ALARM install info for nissan 89-98 240sx

CAR SECURITY INSTALLATION GUIDE
1989-1998 Nissan 240SX
WARNING! Alarm installs should only be attempted by experienced security
installers only. Information presented is without any representation of warranty. It is the responsibility of the installer to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Proper installation remains the responsibility of the installer.
DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY IF THE VEHICLE HAS AN ANTI-THEFT CODED RADIO. IF EQUIPPED WITH AN AIRBAG AVOID DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY IF POSSIBLE. MANY AIRBAG SYSTEMS WILL DISPLAY A DIAGNOSTIC CODE THROUGH THEIR WARNING LIGHT AFTER THEY LOSE POWER. DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY REQUIRES THIS CODE TO BE ERASED. THIS MAY CAUSE UNNECESSARY TRIPS TO THE DEALER FOR SERVICE.
BEFORE BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION:
-READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS!
-Consider locations for the control unit, siren, LED, shock sensors, etc. before permanently installing them
-Consider what options will be installed
-Turn off the dome light or remove the dome light fuse. This prevents draining the battery.
-Roll down a window to avoid being accidentally locked out of the vehicle.
-Protect the vehicle by using floor mats, seat covers, and fender covers.
-Make sure you have all necessary accessories for the installation
-SPDT relays (often needed for starter disable, dome light supervision, trunk release, and other options.)
-Door lock interface module
-Door lock actuators (one per door if the vehicle is without power door locks)
TOOLS REQUIRED:
-Digital Multimeter
-Wire cutters/ strippers
-Soldering iron
-Cordless power drill
-Nut drivers or socket set
-Drill bit set, 1/2" Unibit
-Phillips head screwdriver
-Panel removal tool
-Razor blades
-Droplight
(Other tools may be required for some installations)
WIRING THE ALARM AND MAKING YOUR CONNECTIONS
-What makes or breaks an alarm is the installation. The best alarms on the market will not properly protect a vehicle if they are poorly installed. All components MUST be properly and securely mounted.
-Proper planning must be made for how wires will be routed throughout the vehicle. Wires should be carefully wrapped to match the vehicle's wiring.
-Connections should only be made by crimp connectors or solder connections. When properly performed, both connections are reliable and trouble free.
-When soldering, use a drop cloth to prevent solder drips and burns on the vehicle's carpeting
-Make sure connections are mechanically sound and insulated.
-Make certain that wires cannot be shorted to the chassis at any point.
-Cheap electrical tape is not a reliable insulator.
-It often falls off in hot weather.
-Use good-quality electrical tape; such as 3M, or heat shrink tubing
-Never twist-and-tape wires together without soldering
-Never use "fuse taps".
-They can be easily defeated
-They can damage fuse box terminals
-Avoid using T-taps, especially in high current connections.
-Poor connections offer high resistance and create many problems.
ATTENTION: Use caution when cutting the look of the ignition harness in this vehicle. The airbag wires are located in the ignition harness. Do not cut into them.
WIRING INFORMATION: 1989-1994 Nissan 240SX WIRE WIRE COLOR LOCATION 12V CONSTANT WHITE Ignition harness 12V IGNITION BLACK/RED Ignition harness STARTER BLACK/YELLOW Ignition harness PARKING LIGHTS (+) RED/BLUE Back of dash dimmer switch POWER LOCK (one wire) ORANGE/BLACK Driverís kick panel POWER UNLOCK (one wire) Same as lock Driverís kick panel DOOR TRIGGER/ DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION (-) RED/WHITE Courtesy light TRUNK TRIGGER (-) RED Switch or light in trunk RADIO CONSTANT RED/BLACK Radio RADIO SWITCHED BLUE Radio GROUND Not in radio harness Must ground to chassis FACTORY AMP TURN ON LT.GREEN Radio LEFT FRONT (+) BLUE/WHITE Radio LEFT FRONT (-) BLUE/YELLOW Radio LEFT REAR (+) RED Radio LEFT REAR (-) DARK GREEN Radio RIGHT FRONT (+) BROWN Radio RIGHT FRONT (-) BROWN/WHITE Radio RIGHT REAR (+) BLUE Radio RIGHT REAR (-) PINK Radio
NOTE:
--For door locks, send a negative pulse to unlock, disconnect wire to lock. See wiring diagram and info in notes below.
WIRING INFORMATION: 1995-1998 Nissan 240SX
WIRE WIRE COLOR LOCATION 12V CONSTANT WHITE Ignition harness 12V IGNITION BLACK/RED Ignition harness STARTER BLACK/YELLOW Ignition harness PARKING LIGHTS (+) RED/BLUE Ignition harness POWER LOCK (-) LT.GREEN/WHITE Anti-theft module or driverís kick panel POWER UNLOCK (-) BROWN Anti-theft module or driverís kick panel DOOR TRIGGER/DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION (-) RED/WHITE Harness in driverís kick panel HOOD TRIGGER (-) YELLOW/BLACK Anti-theft unit or switch TRUNK TRIGGER (-) RED Anti-theft unit or light in trunk FACTORY ALARM ARM (-) LT.GREEN/RED Anti-theft unit FACTORY ALARM DISARM (-) GREEN/YELLOW Anti-theft unit RADIO CONSTANT RED/BLACK Radio RADIO SWITCHED BLUE Radio GROUND Not in radio harness Must ground to chassis FACTORY AMP TURN ON LT.GREEN Radio LEFT FRONT (+) BLUE/WHITE Radio LEFT FRONT (-) BLUE/YELLOW Radio LEFT REAR (+) RED Radio LEFT REAR (-) DARK GREEN Radio RIGHT FRONT (+) BROWN Radio RIGHT FRONT (-) BROWN/WHITE Radio RIGHT REAR (+) BLUE Radio RIGHT REAR (-) PINK Radio
NOTE:
-The anti-theft module is located just above the hood release cable in the drivers kick panel
-For parking lights, there are 2 RED/BLUE wires in the ignition harness. One is for the parking lights and the other is for the right headlight.
-If the vehicle is not equipped with an anti-theft module, the RED trunk trigger wire is located in a harness at the left trunk hinge.
INSTALLATION SEQUENCE:
ALL ALARM COMPONENTS MUST BE MOUNTED SECURELY
WARNING! Do not use a 12V test light to locate or test any wires! A test light may cause serious damage to vehicle electronics. Only use a digital multimeter to test circuits.
1. CONTROL UNIT
-Install the control unit securely in a safe, dry place inside the vehicle.
-Never install the control unit under the hood.
-The control unit should be mounted in a suitable location that would be difficult for a potential thief to located, but allow for convenient installation position. Do not mount the control unit in the way of any moving parts
-Do not mount the control unit near any heat sources.
-Mount the control unit in a way that it does not vibrate or rattle.
-Avoid installing the unit anywhere easily visible under the driver's side dash. The first place a thief will go when attempting to steal a car is the driver's side under dash to access the starter and ignition wires. If the control unit is easily visible, it can be disconnected and defeated during a theft attempt.
-Some good locations are above or behind the glove box, under the center console, above the under dash fuse box, or in the dash behind the radio.
-For maximum remote range, mount the control unit high under the dash and as far away as possible from metal.
2. ANTENNA
-The position and location of the antenna will affect remote control range.
-Do not shorten or lengthen the antenna
-Route the antenna wire away from the control unit
-Avoid running the antenna along any wire harnesses
-Keep the antenna and control unit as far away from metal as possible
3. WIRES FROM THE CONTROL UNIT
-Wires should be carefully run from the control unit to each component.
-Wires should be wrapped in electrical tape, split loom, or plastic tubing to match the look of the factory wires.
-Wires should be run alongside factory wires to make the wires look as if they came that way from the factory.
4. SIREN.
-Running the siren wire from the alarm brain inside the car to the siren under the hood should be carefully considered. Unlike an amplifier power wire, the siren wire is relatively small gauge, which makes using an existing hole through the firewall a good option.
-The best method is to examine the firewall to locate an existing hole that the factory wiring is routed through. If the grommet is large enough, you can share this opening with your alarm wires.
-Most vehicles have plugs that cover existing holes in the firewall. You can drill through the plug to create a grommet to pass the alarm wires through.
-An alternate method, if an existing hole cannot be found, is to drill a hole in the firewall. Be certain not to drill through any fluid lines or factory cables. Use a plastic grommet to protect the wires from being cut by the metal edge of the drilled holes.
-The siren must be mounted securely under the hood.
-Mount it away from any heat sources or moving parts
-Mount the siren where the siren cannot be seen or reached from below the vehicle
-Point the siren down to avoid water collecting in it.
-Protect and conceal wiring by wrapping it with split loom or vinyl tubing and routing it alongside factory wiring.
-Always run the wire into the vehicle through a grommet. Do not run the wire through bare metal.
-If a factory grommet is not available, carefully drill a hole and install a snap grommet.
-Take care in drilling through the firewall or mounting the siren to the firewall. In some cars, fuel lines and wire harnesses run on either side of the firewall.
5. CONSTANT POWER AND GROUND
Constant 12V
-There are two possible sources from which to supply the security system with constant power.
-The (+) terminal of the battery may be used. It is strongly recommended that if the battery is used to supply power, that the terminal NOT be disconnected. Make connections by removing lug nut from cable clamp without detaching clamp
-The constant 12V supply of the ignition switch may be used.
-Always fuse within 12 inches of this connection.
-Fuse accordingly.
-Chassis ground
-Connect this wire to bare metal, preferably with a factory bolt rather than your own screw.
-Screws tend to either strip or loosen with time.
-Ground all components to the same point.
-If a screw must be used, connect chassis ground to bare metal and use a star washer to ensure a proper ground connection. Check for clearance on both sides before drilling
6. 12V IGNITION WIRE
-Connect the system's ignition input wire to a main ignition wire.
-The ignition wire is often found in the harness coming from the key cylinder.
-This wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position.
-This wire powers the ignition system and the fuel delivery system.
-To find 12V ignition with a multimeter:
1. Set meter to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire with the (+) probe. The steering column harness or ignition harness is an excellent place to find this wire.
4. Turn the ignition key to the run position. If your meter reads 12V go to the next step
5. Turn the key to the start position. The meter should remain steady. If it drops close to or all the way to zero, that is not the correct wire. Go back to step 3. If it stays steady at 12V that is the ignition wire.
7. STARTER KILL RELAY
-The starter kill relay should be ran away from the steering column
-The starter kill relay should not be easily visible upon removing the under dash panel
-Solid wire connections must be made. For maximum dependability, solder and shrink tube the connections.
-Wires should be wrapped in 3M electrical tape or plastic tubing to match the factory wiring.
-Locate the starter wire.
-The starter wire provides 12V directly to the starter or a relay controlling the starter.
-The starter wire is often found in the harness coming from the key cylinder.
-To find the starter wire with your multimeter:
1. Set your meter to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the starter wire with the (+) probe.
4. Turn the key to the start position. If the meter reads 12V go to the next step
5. Cut the wire you suspect of being the starter wire
6. Attempt to start the car. If the starter engages, reconnect it and go back to step 3.If the starter does not engage, that is the correct wire.
NOTE: For systems that do not come pre-wired for a starter kill, use a relay and wire as shown:
8. LED STATUS INDICATOR
-The LED should be installed in a place visible from both sides and the rear of the vehicle
-It is best to install the LED on a small removable panel like a blank switch or dash bezel.
-Check for clearance on both sides before any drilling.
-Use quick-disconnects near the LED if the panel is removable. This allows the panel to be removed without having to cut wires
9. ALARM OVERRIDE SWITCH
-Care must be given to mounting the alarm override switch since just by hotwiring the ignition and flicking the switch, a thief can disarm the alarm and steal the car.
-The alarm override switch should be mounted in someplace hidden but convenient.
-Good locations include behind the hood release lever, inside the ashtray opening, inside the center console (where it can't be accidentally bumped), or in the glove box.
-Before drilling, check for clearance on both sides.
10. SHOCK SENSOR
-The shock sensor should be securely mounted underneath the dash.
-Use double sided tape or a wire tie to secure it to an air duct, wire harness, or trim panel.
-Avoid mounting it in the way of any moving parts or relays.
-Avoid mounting it near any heat sources.
-Avoid mounting it to the steering column or screwing it to metal, as it will cause poor sensitivity
11. DOOR TRIGGER/DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION
-Nissans use a (-) door pin trigger. This means when the door is open; the switch sends a negative voltage to the dome light circuit.
-The door trigger wire can usually be found in these cars in a harness of wires in the driverís kick panel running towards the rear of the car.
-To find the dome light wire with your multimeter:
-To find the (-) dome light wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (+) probe to 12V constant
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire with the (-) lead
4. The meter should indicate 12V with the door open if you have found the correct wire
5. The meter will then read 0V when the door closed.
-NOTE: For dome light supervision connect the alarm's dome light supervision output as shown below.
12. PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT
-Nissans use a (+) parking light circuit. Connecting to this wire will flash the parking lights when the alarm is armed or disarmed or when the alarm is triggered.
The (+) parking light wire is often found in a harness of wires running from the steering column
NOTE: Factory airbag wires also run from the steering column. They are often tagged and marked in yellow tape or tubing. DO NOT CUT INTO THEM.
-To find the parking light wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire
4. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows 12V, turn off the parking lights and make sure it goes back to zero.
5. If it does return to zero, turn the parking lights back on, and turn the dimmer up and down. If the meter changes more than a volt when using the dimmer, look for another wire. If it stays relatively close to 12V, that is the correct wire.
NOTE: If the alarm only has a (-) parking light output, use a relay and wire as shown:
13. TRUNK TRIGGER WIRE
-Nissans have a light in the trunk that comes on when the hatch is opened. If this is the case, most alarms have a separate input for a hood pin or trunk pin that can be hooked to the trunk trigger wire to set off the alarm if the trunk is opened.
-This wire can often be found at the light in the trunk or in a harness in one of the kick panels leading towards the rear of the car.
-To find the trunk pin trigger wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (+) probe to 12V constant
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the trunk trigger wire with the (-) lead
4. The meter should indicate 12V with the trunk open if you have found the correct wire
5. The meter will then read 0V when the trunk is closed.
NOTE: Most alarms have a separate input for a trunk trigger. If not, the trunk trigger can be hooked up to the door trigger input. Diode isolate as shown below.
14. HOOD TRIGGER WIRE
-Nissans use a (-) hood pin trigger. This means when the hood is open; the switch sends a negative voltage to the BCM.
-The hood trigger wire can usually be found in these cars at the factory hood pin switch or at the BCM.
-To find the (-) hood pin wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (+) probe to 12V constant
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the hood trigger wire with the (-) lead
4. The meter should indicate 12V with the hood open if you have found the correct wire
5. The meter will then read 0V when the hood is closed.
NOTE: Most alarms have a separate input for a hood trigger. If not, diode isolate and connect in with the trunk trigger input or the door trigger input
15. DOOR LOCK WIRES
-Nissans 240SXs with factory power door locks use a one-wire door lock system that unlocks the doors with a negative pulse and lock the doors when the door lock wire is cut.
-To find the door unlock wire with your multimeter on vehicles with a one wire system:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door lock wire
4. When the switch is at rest, the meter should read 12V
5. Lock the door with the switch. The meter should read 0V or close to it. If it does, that is the correct wire.
-To find the door lock wire with your multimeter:
1. Find the door unlock wire
2. Cut the door unlock wire.
3. If the doors lock when that wire is cut, that is the correct wire.
4. A relay needs to be wired to interface this type of system as shown below.
-Nissans with factory power door locks are negative (-) triggered. The door lock switch will have 3 wires on it, and one will test ground all the time. One wire will pulse ground when the switch locks the doors and the other wire will pulse ground when the switch unlocks the doors.
-In most cases these wires can be found in one of the kick panels.
-To find the door lock wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door lock wire
4. When the switch is at rest, the meter should read 12V
5. Lock the door with the switch. The meter should read 0V or close to it. If it does, that is the correct wire.
-To find the door unlock wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DC voltage
2. Attach the (-) probe to chassis ground
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door unlock wire
4. When the switch is at rest, the meter should read 12V
5. Unlock the door with the switch. The meter should read 0V or close to it. If it does, that is the correct wire.
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