Interior Trim Panel removal and installation

Yes.

I have a 02 Haynes manual.

The headliner is a LOT more work. Generally, all 8 of the side pillars trim has to come off, which would be the A, B, C, and D left and right pillar trim, plus the windshield and rear hatch trim. Before you tacke that, you have to remove the assist grips and courtesy/dome lights and de-activate the side air bags.

I doubt if you can get the exact fit for those buttons. The cost from a dealer is probably closer to $1.50 each.

Thanks Ray, As a follow up - does disconnecting the battery cause the loss of all codes and settings - from engine to radio? How difficult or simple is it to restore this?

MO

Yes, however, note that disconnecting the battery does not immediately de-energize the supplemental restraint system, commonly referred to as air bags. The SRS is designed this way because the vehicle battery is often damaged in a collission so it needs another source of power to ignite the squibs.

The radio is simple to restore - just write down the pre-set radio stations before you disconnect the battery. If you have programmed a theft deterrent code in the radio, you should make sure you know it BEFORE you disconnect the battery or lose power, otherwise, you will have to pay a dealer for the universal unlock code

It is not necessary to do anything special to the powertrain electronic control module (ECM) if power is lost.

There are other vehicle systems that may or may not be affected by disconnecting the battery - you should check your service manual, TSBs, or your local Toyota service department if the following are affected - vehicle theft deterrent system, keyless entry system, immobilizer system, automatic headlights/daytime running lights, and Homelink system.

Just curious... Why do you want to drop the headliner? Dropping headliners is a huge pain, even without side curtain air bags. Professional technicians cringe at the thought of having to drop headliners, and Toyota developed a special technique to install roof racks without having to drop the headliners. In 35 years of messing with cars I have managed to avoid the need to drop the headliner. Unless you prefer self-inflicted brain damage and you would like to introduce tears, stains, sags, rattles, and creaks into your headliner, I recommend finding another way to accomplish whatever it is you want to accomplish.

Have nothing except std keys - with the push button to unlock.

I'm using whatever factory settings it came with. So it would NOT default to those?

It is a special antenna so I can communicate with people in outer space . It is a great benefit if the ant. is located symmetrically on the vehicle or else I need to boost power significantly.

If it were simple then a quick look see would be good for future reference - since there is no doubt both plumbing for the rear ac and el circuits galore.

MOONBAT!!!! ;)

The keyless entry may need re-programming.

Some systems need to be re-initialized after power loss, which is done by the dealership as part of the pre-delivery service.

If you want to install a roof-mounted antenna, my advice would be to drill from above with a drill-stop collar and then snake the cable through the headliner without dropping the entire headliner.

Sounds like the best route to go - IF I go that route.

Clearly one should avoid changing or disconnecting the battery at just about all cost. If an owner puts in a new battery will the car even start or drive to the nearest dealer to be reprogrammed?

Typical cost for this - one hr?

Can one remove panels carefully without removing the battery first?

Yes. You can probably replace the battery with few or no ill effects if you re-connect the power in a reasonable time.

It depends on the shop's minimum charge. Actual time is probably about 15 minutes.

It depends on which panels. Do not disturb any bright yellow wires - they are for the SRS. You can probably remove B, C, and D pillar panels without any problem. Since you mentioned outer space, I suspect that you are installing a satellite radio antenna. I am not that familiar with the properties of a satellite radio antenna, but I've noticed that most OEM installations of satellite radio antennas are centered left-right above the rear window, so centering the antenna in the roof may not be necessary for good reception. If you install a magnetic or stuck-on antenna above the rear hatch, you can snake the wire under the trim and down the D-pillar and then under the carpet to the dashboard. Note that if you drill the body, you break the factory paint job and give rust another place to form, even if you carefully touch up the edges of the hole and apply rustproofing on the interior surface with a special application wand. A magnetic or stuck-on antenna will preserve the factory paint job.

Ray alluded that you want to perhaps install a Satellite antenna (I was only kidding with my Moonbat comment!)

Is this for XM/Sirius, or do you have a Satellite dish for an on-board video system?

Instead of going through all the trouble of REMOVING everything, what size wire are you trying to run? If it is an XM antenna then the wire is very thin; snaking it along the trim panels on the inside of the car, and then running it out one of the windows is the easiest way. Or, go out the back hatch or the side door and onto the roof.

I personally don't like drilling panels; in an extreme case the panel can rip in case of a collision.

If you're running a Coax, a similar method can be taken, run the wire just inside the trim panels (there is usually PLENTY of room!) and then snake it through the headliner to the exit point at the entertainment system. This is certainly MUCH easier that removing the headliner!

If you nee to drill a hole, remove the trim panels in the rear and try to locate a point to drill where you don't have to yank out the HL.

As long as you are careful, you shouldn't have to disconnect the battery; at the most pulling a couple fuses should be sufficient.

Just be careful, if you don't disconnect the battery, to not drill through any wiring! It will all be bundled anyway, just avoid the bundles!

If you could provide a little more info, we may be able to offer more specific help!

Also, if you have a roof rack, and the wiring is thin enough, you may be able to route through there. Use shrink tubing or electrical tape for extra insulation!

The ABCD is that a designation for each side - A being front and D being the rear of the four pillars on each side? So the two front windshield As - contain the goodies (to avoid) as I understand it.

Any rear AC or heating tubes above seat height (say 18" above floor) anywhere?

It is two way radio with CB like characteristics and a coax like ant. connection. The roof rack mag mount are distant alternatives.

Sorry, yes, on your van, "A" is the windshield pillar, "B" is the pillar between the front door and the sliding door, "C" is the pillar that is rearward of the sliding door, and "D" is the pillar at the back. In the case of a sedan, there are usually just A, B, and C pillars, and in a coupe or hardtop, just A and B.

Check a repair manual to be sure, but I believe that there is an air bag in the A pillar, while the side curtain air bags reside at the edge of the headliner.

If you have rear AC in an overhead console like the Previa, then there are probably AC lines running up one of the B pillars to the ceiling or wherever the rear evaperator is.

If you are going to transmit, then my understanding is that ground plane becomes a factor. If you use a mounting system like the one in this link

then here are some steps you should take: Remove any courtesy lights in the headliner so that you can pull the headliner down a little bit while drilling the hole from above. When you insert the coax, use an electrician's fish tape or stiff wire to snag the coax and feed it to the closest pillar, then remove the pillar cover trim and snake down. Be sure to apply a generous coating of touch-up paint to any bare metal exposed when drilling. Good luck!