my toyota

I think if you add some gas and then start it up, it might idle a lot better :)

Seriously, could it be a clogged fuel filter as a result of trying to suck in the last remaining dregs and sediment in the bottom of the tank right before it ran out completely? Or maybe the computer did something wierd to really lean out the fuel supply down toward the end and it hasn't reset itself yet? You could always try resetting it by disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes.

I'd try the fuel filter advice first! This is a very good diagnosis, my friend. Tanks do get sediment, and even with all the screens, etc, enough probably got through to clog the filter.

I bought a Nissan 240SX and after about 3 months it started idling rough at times and lost power a high RPMs. I did a complete 'tune up', and after I removed the fuel filter I held it upside-down and MUD was running out of it! That alone probably would have solved the problem, but since I didn't know the history of the car...

Change the fuel filter, WBMA

mike hunt

littletom wrote:

WBMA???

AYM, WBMA

Sean Elk>

Oh, you so funny...

Try Would Be My Advice, perhaps???

Gawddamn spammers

Natalie

Any car made always takes its fuel from the bottom the tank no matter what the fuel level. It could have ruined the electric fule pump in the tank. They depend on fuel in the tank for all of their cooling and lubrication, and it wasent a young pump either.

Shame you didnt teach her to properly operate a vehicle.

yesterday my Airconditing quit running and when it did I could not lower my electric window and I also notice the Tempature gauge quit. The Fuses seem to be oke but I can't tell if it is the relay because the gentleman at the Automobile parts said he wasn't able to test it. He did say a new one cost $12.00. I suggested that was a lot to pay for something if it wasn't the one ythat was bad. I guess you can ascertaine am just a shade tree mechanic. All the dealers are closed until Tues. in the mean time my Toyota runs but its hot on the inside if you can't get the windows to work. Thanks for any help, Gym.

Sorry man, even though I was an electronics engineering tech for 12 years, electric windows throw me! Try reposting your question as a new topic and see if some of our more skilled people can answer.

BTW, it's been 3 years, and I STILL can't put the passenger's window down from the driver's door!

Go back to your local auto parts store and get yourself a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for your car (or visit the local public library) and look up the section on Fuses and Fusible Links, because from your description that's what it sounds like your problem is to me.

You will also need a test light or an inexpensive digital multimeter to track it down for sure, and the repair books should have enough details on the electrical wiring layout of the car to aim you in the right direction - I hope...

I'd start by looking that there is power getting to all the fuses in the fuseblock at the right times, since some of them are switched with the Accessory circuit from the ignition key. If the ones that are supposed to be constant are all dead, that's a fusible link. If the ones that are switched are all dead with the key on or off, that might mean the ignition switch is bad, or one of the Accessory circuit main relays is bad or not getting power to the coil.

Do NOT spend a lot of money on new parts like relays until you follow the trouble with the right diagnostic tool (in this case a multimeter) and you are pretty sure what's wrong. Guessing and "throwing new parts at it" until you find the right one gets very expensive very fast, and even some "pro" mechanics are guilty.

When you lose multiple systems like AC, power windows, fans and gauges all at the same time, that's either a popped fusible link or a

100A plus 'main fuse' at the fuseblock. It could also be a bad ground connection to the body, but those systems are too diverse for one bad connection to kill them all.

Your car has several fusible links attached to the positive battery post terminal, they are a special low melting temperature wire that pops just like a fuse to protect the car's wiring harness. You can tell them apart because they usually have a slippery silicone rubber insulation on the wire, the ring terminal at the battery terminal has a molded plastic boot, and there's another molded boot where it splices to the regular wire of the car's harness.

The fusible links are not supposed to pop unless there is a short circuit or major overload on the wiring, so do NOT jumper around them with regular wire and no fuse in the line. For temporary repairs, you can get a Mega Fuse holder that takes up to 60-amp blade fuses, and then don't turn on too many things at once. The repair books should have a chart on the current limits for various wire sizes.

If you tie a wire with an intermittent short straight to the battery without a fuse or fusible link, it might be fine now (no sparks) but can easily light the car wiring on fire when you drive over a bump and that wire grounds out again... This is very bad.

You can change bad fusible links yourself with a same-size replacement from the auto parts store, but you have to be careful to splice the ends a certain way with special barrel crimp connectors to make a very low resistance connection - if the wire gets hot at the crimps, it will blow prematurely. Read the instructions.

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