by carburetor cleaner, but Toyota is not one
The throttle plate can stick in the closed position, making it difficult to
depress the accelerator pedal. When this happens, a throttle body cleaning
takes care of the sticky throttle.
There is also an idle air control valve on the throttle body that controls
how much air gets past the closed throttle plate. The IAC valve sometimes
gets gummed up, causing rough idle, and a shot of carb cleaner should free